How to clean with Boresnake?

How often are you guys cleaning your .22 bore? I can't remember the last time I have....I pull the bolt assembly and wipe it down with Weaponshield (Fancy CLP) wipe the receiver and put the bolt back in.... my 22's never seem to need bore cleaning.

It's been years since I "scrubbed" a .22 bore. The last couple of years I have used the BoreSnake on everything. Since every outing involves 600-1,000 rounds, I make two or three passes through the bore with the snake, blow out the lower with an air compressor and run a baby bottle brush in the upper. A cleaning of the bolt face pretty much ends the cleaning.
 
Boresnakes for cleaning? I very much like them. I have been using various caliber Boresnakes since at least 1996 in everything from revolvers, pistols, rifles and shotguns. In my experience they are very effective.

When it comes to a .22 LR rifle, I very rarely clean the bore. I have found that I get more consistent results on target by establishing a bore condition and maintaining it. I brush/clean/wipe out the mechanism of the rifle and remove any bits of debris. I do the same for the bolt face, etc. I do not routinely dismantle the action unless it has gotten particularly nasty.

I shoot my S&W 18-3 a lot. Because of the nature of the design of a revolver, I find a more detailed routine cleaning is necessary, depending on the brand of ammunition being used. Some brands leave a good bit of soot, etc. requiring that the cylinder be brushed out approximately every 50-100 rounds. Other brands all one to keep shooting with no difficulties chambering or extracting up to say 350 rounds. For cleaning at home I will wipe out the bore w/ a damp patch using CLP. I'll of course clean the rest of the revolver in the normal manner.

For semi-automatic .22 LR pistols, I do a similar cleaning routine. At present I have only one such pistol, a Marvel .22 LR conversion unit for my 1911. I leave the barrel alone. Everything else gets wiped down to remove soot, grease and other firing residue. Then it is lightly oiled and stored.

For rifles ... it depends. I dearly enjoy shooting vintage military rifle matches using 1903, 1903-A3 and M-1 Garand rifles. After a match I will wipe out the barrel in the normal manner using Shooter's Choice w/ a rod, jag and patches. Because I shoot cast lead bullets in the 03 and 03-A3's, I wipe out the barrel between relays w/ a dry bore snake. The result is that the first round of a string always goes into the group. With the M-1 Garand I use a boresnake to clean the bore after a match. I do not take the rifle down except at the end of a season of shooting. This has allowed me to not have problems rezeroing my rifle in preparation for matches, etc. My M-1 Garand match rifle is a 5.9 Springfield (1956) that was rebuilt at LEAD in 1966 w/ a new SA barrel, etc. It routinely puts the first round from a clip of ammo into the group. I do not take it apart for routine cleaning for the same reason I don't take a bolt-action rifle apart for routine cleaning... it is not necessary/needed unless the rifle has been exposed to inclement weather.

Shotguns? I can't remember the last time I cleaned the bore of my shotgun. It is a 870 given to me by my parents in 1970. I have used it for all manner of shooting in all kinds of weather and conditions. Today it is in excellent condition. I've occasionally brushed the trigger group and wiped it down with a oily rag. From time to time I pull a Boresnake through the chamber and bore. But I can't say it is because the bore is fouled.
 
I like using bore snakes . That said I have 2 things to share. Both relate to old postings, from I believe dfariswheel.

First, the suggtion to use of copper Chore-Boy to clean lead or deposits gave me reason to really look at my 357 cylinder holes. The bore snake did not take the hard residue ring from shooting 38 specials.

Second, there was a posting of his, I believe, of a bore snake breaking in a barrel (no details as to length, caliber, as of snake, etc.). Apparently it could not be removed and the "patient" did not survive.

I think that I'll not recycle the bore snake so often. They aren't so expensive that I want to risk an old one breaking in a barrel. I can imagine one breaking in one of my 22lr and not being happy.
 
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You might consider placing a plastic straw or rubber tube over the Extractor before pulling the BoreSnake through the barrel. This will prevent the BoreSnake from getting caught on the Extractor. This is particularly useful when the BoreSnake is new and you haven't used one before.

This is an excellent idea. I actually have a piece cut off of a red large straw in my cleaning kit that I slide over the extractor when I use my bore snake. This is also beneficial when using a rod as it protects the extractor from getting marred as well as keeping the extractor from shaving pieces off of your rod.
 
It's been years since I "scrubbed" a .22 bore. The last couple of years I have used the BoreSnake on everything. Since every outing involves 600-1,000 rounds, I make two or three passes through the bore with the snake, blow out the lower with an air compressor and run a baby bottle brush in the upper. A cleaning of the bolt face pretty much ends the cleaning.

Major, is it really neccessary to disassemble the bolt when cleaning?
 
Was told by Hoppe's customer service that a very small amount of bore cleaner should be placed on it just before the brushes. Contrary to what most people would think liberal amounts of cleaner or oil makes it harder to pull thru the bore. The liquid soaks into the fabric and swells it. Now before anyone disputes this remember I am only relaying what Hoppe's said.
 
I use boresnakes on my larger calibers, 9mm, and up. On my .223 and .22lr guns I use a set up that i dont remember the name of, but it has a flexible plastic coated stainless steel cable, with brass ends. You slide the cable in the barrel from the front sight, when it comes out the bullet end, screw on your brush end dipped in your favorite cleaning solution, pull it thru, I do this 3 times, then add the swab tip and pull swabs thru til clean. Follow this with an oiled swab once and good to go.:D

NOW in order to keep harmony with she who must be obeyed, I use a bucket of HOT water and some DAWN liquid soap to soak my boresnakes in, then rinse with cool water and hang to dry.:cool:

UNLESS your investing in a divorce, never, never get your stuff with cleaning solvents and oils near the washing machine.:eek: That goes for diesel spills on shirts too.

