One good tip for revolvers

jepp2 said:
Didn't learn this one the hard way but:

- If you are going to unscrew the extractor rod on your S&W revolver cylinder, it will be left hand threads (clockwise to remove) unless the revolver is very old. And make sure you put some fired casings in the cylinder before you start turning.
Click to expand...

What is the purpose for the fired casings in the cylinder?
 
To support the extractor star and prevent it from trying to turn. Another good practice is to always clean under the extractor with a toothbrush or something similar, unburned powder or crud can wreak havoc with the function of the gun.
 
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CigarGuy said:
Ok. Following my premise that I am an idiot when it comes to this stuff, with no intuitive reasoning........
When you say "soak" you mean, like, "hosing it down" with the MPro 7 you mention? Not actually sitting it in a pool of the stuff to "soak"?
Click to expand...

What I do is usually just daub it w/ a Q-tip to moisten the whole area, first thing when I start cleaning, then move on to cleaning the bore and cylinder. I hit it w/ the same Q-tip a couple times more while doing that, then if its still damp when I'm ready I pat it dry w/ a piece of patch, and then hit it w/ the l-r cloth. It's like soaking a dishpan w/ baked on crud, it just softens it up so it comes right off without having to scrub the heck out of it. I've used hoppes 9, KG-1 carbon remover and M-pro 7 to do it, doesn't seem to make much of a difference for this particular operation, long as it softens up the stuff.

That same l-r patch, finger-spun on a nylon jag from inside the frame window also cleans up the inside of the forcing cone pretty easily too if it's not too leaded, then running it over the pick gets the remaining stubborn bits afterwords ...

Since I found M-pro 7 after getting a nickel gun, I rarely use hoppes any more as the m-pro is no-stink, non-toxic (relatively), and non-carcinogenic, as well as safe for all finishes and wood, and it works IMO better than hoppes to boot.

Of course, that particular discovery was right after I bought an econo-quart of hoppes 9 heh heh..

Dave
 
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What? :eek: You mean I'm supposed to actually CLEAN my guns? :eek: Jessss kiddin... All good tips on cleaning! Especially dant's tip on "less is better", at least in my camp...

Blessings,
Hog
 
Lead removal cloth is safe and effective on nickel guns. I purchased a used 27-2 4" at a recent gun show that appeared to never have had the front of the cylinder cleaned-ever!
I spent alot of time and used alot of cloth but it lookes like it has never been shot-ever!
Bob
 
CigarGuy said:
I assume when you refer to "screws/screwdriver", you are referring to taking off the wheel?
Click to expand...

The wheel? Do you mean the cylinder? You need the right screwdriver to adjust the sights, remove the grips, take off the sideplate.

First things first. If you are not a mechanically inclined person, buy a good manual on taking your gun apart. Even if you are mechanically inclined, buy a good manual. If you run across something that you don't understand, look it up on the internet.



I will generally detail strip a gun when I buy it to make sure that everything is where it is supposed to be. At that time, I clean and oil it. I use way too much oil but my guns are out fighting in the desert, they are sitting in my closet.

One thing that I have discovered is that S&W revolvers are far more complex inside than Dan Wesson revolvers so I really don't like taking them apart.

My assorted semi-autos get cleaned when they start malfunctioning which means rarely.

It used to be that when I needed to do a detail cleaning, I'd fill a plastic container with VARSOL, remove the grips and then drop the gun into the VARSOL, put the lid on the container and let it soak overnight. Sadly, VARSOL is no longer available.

I have used carburetor cleaner to spray out guns.
 
My list of essentials for any home gunsmith

1. A spray can of carburetor cleaner - works wonders in blasting out crud.
2. A magnetic-bottom parts tray
3. A Dremel tool and accessories - the most useful tool I own.
4. A good screwdriver set of different blade sizes
5. A plastic-faced hammer
6. Surgical hemostats in several sizes
7. A set of GOOD jeweler's files
8. Brass cleaning brushes in all bore sizes (pull, never push), ditto jag tips, preferably brass ones.
9. A flexible-shaft pistol cleaning rod (great for cleaning rifle chambers too)
10. A 6" or 8" dial caliper
11. A roll of Bounty paper towels
 
My tip - go to the hardware store and buy a cheap half inch width nylon bristle paint brush. Should cost you a 89cents or so. When you get it home take the scissors to it and cut off approximately half of the length of the bristles. What you then have is a dandy cleaning brush for getting into those little crevices and nooks and crannies (what the heck is a crannie?) and won't scratch you pretty firearm. I like CLP Breakfree. Apply it pretty liberally. Let it soak a bit. Brush with your nifty little cleaning brush to get the hard to get to spots. Wipe 'er dry.

rolomac
 
Take a paper towel or cloth and wrap it around the crane so the cylinder doesn't try to close while you are cleaning the chambers.
 
Disassemble your hand gun in a large plastic bag, like a "cleaneners" bag covering the fresh laundry.

It is easier to recover springs / parts that try to fly away.
 
Over the years I have found an ideal cleaning solvent as well as an ideal lubricant. Both are very earth-friendly and fairly easy to acquire and cheap.

I use corn-based alcohol (Moonshine) as a cleaning solvent. It cleans light staining and thin lead deposits with a wipe-on, wipe-off procedure. For tougher cleaning jobs I simply give it a more generous coating then let it set for a while.

DSCF0261.jpg


After my guns are clean I lube with rendered bear fat which is clear as spring water when warm. It is not overly thick so it does not hold dust and get gummy. In addition to lubricating well it sheds water and protects the steel from rust very well.

I keep both chemicals in Mason jars on my workbench.

I must admit that I sometimes test (taste) the ... eh ... cleaning solvent to verify it has maintained its strength.

Well, one night while cleaning several guns, I tested the ... eh ... solvent several times before I got the jars mixed up.

My advice is this: Clearly label both Mason jars when using 'shine and bear fat together.

I had to lick the dog's butt to get that bear fat taste out of my mouth.
 
Go to Costco's culinary section and get a large shallow tray - the kind you might see loaded with goodies in a cafeteria - either stainless or plastic. Mine is 24"x18"x2" clear plastic. The only solvent that seems to bother the plastic is the old time carb fluid.

Until you get more experienced and set up a good shop, this tray will stop all the parts you drop from rolling around or off the table.
 
Moonman said:
...Removable Magnetic Advertising Signs, like on a businesses truck door can make a good MAGNETIC BENCH MAT, to catch those loose and errant parts...
Click to expand...

You beat me to that one. Most sign shops sell it off a 24" wide roll. The only down side is that the back (black) side is the magnetic side - very little magnetic field on the white side, at least the stuff I have. But it sure helps to prevent those tiny little (read "expensive/awkward to replace") parts from scooting under the bench in response to Murphy's Law.
 
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