One good tip for revolvers
- Thread starter CigarGuy
- Start date
Well I broke the O.P.'s basic rule but he liked me for it so you can put the handcuffs away.
I'm sure others have already suggested this.......don't have ammo near your bench when cleaning or repairing.
suckersrus
Member
Over the years I have found an ideal cleaning solvent as well as an ideal lubricant. Both are very earth-friendly and fairly easy to acquire and cheap.
I use corn-based alcohol (Moonshine) as a cleaning solvent. It cleans light staining and thin lead deposits with a wipe-on, wipe-off procedure. For tougher cleaning jobs I simply give it a more generous coating then let it set for a while.
After my guns are clean I lube with rendered bear fat which is clear as spring water when warm. It is not overly thick so it does not hold dust and get gummy. In addition to lubricating well it sheds water and protects the steel from rust very well.
I keep both chemicals in Mason jars on my workbench.
I must admit that I sometimes test (taste) the ... eh ... cleaning solvent to verify it has maintained its strength.
Well, one night while cleaning several guns, I tested the ... eh ... solvent several times before I got the jars mixed up.
My advice is this: Clearly label both Mason jars when using 'shine and bear fat together.
I had to lick the dog's butt to get that bear fat taste out of my mouth.
I use corn-based alcohol (Moonshine) as a cleaning solvent. It cleans light staining and thin lead deposits with a wipe-on, wipe-off procedure. For tougher cleaning jobs I simply give it a more generous coating then let it set for a while.
After my guns are clean I lube with rendered bear fat which is clear as spring water when warm. It is not overly thick so it does not hold dust and get gummy. In addition to lubricating well it sheds water and protects the steel from rust very well.
I keep both chemicals in Mason jars on my workbench.
I must admit that I sometimes test (taste) the ... eh ... cleaning solvent to verify it has maintained its strength.
Well, one night while cleaning several guns, I tested the ... eh ... solvent several times before I got the jars mixed up.
My advice is this: Clearly label both Mason jars when using 'shine and bear fat together.
I had to lick the dog's butt to get that bear fat taste out of my mouth.
Stregavet
Member
Go to Costco's culinary section and get a large shallow tray - the kind you might see loaded with goodies in a cafeteria - either stainless or plastic. Mine is 24"x18"x2" clear plastic. The only solvent that seems to bother the plastic is the old time carb fluid.
Until you get more experienced and set up a good shop, this tray will stop all the parts you drop from rolling around or off the table.
Until you get more experienced and set up a good shop, this tray will stop all the parts you drop from rolling around or off the table.
You beat me to that one. Most sign shops sell it off a 24" wide roll. The only down side is that the back (black) side is the magnetic side - very little magnetic field on the white side, at least the stuff I have. But it sure helps to prevent those tiny little (read "expensive/awkward to replace") parts from scooting under the bench in response to Murphy's Law.
Ok, lots of good tips. +1 on the proper screwdrivers, good lubes, and bronze wool. 0000 bronze wool is available at any good hardware store, and does a great job cleaning out lead/powder/copper fouling.
I'd add that about the best carbon solvent I've used is plain old deodorized mineral spirits, aka paint thinner. You can call it Stoddard solvent if you want to sound smart. I've tried any number of expensive concoctions, like carbon killer and MPro-7, but nothing works better than some deodorized spirits, and I mix with a little CLP or 5w-30 so it doesn't strip all lubrication.
Also, these are great: WEAPONS CARE SYSTEM PELLETS - Brownells
Used with a little bore cleaner like Iosso or Butch"s they'll leave your barrel like a mirror. After I've used them a couple times like this the barrels of my guns have been much easier and faster to clean, and I usually just need to brush them out, then follow with the pellets with a little Flitz on them. I had a real aversion to any abrasive cleaning methods for a long time, but I think that used in moderation they can really help a gun shoot better, unless you've already got a hand-lapped bore.
Oh, lots of patches, good lighting and a pair of clip on magnifiers for the safety glasses are all necessary items as well!
I'd add that about the best carbon solvent I've used is plain old deodorized mineral spirits, aka paint thinner. You can call it Stoddard solvent if you want to sound smart. I've tried any number of expensive concoctions, like carbon killer and MPro-7, but nothing works better than some deodorized spirits, and I mix with a little CLP or 5w-30 so it doesn't strip all lubrication.
Also, these are great: WEAPONS CARE SYSTEM PELLETS - Brownells
Used with a little bore cleaner like Iosso or Butch"s they'll leave your barrel like a mirror. After I've used them a couple times like this the barrels of my guns have been much easier and faster to clean, and I usually just need to brush them out, then follow with the pellets with a little Flitz on them. I had a real aversion to any abrasive cleaning methods for a long time, but I think that used in moderation they can really help a gun shoot better, unless you've already got a hand-lapped bore.