Chuck
 
This is an excellent idea. I actually have a piece cut off of a red large straw in my cleaning kit that I slide over the extractor when I use my bore snake. This is also beneficial when using a rod as it protects the extractor from getting marred as well as keeping the extractor from shaving pieces off of your rod.

I think you guys would be referring to the ejector not the extractor.

Gotta love the bore snakes though.
 
Major, is it really neccessary to disassemble the bolt when cleaning?

Who said anything about disassembling the bolt?

Pull the BCG from the upper and use CLP and a toothbrush on the bolt face to remove powder residue. Blow out the firing pin channel with compressed air. Put a drop of CLP on each bolt rail and put the BCG bac in the upper. Five minutes, tops.

Keeping the bolt face clean is more important than the barrel.
 
Who said anything about disassembling the bolt?

Pull the BCG from the upper and use CLP and a toothbrush on the bolt face to remove powder residue. Blow out the firing pin channel with compressed air. Put a drop of CLP on each bolt rail and put the BCG bac in the upper. Five minutes, tops.

Keeping the bolt face clean is more important than the barrel.

Exactly what I have been doing.
 
How often are you guys cleaning your .22 bore? I can't remember the last time I have....I pull the bolt assembly and wipe it down with Weaponshield (Fancy CLP) wipe the receiver and put the bolt back in.... my 22's never seem to need bore cleaning.

Can't say whether this applies to the .22 caliber as much as it does with other calibers, but I found this borescope video interesting.

Hawkeye Borescope Rifle Inspection.flv - YouTube
 
I think you guys would be referring to the ejector not the extractor.

I started calling it the Extractor after watching the "Cleaning And Lubricating" video from Brett248vista. In the video, Brett248vista called it the "Extractor".

Doing a search on the web I found that Ejector and Extractor were used interchangeably. So, I pulled the patent:

The breech sleeve inner surface includes a longitudinally-extending ejector hook groove 135 for capturing the ejector hook 77 against the barrel when the breech sleeve and the barrel are assembled together.

Since part number 77 is identified as the "Ejector Hook", that's what I'll be calling it in the future. :)

Thanks for the motivation. :)
 
I started calling it the Extractor after watching the "Cleaning And Lubricating" video from Brett248vista. In the video, Brett248vista called it the "Extractor".

Doing a search on the web I found that Ejector and Extractor were used interchangeably. So, I pulled the patent:

The breech sleeve inner surface includes a longitudinally-extending ejector hook groove 135 for capturing the ejector hook 77 against the barrel when the breech sleeve and the barrel are assembled together.

Since part number 77 is identified as the "Ejector Hook", that's what I'll be calling it in the future. :)

Thanks for the motivation. :)

The ejector and extractor are 2 different parts. I wouldn't want people that are new to firearms getting their parts mixed up (not saying you're new to firearms) but you wouldn't call the trigger a hammer right?
 
I have no issues with corrections, corrections are always welcomed. My memory isn't so good, so that I have the correct terminology, would the following be true:

The "Ejector Hook" is fixed in place to the "Breech Sleeve" and the spring loaded "Extractor Claw" is attached to the side of the "Bolt Group".​

I wouldn't call a trigger a hammer, no more then I would call a magazine a clip. That's one thing I doubt I'll ever forget. :)
 
I like bore snakes and I use them all the time. Once a year on guns I fire a lot I soak the barrel in solvent and use a cleaning rod with brush. Once a year I take my bore snakes and put them in a pillow case and run them thru the washer at the laundry mat.
 
I just got a boresnake for my 15-22, and it was extremely tight when I tried to pull it through. I stopped since I didn't want it to get stuck. Is this normal, and OK to keep pulling hard on it? It is marked as 22 on the weight.

I tried mine one time in my CM9. Got stuck tight and I had a real hard time getting it out. The wire brush stuck just beyond the chamber. Had to back it out. It simply would not go any further when I tried to keep pulling it toward the muzzle. Haven't tried to use it again. Have thought about trying to trim the wire brush some, but haven't fooled with it. :confused:
 
Gunzilla wrote: If were to use the old rod method I would only use a brass rod cleaning kit to eliminate the possibility of scratching the bore.

Why a brass rod? All my cleaning rods are aluminum and have been for 30 years. Aluminum is softer than brass, way softer than steel and dirt cheap to buy. I don't see how any aluminum rod could ever scratch ANY gun barrel whether it be pistol, rifle or shotgun. I looked at bore snakes but I am more than content to use several patches. Once the patch comes out it gets thrown away. I don't see the logic of running a 30" long dirty "fabric patch" back and forth. I use an aluminum rod, plastic tips and a brass brush.
 
I tried mine one time in my CM9. Got stuck tight and I had a real hard time getting it out. The wire brush stuck just beyond the chamber. Had to back it out. It simply would not go any further when I tried to keep pulling it toward the muzzle. Haven't tried to use it again. Have thought about trying to trim the wire brush some, but haven't fooled with it. :confused:

All BoreSnakes are initially tight. Don't cut off anything; it's not necessary. Lightly moisten the head of the snake with your favorite solvent, do not soak it or have it dripping wet. It WILL pull through, although you may need to wrap the lead around something as a handle the first three of four times.

And make sure you are using the correct size. :)
 
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