old .38 spcl; what do I have here?

[Al_Jennings]

My friend got into his late father's safe and found this old S&W, sn 465XXX. Seems to be in reasonable condition for not having been carefully cared for. Can anyone answer: specific model, approx DOB, ballpark value, OK to shoot it?

Also, are the small #'s 16545 on the frame and crane, visible when the cylinder is opened, just assembly tracking #'s?

Thanks

 

[DCWilson]

That is a .38 Military & Police from about 1924/25. S&W made more of this general pattern of revolver over the decades than any other, so there is no scarcity premium attached to it. The finish on that one is kind of rough, so its value is determined by its shootability, not its collectability. I'd put its value at $250 if it is mechanically sound, less than that if it needs a bit of work.

If the gun seems tight and solid when it is cocked, and if the bore is unobstructed, it is probably safe to shoot -- but if you don't feel comfortable making that evaluation yourself, show it to a gunsmith or knowledgeable seller and get an opinion from him.

I restrict myself to 148 gr match wadcutter loads in my old M&Ps. It's safe to shoot modern ammo, but why stress the old warhorse any more than you need to?

 

[Deacon KC]

I am a sucker for those older wheelguns. I especially love "mud puppies" like that one!

 

[Gryff]

It's safe to shoot modern ammo, but why stress the old warhorse any more than you need to?

I would think that it would be a good thing to NOT shoot +P ammo in these old guns.

 

[DWalt]

It will handle +P safely. There is almost paranoia about how bad +P is on older guns (post-heat treated, about 1921 and later for S&W), and it's unfounded. +P is about like .38 Special loads used to be before the factory loading pressures changed over 40 years ago. However, for 99+% of shooting needs, there is absolutely no reason for using it, and I would certainly not recommend it for shooting paper or tin cans. If you want to keep a cylinder full of them in your nightstand, for when the BGs bust down your front door, that's fine. But they are not needed even then. Otherwise, always use standard loads. They are easier on the revolver and cheaper.

 

[Al_Jennings]

Thanks for all the info, guys, very helpful.

No one answered about the small #'s 16545 on the frame and crane, visible when the cylinder is opened, just assembly tracking #'s to keep them together?

 

[mikepriwer]

Yes - that is the assembly number. It has no meaning once the gun is completed.

Mike Priwer

 

[oberon]

That thing is precisely what my idea of a revolver is and should be. It is the working gun of the 20th century. It is the gun that guys, our grandfathers & great grand fathers applied handgun tech & home ballistics to. It is the gun that has been reloaded for more than any other in the history of the gun. It is a true classic and ought to be run as the old working iron that it is. The life of those things is indeterminate & indefinite. It will run forever with reasonable care. No hot loads, no high end premium defensive loads; just some nice midrange SWCs & WCs, and that thing will be here for your kids grandkids. For real.
That thing is one fine revolver.