stripped out grip screw update

jsha22lr

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So i talked to the gun smith after having put it off for some time about getting the grip screw fixed. He said that it can be fixed, but the best way to get it fixed would be to talk to S&W and see I can return it to them and get a new rifle. The only thing I have against this is that I have put a 3# trigger in the gun and I have "misplaced" the original trigger and I'm afriad that S&W will replace the trigger and the pistol grip and stock I've put on the rifle.

Does any body think that S&W will replace the trigger and stuff and not put them in the rifle? I can put the original stock and grip back on, but not the trigger. I can due with not having the rifle for a few weeks.
 
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Not sure about S&W but i sent a ruger 10\22 back to Ruger and they sent me a brand new gun with the trigger kit in a bag. I know this doesnt help but its the only experience ive had close to it.

I would think that as good as S&W is with customer service that you would have no problem. Id send a letter stating the info on your trigger so that you will get it back. Just my $.02
 
The lower is a "Firearm" and is serialized. I highly doubt S&W will replace it because it has to be done through an FFL.

Yes the lower is the "firearm" as it is the serialized part but S&W is the manufacturer and hold a special position. This is why transport of a firearms is allowed between the manufacturer and owner post sale for warranty work without going through an FFL holder.
 
Yes the lower is the "firearm" as it is the serialized part but S&W is the manufacturer and hold a special position. This is why transport of a firearms is allowed between the manufacturer and owner post sale for warranty work without going through an FFL holder.

I thought that the condition for this being ok is that the serial # belongs to the customer. i would imagine a new lower with new serial MAY have to go to an FFL as it is a different weapon.
 
From what I'm understanding the lower would have to go through a ffl, since it would be a new serial number rather than the old one. wich would mean it would have to be filled out paperwork wise and stuff like that right?
 
Yes the lower is the "firearm" as it is the serialized part but S&W is the manufacturer and hold a special position. This is why transport of a firearms is allowed between the manufacturer and owner post sale for warranty work without going through an FFL holder.

But changing out lowers (changing out Serial Numbers) would have to go through an FFL. I'm not saying S&W can't do this, they are most likely set up to handle the paper work, but not all manufacturers will do it.
 
You're right, not all manufacturers WILL do it, but they CAN and are legally allowed to.


Title 27, Part 478.124
Firearms transaction record.
(a) A licensed importer, licensed manufacturer, or licensed dealer shall not sell or otherwise dispose, temporarily or permanently, of any firearm to any person, other than another licensee, unless the licensee records the transaction on a firearms transaction record, Form 4473: Provided, That a firearms transaction record, Form 4473, shall not be required to record the disposition made of a firearm delivered to a licensee for the sole purpose of repair or customizing when such firearm or a replacement firearm is returned to the person from whom received.

Additional information:

ATF Online - Firearms - Frequently Asked Questions - Brady Law
Q: A firearm is delivered to a licensee by an unlicensed individual for the purpose of repair. Is the return of the repaired firearm subject to the requirements of the Brady law? Would the transfer of a replacement firearm from the licensee to the owner of the damaged firearm be subject to the requirements of the Brady law?

Neither the transfer of a repaired firearm nor the transfer of a replacement firearm would be subject to the requirements of the Brady law. Furthermore, the regulations provide that a Form 4473 is not required to cover these transactions. However, the licensee's permanent acquisition and disposition records should reflect the return of the firearm or the transfer of a replacement firearm.

[27 CFR 478.124-25]


The licensee in this case is the manufacturer. They would be required to annotate the transfer in their book. Remember, that the manufacturer does this with every firearm when they make transfers to dealers who then in turn record the transfer to the buyer.
 
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When they replaced my BG38 the replacement had to be shipped to an FFL, but they reimbursed me for transfer and background check fees.
 
why not just repair it yourself with a 1/4-28 heli-coil repair kit. heli-coils are generally the preferred way to fix stripped threads in aluminum, and are twice as strong as the original threads. the kits generally have enough coil inserts to make a dozen or so repairs...the drill and tap are reused.
 
why not just repair it yourself with a 1/4-28 heli-coil repair kit. heli-coils are generally the preferred way to fix stripped threads in aluminum, and are twice as strong as the original threads. the kits generally have enough coil inserts to make a dozen or so repairs...the drill and tap are reused.

That's what I would do as well. Ron
 
I don't believe a 1/4-28 heli-coil repair would work in this instance. Reason being there is not enough thickness to the frame material to accomodate drilling the receiver and tapping to the diamentions needed for the heli coil itself......You might however be able to use the 10-28 heli-coil diamentions and still have sufficient frame strength. A 10-28,Screw (perhaps stainless) although smaller in diameter, with a proper size washer would certainly have enough tensil strength to hold the grip on properly...there are also other remides to this problem.........best regards Plum
 
+1 to Plumbago

After repeated removal of my grip, I stripped mine too. Bummer as it is a registered SBR.

I fixed it with the 1/4 x 28 helicoil but there is not a lot of meat to work with on the plastic grip mount. It was kinda tricky as the original hole was drilled noticeably off center.

If I did it again I would go with Plumbago's recommendation.
 
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I had a S&W pistol with a bad frame. Sent it in and they reused all parts except the frame which they replaced with a new one stamped with my original serial #. They destroyed the old frame. No FFL dealer involved, no new paperwork, no charges and no hassles. I even got a call from Paul Libenberg explaining what they had done. They can do the same with his rifle.
 
Wbear, it's nice to hear an example of excellent customer service for a defective product.

In this particular case, jsha22lr and I screwed up. It was our fault that we damaged our lower receivers and S&W should not be responsible for fixing them. We should pay for a replacement, if possible.

http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm I've got an extra one for free if you want it, just PM me, but I still recommend Plumbago's solution.
 
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Wbear, it's nice to hear an example of excellent customer service for a defective product.

In this particular case, jsha22lr and I screwed up. It was our fault that we damaged our lower receivers and S&W should not be responsible for fixing them. We should pay for a replacement, if possible.

Keenserts® Keylocking Thread Inserts I've got an extra one for free if you want it, just PM me, but I still recommend Plumbago's solution.

I disagree with the above comment. Although it may be true that the purchaser did indeed strip the thread a good manufacturer would not install a threaded socket cap bolt into a polymer frame for the firearms main grip expecting it to last forever.

They should of installed a threaded insert moulded into the frame so that this would not happen just like other mfg's do with their plastic and polymer products
 
Wow, I've taken mine off at least 8-10 times. I think I will leave it on there, it does feel weird when I am tightening it down. Hope I am not ruining the threads.
 
Wow, I've taken mine off at least 8-10 times. I think I will leave it on there, it does feel weird when I am tightening it down. Hope I am not ruining the threads.

This is another of those things, like taking the FCG completely apart when cleaning, that falls into the category of "yes, it CAN be done, but SHOULD it be done?"
 
glad I saw this thread.. I've tightened mine a few times, when putting in an otis kit, installing a ambi-safety, and came loose once.. don't figure to do too much changing at this point knowing threads are polymer. I just shoot the fcg with compressed air once it's scrubbed down. Works just as well.. no need to take it down.
 
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