Oh, lots of patches, good lighting and a pair of clip on magnifiers for the safety glasses are all necessary items as well!
Last edited:
Deacon KC
Member
My suggestions have mostly been covered: the magnetic pad, proper screwdrivers and odorless mineral spirits. To the mineral spirits, I will add if you get an older, really gunked up gun, take the grip panels off it and let it soak overnight, it will clean up like a breeze the next day. Also, I cannot recommend highly enough to replace the springs when getting a used handgun. Either factory or Wolff are a great investment.
I just use a Dewey muzzle guard on my cleaning rod. It's a brass cone "thingy" (there- said it for you!) with a flange at the back and a hole through the middle. (brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5650/Product/DEWEY-BRASS-MUZZLE-GUARDS) The only time I clean from the breech is when using a Lewis lead remover patch.
For cleaning... not detail stripping, etc., but cleaning, I'd suggest that you not use the coffee table in the den for your work bench.
Aluminum ones are available at any restaurant supply store. They're called "half-sheets". I cover mine with a "Wee-wee pad" that we keep on hand for our little dog. It's absorbant (for cleaning) and padded to protect the gun finishes.
Cleaning the chambers in the cylinder is always the most time-consuming and frustrating chore with revolvers. If you do it while the cylinder is still attached to the gun, it's awkward, gets cleaning solution all over the frame, and it's possibly hard on the tight tolerances on the crane and frame interface as you scrub.
For these reasons, I always remove the cylinder from the gun and clean it separately and carefully. The procedure is simple. With a correct-fitting hollow-ground screwdriver, remove the forward screw under the cylinder from the frame on the right side. Take care not to lose it. I usually put it in a receptacle on the cleaning surface. Then use the thumb latch to release the cylinder outward, and pull both the cylinder and the crane forward off the gun. The cylinder can then be pulled out of the crane for cleaning. Don't attempt to remove the ejector rod from the cylinder. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the above procedure, and is quite easy. Line up the cylinder so it's positioned to the left of the frame opening, and then then slide the attached crane into its hole in the frame. Close the cylinder into the frame, and re-insert the retaining screw. Tighten it securely but not too tight. You'll do a better and less messy job of cleaning the chambers with no injury to the carefully-fitted crane.
John
For these reasons, I always remove the cylinder from the gun and clean it separately and carefully. The procedure is simple. With a correct-fitting hollow-ground screwdriver, remove the forward screw under the cylinder from the frame on the right side. Take care not to lose it. I usually put it in a receptacle on the cleaning surface. Then use the thumb latch to release the cylinder outward, and pull both the cylinder and the crane forward off the gun. The cylinder can then be pulled out of the crane for cleaning. Don't attempt to remove the ejector rod from the cylinder. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the above procedure, and is quite easy. Line up the cylinder so it's positioned to the left of the frame opening, and then then slide the attached crane into its hole in the frame. Close the cylinder into the frame, and re-insert the retaining screw. Tighten it securely but not too tight. You'll do a better and less messy job of cleaning the chambers with no injury to the carefully-fitted crane.
John
clean under the ejector star. put some cleaning solvent or oil on the outside of the crane and insert it into the cylinder and spin it a few times. remove the crane and wipe it off and repeat a few times until it comes out clean. also clean inside the crane with a pipecleaner with cleaning solvent.
Lenny_D
Member
When removing sideplate keep a thumb resting lightly on sideplate while striking frame in grip area with the handle of hammer or a plastic dowel. Do it over a towel on the bench so when sideplate comes loose and if you drop it it will be on a soft surface. If not you can use the towel to wipe the tears from your face.
jepp2
Member
Two additional tips for consideration:
1. to clean the area between the top of the barrel (that extends through the frame) and the top strap, I have found that braided nylon string works very well. I had originally read that a cotton shoelace works well for this, but I couldn't find any cotton shoe laces, so I tried the braided nylon string I had and it works on almost all of my S&W's. Just saw it back and force to remove carbon that builds up in this area. Once you get it clean it is easy to keep it that way.
2. my go to cleaning solution for soaking gun parts is OMS (odorless mineral spirits) with some CLP added. The OMS softens the carbon very well and after a day or so of soaking a tooth brush will remove most deposits. I use a metal bread pan as the container. I use the expanded metal basket for organizing drawers and it just fits in the bread pan. It helps in fishing the parts out.
1. to clean the area between the top of the barrel (that extends through the frame) and the top strap, I have found that braided nylon string works very well. I had originally read that a cotton shoelace works well for this, but I couldn't find any cotton shoe laces, so I tried the braided nylon string I had and it works on almost all of my S&W's. Just saw it back and force to remove carbon that builds up in this area. Once you get it clean it is easy to keep it that way.
