How to polish trigger bar on Shield 40?
- Thread starter NickSaban
- Start date
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Jyezahn
US Veteran
In that case, get some Flitz, apply it to the contact area on the trigger bar, dry fire away. Rinse, repeat until satisfied.
Ok, Dad has a dremel. I've heard to use felt, but you say rubber? Would I need Flitz as well?
Could anyone provide a picture of where to polish which parts too?
Don't fret, I won't proceed until I know what I'm doing.
TIA
Rastoff
US Veteran
The trigger bar is about $15 so, if you bugger it up, it's not the end of the world.
However, why do you want to polish it?
Before you make any adjustments, make sure you're adjusting the right thing. For example, if you have a gritty feel to your trigger, the trigger bar may not be the culprit.
However, why do you want to polish it?
Before you make any adjustments, make sure you're adjusting the right thing. For example, if you have a gritty feel to your trigger, the trigger bar may not be the culprit.
Rastoff
US Veteran
One more thing. While the Dremel is a great tool that every male over the age of 18 should own, it can be dangerous.
When learning to polish, it's best to start by hand. You're less likely to over do that way.
When learning to polish, it's best to start by hand. You're less likely to over do that way.
S&W M&P Trigger Job
This will give you an understanding of the inner workings of the trigger and all areas which may be addressed, depending on your skill/ comfort level.
Having done a few M&P trigger jobs, just polishing the trigger bar won't net you nearly the improvement of re-profiling/ polishing the striker block. You don't want to remove any material from the trigger bar other than sharp burs. Any burs can be easily removed with a fine stone or very fine sand paper like you use to wet sand a clear coat car finish.
I'm in support of the Flitz and dry fire method stated above if you have no experience in gunsmithing or with a rotary tool. A Dremel is a fast and easy way to screw something up. If you insist on using a Dremel, the grit impregnated rubber polishing tip would be preferable, offering more control and less stock removal.
Hope this helps.
This will give you an understanding of the inner workings of the trigger and all areas which may be addressed, depending on your skill/ comfort level.
Having done a few M&P trigger jobs, just polishing the trigger bar won't net you nearly the improvement of re-profiling/ polishing the striker block. You don't want to remove any material from the trigger bar other than sharp burs. Any burs can be easily removed with a fine stone or very fine sand paper like you use to wet sand a clear coat car finish.
I'm in support of the Flitz and dry fire method stated above if you have no experience in gunsmithing or with a rotary tool. A Dremel is a fast and easy way to screw something up. If you insist on using a Dremel, the grit impregnated rubber polishing tip would be preferable, offering more control and less stock removal.
Hope this helps.
I would MUCH rather start by hand, but have not seen what tools to use. Shop cloth with Flitz?
To the person asking why: Yes my trigger has a bit of gritty feel to it, but it has an excellent break and short O/A pull. I just read where people have had a positive change after polishing certain trigger parts.
I am also interested in polishing the feed ramp, and possibly the outside of the bbl., but I'm a long way from actually doing any of this, just want to get an idea.
Thanks for the helpful responses. Excellent active community here.
Would polishing the striker block be feasible for a careful novice?
K.macocker
Member
I polished the "ramp" where it rubs/pushes the USB and it removed nearly all gritty!!
It's the tallest part of the trigger bar toward the rear of the gun.
Dremel is not necessary.
Use fine grit metal sandpaper and run it up and down the ramp of the bar
I wrapped the sand paper around an object like a ruler.
Then wrap a cloth around it and use a little mothers alum polish and go to town rubbing. (this is where the Dremel really helps with polishing wheel).
Run til black and then rub with clean areas on the cloth until it shines!!
I wouldn't use the Dremel except for buffing wheel. Sand by hand. Dremel can remove too much metal quickly!! And make dips! The sandpaper around a "ruler" keeps everything flat.
Good luck!! I loved how it changed my trigger!!
Kmac
It's the tallest part of the trigger bar toward the rear of the gun.
Dremel is not necessary.
Use fine grit metal sandpaper and run it up and down the ramp of the bar
I wrapped the sand paper around an object like a ruler.
Then wrap a cloth around it and use a little mothers alum polish and go to town rubbing. (this is where the Dremel really helps with polishing wheel).
Run til black and then rub with clean areas on the cloth until it shines!!
I wouldn't use the Dremel except for buffing wheel. Sand by hand. Dremel can remove too much metal quickly!! And make dips! The sandpaper around a "ruler" keeps everything flat.
Good luck!! I loved how it changed my trigger!!
Kmac
Rastoff
US Veteran
Based on this statement, you should leave it alone. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.
I'm saying this from the perspective of a compulsive tinkerer. I just have to mess with stuff. I'm constantly taking things apart and putting them back together. I'm that guy that always wants to make it "better". Most of the time I'm successful, but every now and then I make it worse.
Because you say you have a nice trigger, leave it alone. Unless you're having some trouble with the gun, don't do anything. The M&P is a great gun and super reliable. You don't want to mess with success.
Yes, polishing the striker block is is pretty straight forward and is covered in the link I provided. It requires detail stripping the slide and removing the rear sight. It does involve some material removal and rounding the shoulder. The link I posted details how to do it. This step alone will remove nearly all of that grittiness. Also check the bore in the slide where the striker block goes. it may require some polishing as well and a little grease. I like Kleen Bore TW25B
