Preventing rust on a blue finish for carry?

Carnauba Wax by NANOWAX is the best that I have found. It is a spray on and wipe off that is nothing but Carnauba. Won't hurt the blue and won't rust. Before this I use Mothers and it was a lot more work. Spray and wipe is easier to do every day. Oil dose nothing but suck up water from the air.
 
On the bookshelf where I put my carry gun at the end of the day is a handkerchief-sized piece of t-shirt, folded into a square, doused with a few drops of oil, and kept in a sealed ziploc bag. Before I lay the gun down, I grab the gun cloth and give it a quick rubdown. Not a cleaning job, just a fast swipe to remove fingerprints and restore the thinnest trace coat of oil. No rust, ever.
 
I carried blued issue guns on the job and I have a model 36 I carried in a boot as backup and in a pocket as backup for years. The finish is badly worn from all the rubbing and use over 40 years. It also went on many hunting trips just as an extra gun where big handguns just took too much space and too heavy, since a rifle was primary.

Lots of sweat on that gun from the boot. The only way to keep the wear and rust down is to empty the gun, spray it down and oil it, often.

Today, I have several and have revised my care. First, I use Ballistol now and carry a can in the truck. Anything that get sweat or wet gets an immediate spray down. I also use it for cleaning. However, for a deep clean, I get the gun totally dry using alcohol or starting fluid. Then wax, I use Ren Wax now but agree, Nufinish is not wax but works fine. Johnson Wax is also wax and works fine.

I also agree with grease on the inside, wax on the outside. Take the side plate off, clean it with anything, add a tiny amount of grease , I use that Wilsons now, expensive but it takes little, close it up and wax the outside. Forget about it unless it gets sweat or wet.

Holsters matter. Never put a blue gun in a plastic holster, they will scratch. A lined leather holster is best for a blue finish, but even leather needs a little treatment now and again. Nylon is soft and fine, but it can hold moisture.

I am also in that camp of spraying the gun a tiny bit just 1 second before it goes into the holster, just do not get anything on the primers. Again, I use Ballistol for that.

Or as many say, carry the stainless or luminum guns like my 637, while the 36 stays in the safe, but I do understand why you want to carry it.
 
Nothing beats a good wax job .
Ren-Wax is the most expensive .
Birchwood-Casey ... Barricade Rust Preventive is a liquid wax in a spray can ... it works .
Automotive Car Wax ... Like Mother's Pure Carnuba Gold ...
a good auto paste wax without cleaners , polishers or color will do an excellent job ... the wax is affordable so you can wax your gun weekly ... Car Wax Works Also ... just use a pure wax .
Gary
 
You can keep a revolver pristine or you can carry and use it. Not both. You need to practice presentations, resulting in holster wear. You need to do practice and drills, both live and dry fire, resulting in drag lines, etc. Just carrying it will do a little buffing here and scratching there. Corrosion protection is part of the cleaning regime you will perform on your valuable life saving device.
None of the above will result in keeping the revolver "like new*. To keep it like new, keep it in the safe.
My only concern is rust, I’m not worried about blemishes from normal use
 
I have used EEZOX for, what is now, decades. I carried a Colt Government for
many years, while I was a gunsmith in NYC with 100% humidity in the summer and sweating my butt off and the EEZOX prevented rust. Hard to find.
 
On the bookshelf where I put my carry gun at the end of the day is a handkerchief-sized piece of t-shirt, folded into a square, doused with a few drops of oil, and kept in a sealed ziploc bag. Before I lay the gun down, I grab the gun cloth and give it a quick rubdown. Not a cleaning job, just a fast swipe to remove fingerprints and restore the thinnest trace coat of oil. No rust, ever.
Right on, this is the approach I decided to take. Seems easy enough.
 
I have an oily rag I use to wipe off my firearms after handling, old school. I usually wipe it down when I pull it out of the holster at the end of the day.
 
In
I have an oily rag I use to wipe off my firearms after handling, old school. I usually wipe it down when I pull it out of the holster at the end of the day.
right, I’ve heard this a lot. Seems like the most practical thing to do. I’ll post an update in about a year how my 36-11 looks. I feel like simply taking a rag to it would probably be enough. It seems the biggest enemy to blueing is more direct contact with high sodium liquids than anything, such as sweat. Which even then, depending on the person, it would likely take time to begin to do anything.

As I said in the OP, I just really love a blued J frame for carry. My favorite part is how they patina over time. If my 1903 Hand Ejector made it 120 years I’m sure a 36 can too.
 
My suggestion is to spray it with Hornady One Shot gun cleaner and lube. I read a study with most of the common CLPs presently available on steel test samples and the One Shot outperformed everything else tested against it both for its lubricating properties and corrosion protection. The best part is it dries quickly and doesn't leave a film that attracts gunk. Don't confuse it with Hornady One Shot case lube for reloading. The cans look the same so it's easy to get the two confused.

It's really good stuff!
 

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A buddy of mine works for GM. He found a product they use on rims thats a liquid ceremic solution. He has used it on a few of his guns. I dont know about rust prevention but it makes cleaning guns easier. Powder residue dosent seem to stick on as bad.
 
My only concern is rust, I’m not worried about blemishes from normal use
I carried a blue model 36 for years in an ankle holster- running through rain puddles, knee deep snow and even took a couple accidental spills into ponds and swamps wearing it over the years. While the blue wore over time ( in my sample of one it wore very gradually and with good character- I will always prefer blue to stainless every time!) I never had any rust, and did not lavish much care on it at all. A wipe down here and there probably no more frequent than a couple times a month. Blue is much more rust resistant than people give it credit for, and I have seen plenty of neglected rusty stainless guns.
 
Ren wax and occasional wipe downs with a silicone cloth. Leave the CLP and what not on the inside, not the outside.
 
RenWax, is applied to the outside, in very thin layers. It will not wander around to the internals.
I remove the cylinder, when it is applied.
Wipe the gun with a cloth, after it's carried.
 
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