Wow, that aught to be interesting.Is this a good addition:
One that is an oldie but has some great loads is Ken Waters "Pet Loads"
it is still available at Amazon.
Reloading Book (s)
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One that is an oldie but has some great loads is Ken Waters "Pet Loads"
it is still available at Amazon.
The Hodgdon is just a load data book, not a manual. It just has the data that is online at their reloading center. You can just look up what you want and print it. I am a big fan of Hodgdon and think their online site is the best one.
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Old manuals are just that -- old!!! If you have an 8 # can of 1968 smokeless powder, then a 1968 reloading manual has merit. If you have the 1970 "Motors Repair Manual" for Ford F-series trucks, you are in trouble working on your 2010 F-150.
The current Lyman book is excellent for cast bullet data and jacketed bullets. Buy a manual for the brand of bullets and a manual from the powder company you prefer. A 308 diameter, 150 grain spitzer soft point, flat base bullet doesn't change much between manufacturers.
The bottom line is quite simple: at some point you have to stop reading, and start seating primers, loading powder charges, seating bullets. For any caliber center-fire cartridge chose a middle weight bullet, middle speed powder, middle weight powder charge, seat the bullet to recommended cartridge over-all length, and you have a safe reload. A too long cartridge may not chamber in your rifle (or fit in the magazine) and too short cartridge may raise chamber pressure too high.
For 308 Winchester: use a standard large rifle primer (any brand), bullets range from 100 grain to 220 grain in weight so use 150 or 165 grain, powder charge varies from ~38 to ~ 48 grains depending on powder burn rate verify that 42.0 grains of IMR 4895 is a mid range powder charge.
Simply stated you need a reloading manual to explain the details of the reloading process and important details. Reading the instructions that come with the reloading dies is an excellent start. All books strongly recommend their brand of equipment. I use a Dillon 550 press, Lee bullet mold, Lyman bullet sizer, Bob's bulk homemade bullet lube, RCBS dies, a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp Die, Accurate Arms load data and powder. My 45 ACP ammo is far more accurate than I am, brass ejection is very consistant, and my exact combination of components is not listed in ANYBODY'S reloading manual with ~750 FPS muzzle velocity through my chronograph.
Old manuals are just that -- old!!! If you have an 8 # can of 1968 smokeless powder, then a 1968 reloading manual has merit. If you have the 1970 "Motors Repair Manual" for Ford F-series trucks, you are in trouble working on your 2010 F-150.
The current Lyman book is excellent for cast bullet data and jacketed bullets. Buy a manual for the brand of bullets and a manual from the powder company you prefer. A 308 diameter, 150 grain spitzer soft point, flat base bullet doesn't change much between manufacturers.
The bottom line is quite simple: at some point you have to stop reading, and start seating primers, loading powder charges, seating bullets. For any caliber center-fire cartridge chose a middle weight bullet, middle speed powder, middle weight powder charge, seat the bullet to recommended cartridge over-all length, and you have a safe reload. A too long cartridge may not chamber in your rifle (or fit in the magazine) and too short cartridge may raise chamber pressure too high.
For 308 Winchester: use a standard large rifle primer (any brand), bullets range from 100 grain to 220 grain in weight so use 150 or 165 grain, powder charge varies from ~38 to ~ 48 grains depending on powder burn rate verify that 42.0 grains of IMR 4895 is a mid range powder charge.
Simply stated you need a reloading manual to explain the details of the reloading process and important details. Reading the instructions that come with the reloading dies is an excellent start. All books strongly recommend their brand of equipment. I use a Dillon 550 press, Lee bullet mold, Lyman bullet sizer, Bob's bulk homemade bullet lube, RCBS dies, a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp Die, Accurate Arms load data and powder. My 45 ACP ammo is far more accurate than I am, brass ejection is very consistant, and my exact combination of components is not listed in ANYBODY'S reloading manual with ~750 FPS muzzle velocity through my chronograph.
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Save your money, they are just load DATA. Buy the manuals listed at the beginning of the thread. Lyman, Lyman CAST, Speer, Hornady, ABC's that's all you need.
OK, I just bought the Lymann 49th addition book and not the others.
Bought it from Amazon.
$23.00 shipped in three days.
Now only if my press would get here. (5/26/13 I'm told)
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Bought it from Amazon.
$23.00 shipped in three days.
