Contrarian View
Old manuals are just that -- old!!! If you have an 8 # can of 1968 smokeless powder, then a 1968 reloading manual has merit. If you have the 1970 "Motors Repair Manual" for Ford F-series trucks, you are in trouble working on your 2010 F-150.
The current Lyman book is excellent for cast bullet data and jacketed bullets. Buy a manual for the brand of bullets and a manual from the powder company you prefer. A 308 diameter, 150 grain spitzer soft point, flat base bullet doesn't change much between manufacturers.
The bottom line is quite simple: at some point you have to stop reading, and start seating primers, loading powder charges, seating bullets. For any caliber center-fire cartridge chose a middle weight bullet, middle speed powder, middle weight powder charge, seat the bullet to recommended cartridge over-all length, and you have a safe reload. A too long cartridge may not chamber in your rifle (or fit in the magazine) and too short cartridge may raise chamber pressure too high.
For 308 Winchester: use a standard large rifle primer (any brand), bullets range from 100 grain to 220 grain in weight so use 150 or 165 grain, powder charge varies from ~38 to ~ 48 grains depending on powder burn rate verify that 42.0 grains of IMR 4895 is a mid range powder charge.
Simply stated you need a reloading manual to explain the details of the reloading process and important details. Reading the instructions that come with the reloading dies is an excellent start. All books strongly recommend their brand of equipment. I use a Dillon 550 press, Lee bullet mold, Lyman bullet sizer, Bob's bulk homemade bullet lube, RCBS dies, a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp Die, Accurate Arms load data and powder. My 45 ACP ammo is far more accurate than I am, brass ejection is very consistant, and my exact combination of components is not listed in ANYBODY'S reloading manual with ~750 FPS muzzle velocity through my chronograph.