2. my go to cleaning solution for soaking gun parts is OMS (odorless mineral spirits) with some CLP added. The OMS softens the carbon very well and after a day or so of soaking a tooth brush will remove most deposits. I use a metal bread pan as the container. I use the expanded metal basket for organizing drawers and it just fits in the bread pan. It helps in fishing the parts out.
"Didn't learn this one the hard way but:
- If you are going to unscrew the extractor rod on your S&W revolver cylinder, it will be left hand threads (clockwise to remove) unless the revolver is very old. And make sure you put some fired casings in the cylinder before you start turning."
I did learn this the hard way.Sent Model10 to S&W for new extractor rod because I thought it was stripped , just was turning it the wrong way. Didn't know about this forum at the time. - JP
- If you are going to unscrew the extractor rod on your S&W revolver cylinder, it will be left hand threads (clockwise to remove) unless the revolver is very old. And make sure you put some fired casings in the cylinder before you start turning."
I did learn this the hard way.Sent Model10 to S&W for new extractor rod because I thought it was stripped , just was turning it the wrong way. Didn't know about this forum at the time. - JP
GCF
Member
Sooo..., is it safe to assume that Rover has SINCE taken to hangin' around the workbench - w/ his tail waggin'?? ;=]
Seriously though, in addition to using a Chore Boy wrapped brush to breech clean lead fouling from a barrel, it works great on carbon & lead fouling in your revolver chambers.
Pipe cleaners are dandy for this as well, esp. the abrasive ones with harder fibers embedded in them. (They clean carbon deposits from pipes, after all.) Good for cleaning out screw and pin holes, too.
I also have become a fan of Ballistol for general cleaning. (Courtesy of "hickock45, your internet shooting guru.")
Opinions on the odor vary considerably; I kind of like it.
Booze and gun auctions don't mix.
My list of cleaning/maintenance tips:
1. Don't use WD-40. The only product that ever failed me.
2. Guns are just metal (at least the working parts) and don't know the difference between inexpensive and top-of-the-line name brands. They just want to be cleaned and lubed. I've used everything from "gun" products to ATF lube, engine oils, 3-in-1 one oils, Singer sewing machine oil, axle grease, marine grease, and even a few drops of Quaker State from the dip stick of my truck in a pinch--and not one has ever failed to perform in any firearm I've owned. Guns don't read the ads in gun magazines, you do, and marketers know it.
3. I don't care for combo "CLPs." They have to have some sort of solvent to break down the gunk, and solvents are contrary to lubricants. It's not going to break the bank or cause harm to buy a separate solvent and lubricant--even if your buy the $10 a bottle "gun" stuff.
4. Pipe cleaners, old toothbrushes, and Q-Tips are cheaper than expensive cleaning kit components. Old t-shirts make great cleaning patches (old underwear may leave skid marks on SS).
5. Elbow grease works well too.
6. I was kiddding about the skid marks; just remember to use old, clean underwear.
1. Don't use WD-40. The only product that ever failed me.
2. Guns are just metal (at least the working parts) and don't know the difference between inexpensive and top-of-the-line name brands. They just want to be cleaned and lubed. I've used everything from "gun" products to ATF lube, engine oils, 3-in-1 one oils, Singer sewing machine oil, axle grease, marine grease, and even a few drops of Quaker State from the dip stick of my truck in a pinch--and not one has ever failed to perform in any firearm I've owned. Guns don't read the ads in gun magazines, you do, and marketers know it.
3. I don't care for combo "CLPs." They have to have some sort of solvent to break down the gunk, and solvents are contrary to lubricants. It's not going to break the bank or cause harm to buy a separate solvent and lubricant--even if your buy the $10 a bottle "gun" stuff.
4. Pipe cleaners, old toothbrushes, and Q-Tips are cheaper than expensive cleaning kit components. Old t-shirts make great cleaning patches (old underwear may leave skid marks on SS).
5. Elbow grease works well too.
6. I was kiddding about the skid marks; just remember to use old, clean underwear.
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Always carry spare ammo for a re-load. As with any carry gun, practice often. Don't cheap-out on a good CCW holster. Send all NIB 50+ year old Smiths to me!
Chief38
Chief38
Frank46
US Veteran
Do not buy the el cheapo bore brushes with the cut ends on the end of the brush. If you are not careful those sharp edges can and will put some nasty looking divots on the firing pin bushing on revolvers. You usually see these in the cheaper cleaning kits. Best ones and the only ones I use are the brass cored ones with the end in a loop. And they are not that expensive when bought in bulk. Frank
A very satisfactory bore guide for Cal .270 & up can be made from a 6.5x55mm cartridge case with the primer pocket drilled "Letter F" (.257"). Fits a U.S. Military cleaning rod like it belongs there, and the case neck slips into the bore to protect it from the rod. With care, it works just as well from the breech.
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