Now only if my press would get here. (5/26/13 I'm told)
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
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I own Speer, Hodgedon and a Lyman re-loading manual and while it is nice to have a hard copy at the loading bench, all the up to the minute data is on line now days. Doubt I'll buy another hard copy.
Just bought my first Ebook for the Nexus 7.
Reloading 101 by George A. Phillips
.99cents
Don't buy it even for .99cents Common since stuff and you can learn this book just by reads a few posts here.
Bought another Ebook for .99cents from Amazon.
Casting verses Swaging Bullets - Good read and informative for those who don't know anything about Casting verses Swaging.
170 pages and for .99 cents, a good read.
Jim
Casting verses Swaging Bullets - Good read and informative for those who don't know anything about Casting verses Swaging.
170 pages and for .99 cents, a good read.
Jim
Jeff423
US Veteran
There are two more manuals that in my opinion are priceless and written for the reloader and shooter who wants to understand how every component can change the equation a bit and how various rifles and handguns react or need to be handled differently for the best performance. These are Ken Water's Pet Loads which were published in Vol's 1 & 2.
Though this is older information it is still valid and extremely useful. These two volumes are a collection of articles he wrote when he was with Handloader Magazine and perhaps some others — not sure. Though some of the powders he worked with are no longer available most still are but nevertheless by checking the burn rate charts you can extrapolate and still use his loads. But more importantly he shares his precise system for working up loads and wringing performance and accuracy for everything from the Hornet to the 458 Winchester and most of the common handgun cartridges in a wide range of different guns. Of particular interest is his method for determining pressure signs. Which by the way is used by most everybody today short of having a pressure barrel and lab equipment.
I really hate to come off like some out of phase old timer but I have to also mention PO Ackley's book Handbook for Shooters and Reloaders. Again dated material but his book includes really good explanations of headspace, pressure and bore capacity and other sections on powder by B.E. Hodgdon, yes the old man gunpowder himself, and many others. The book is priceless for the insight you get from an expert gunsmith and wildcatter like Ackley and giants in the field of powder like Hodgdon and several big game hunters talking bullet design, flight and terminal performance.
Lastly for anybody who goes to old book stores or might see one at a gun show grab the old reloader's bible Complete Guide to Handloading by Phil Sharpe. This was originally printed back in 1937 but has been re-written and re-issued several times up to about 1953. This book is a great compilation and history of the propellant industry, the cartridge industry and how everything was put together and put out for public consumption for handloaders. The photos of old reloading equipment, powder mills etc are a treasure. There is lots of talk and insights from Harry Pope, in fact the book is dedicated to him. Harry Pope was the finest barrel maker this country has known for those who may not know the name. Anyway a great find if you can get your hands on one.
Go find these publications cause they are worth having if you are a serious loader wanting a bit more than the standard manuals. Happy Hunting.
Though this is older information it is still valid and extremely useful. These two volumes are a collection of articles he wrote when he was with Handloader Magazine and perhaps some others — not sure. Though some of the powders he worked with are no longer available most still are but nevertheless by checking the burn rate charts you can extrapolate and still use his loads. But more importantly he shares his precise system for working up loads and wringing performance and accuracy for everything from the Hornet to the 458 Winchester and most of the common handgun cartridges in a wide range of different guns. Of particular interest is his method for determining pressure signs. Which by the way is used by most everybody today short of having a pressure barrel and lab equipment.
I really hate to come off like some out of phase old timer but I have to also mention PO Ackley's book Handbook for Shooters and Reloaders. Again dated material but his book includes really good explanations of headspace, pressure and bore capacity and other sections on powder by B.E. Hodgdon, yes the old man gunpowder himself, and many others. The book is priceless for the insight you get from an expert gunsmith and wildcatter like Ackley and giants in the field of powder like Hodgdon and several big game hunters talking bullet design, flight and terminal performance.
Lastly for anybody who goes to old book stores or might see one at a gun show grab the old reloader's bible Complete Guide to Handloading by Phil Sharpe. This was originally printed back in 1937 but has been re-written and re-issued several times up to about 1953. This book is a great compilation and history of the propellant industry, the cartridge industry and how everything was put together and put out for public consumption for handloaders. The photos of old reloading equipment, powder mills etc are a treasure. There is lots of talk and insights from Harry Pope, in fact the book is dedicated to him. Harry Pope was the finest barrel maker this country has known for those who may not know the name. Anyway a great find if you can get your hands on one.
Go find these publications cause they are worth having if you are a serious loader wanting a bit more than the standard manuals. Happy Hunting.
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