J-frame carrying questions

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I'm thinking about getting a J-frame to carry. I was wondering if it was worth getting a scandium frame versus an aluminum frame. I would stick to a .38+P and really do not want a 357. What barrel length would be highly recommended? I currently carry the LCP and I like the size and weight of that and my goal is getting something similar but in a revolver. I want to get something I can carry and not worry about the finish. Pocket or IWB is the way I would be carrying. How are the DAO triggers versus the standard triggers? Their is shrouded and non shrouded as well. I just do not know where to begin. This is all new to me when it comes to carrying a revolver.

Thanks, James
 
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I agree re: 442/642 which is the stainless finish, better for warmer weather carry. You can spend a great deal extra on the titanium frames but you really only save a couple of ounces. If you don't plan on using .357 I don't see the need for spending the extra money. I carry IWB or pocket and don't notice the difference in weight. You can spend the money you save on extra range ammo or a second 442/642 for a NY Reload.
 
I agree re: 442/642 which is the stainless finish, better for warmer weather carry. You can spend a great deal extra on the titanium frames but you really only save a couple of ounces. If you don't plan on using .357 I don't see the need for spending the extra money. I carry IWB or pocket and don't notice the difference in weight. You can spend the money you save on extra range ammo or a second 442/642 for a NY Reload.

Well put!!
Its a carry, Finish what finish?
 
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I agree with the others the 442/642 is the way to go. If it's a concealed carry gun, you'll only need double action anyway. Having the hammer enclosed prevents snagging the hammer spur during the draw stroke. I carry a 442 daily either in a pocket holster or owb depending on how I'm dressed.
 

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If you currently have an LCP and like it, why not get an LCR? I've replaced most of my J-frames with LCRs because of their smooth, light trigger pull. I carry N-frames (327SC and 627 PC UDR) most of the time. When I want someting smaller and lighter I carry one or two LCRs in 38 Spl +P.
 
I carry a 442 IWB (Appendix) when carried as a primary with a BUG being an LCP in weak hand pocket. Sometimes the 442 is the BUG carried in an ankle holster, with the primary being a 3" 1911 IWB at about 4:00
The point is, the 442 is always carried.
 
I don' t know that the added weight savings of the scandium is worth the cost if you're shooting .38s. That said, the others who have suggested the 442/642 are offering good advice. I have fired a Ruger LCP, and even took it back to 25 yards to see how it did. I fired something like five rounds and hit a torso target five times with it, but that was slow fire and the sights are a bit hard to line up. I can't really say that the J-frame snubbies and the LCP are comparable. The J-frames are a lot more accurate than most shooters realize, while the LCP would be a BUG's BUG, in my opinion. The best way to develop proficiency with a J-frame is to work with it and dry fire a lot. Get comfortable with the trigger and be able to press it straight to the rear without disturbing the front sight picture every time will make you an accurate shooter when live ammunition is applied.
 
If you currently have an LCP and like it, why not get an LCR? I've replaced most of my J-frames with LCRs because of their smooth, light trigger pull. I carry N-frames (327SC and 627 PC UDR) most of the time. When I want someting smaller and lighter I carry one or two LCRs in 38 Spl +P.

I thought about the LCR and I love Ruger's but for me I have a personal requirements. I believe that all revolvers should be made out of metal and all 1911's should be as well. It is a personal preference. I already have a polymer gun and that is the LCP. I also think Smith makes the best snub-nosed revolvers on the planet. The LCR weighs 13.5 oz and the 442/642 weigh 15oz. My LCP weighs 10oz with the Crimson Trace so I rather have an all metal revolver. The 340 only weighs 13.3oz but is significantly more than the LCR so I can only compare the weight between the two because of the vast difference in price.

How is the trigger pull on the DAO? Is it a shorter stroke to shoot faster? Never fired one before in a revolver. I tried carrying compact polymer guns and I do not like them. Too bulky and heavy, just not my thing. I always had a thing for revolvers especially j-frames.

James
 
I don' t know that the added weight savings of the scandium is worth the cost if you're shooting .38s. That said, the others who have suggested the 442/642 are offering good advice. I have fired a Ruger LCP, and even took it back to 25 yards to see how it did. I fired something like five rounds and hit a torso target five times with it, but that was slow fire and the sights are a bit hard to line up. I can't really say that the J-frame snubbies and the LCP are comparable. The J-frames are a lot more accurate than most shooters realize, while the LCP would be a BUG's BUG, in my opinion. The best way to develop proficiency with a J-frame is to work with it and dry fire a lot. Get comfortable with the trigger and be able to press it straight to the rear without disturbing the front sight picture every time will make you an accurate shooter when live ammunition is applied.

I'm only comparing weight and size of the j-frames to the LCP. I know the revolver will be bigger and I expect that, just wanted to get something close to the size and weight of the LCP. Also I wanted to step it up a notch in firepower as well. I have 6+1 of the .380 right now but with the revolver, I can run .38+P with 5 shots and ballistics as you know favor the .38.

James
 
S&W Airweights

You might like the Airweights for concealed carry. I carry. Model 37, and a model 38 hamerless in a Kramer T-shirt holster. They're so light, you forget they are fhere.
 
You might like the Airweights for concealed carry. I carry. Model 37, and a model 38 hamerless in a Kramer T-shirt holster. They're so light, you forget they are fhere.

THAT is what I'm looking for. When I carry my LCP I forget it is on me:eek: They do not make the 38 anymore, do they?
 
From personal experience with a 442 rusting (on the yoke's inside surface) if I didn't wipe it down every night with a silicone cloth, I would ONLY consider stainless or other non-carbon-steel guns for daily IWB or pocket carry. I switched to a 638 - love the shrouded hammer for fun at the range but no risk of snagging on the draw, and have never had a hint of rust despite carrying it IWB daily and NOT wiping it down every night. Like rockyrider, I forget it's there most of the time.

The best training tool for working on your double action trigger pull is a Crimson Trace laser grip. You probably will be surprised how much that red dot moves around as you pull through the trigger arc, but because you can see it on every trigger pull, you can work on getting better. I have the 405 but if given the chance to do it over I'd pick the 305. Both cover the backstrap, but the 405 is VERY thin and not very comfortable to practice with, especially on aluminum framed guns. I think the 305 would be much more comfortable to shoot, and probably not too much harder to conceal.
 
Since I already had it hosted, here are the
305's on the top and 405's on the bottom.

394534059.jpg
 
Here is the light and the superlight. 37 and a 342Ti. Mix and match. Which ever feels right at the moment.
Stu
 

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My 642 is my travel gun in a nice old cross draw from DeSantis. I love Airweights and presently have a 642 and 637.
 
A 340PD loaded with Corbon DPX 110 +P's
in a Mike Pocket Holster is about as good as it gets
for pocket carry.
 

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I carry model 36 3" Square butt. I like the thin grip, it's easy to find and quick to grab and pull. The 3" barrel gives me a little better sight radius. I carry it IWB. I don't worry so much about +P ammo, there's not a lot of difference between standard pressure and +P in a snubby.
The new modern grips are great for the range but the old school grips are quicker on the street. The only problem with the model 36 is that the new ones cost and arm and a leg. The good news is that S&W made tens of thousands of these little guns and you can find them lightly used for good prices.
 
Does S&W still have issues with their airweights corroding? I remember seeing somewhere on here the coating coming off and the aluminum starting to corrode. I have been pricing the 442/642 and they are around $400-$500, does that sound right?

James
 
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