The New Finishes and Solvents

[Narragansett]

I have been using a few of my guns almost daily, and while I do a good cleaning, it is time to give them a bath and use a small stiff bristle brush and compressed air. I could use brake cleaner but I have no idea how these new coated finishes will hold up? I am thinking mineral spirits, but would like some guidance before i do immerse the gun into some type of a cleaning medium. I have a gallon of WD40, and while I do not use it as a lube, it does OK on washing parts, and then blow out with air and properly lube.

Any comments would be appreciated. I just do not want to damage a finish

 

[chief38]

Pete, you don't mention exactly what "new finishes" you have. The best way to find out what is safe and what is not is to call the gun company that made it and ask. This way if they recommend a product and it negatively affects your guns you should have some recourse. I personally do not believe in immersing any steel product in a water based solvent either - just my own personal practice. Water and steel don't mix in my mind.

I don't immerse guns in their assembled state as getting them dry internally is a real issue without complete disassembly. Maybe individual parts that can be blown off with an air compressor but almost all my cleaning is done in the conventional way. My guns (with the exception of my Sig P365) are all older models (pre 1994) and they all have conventional finishes that are unaffected by Hoppes 9 solvent, so that is what I use. Usually Hoppes is only used when the vintage gun is first purchased and needs a thorough cleaning. After that, I routinely maintain them so they never get that dirty. However, once in a while the need arises and the Hoppes 9 comes out. I clean my guns after each shooting session - just the way I like to roll.

Wether brake cleaner or other solvents will have a negative effect on your gun's finish should take second seat to how they can cause health issues when used in large quantities. If you absolutely must use them, please do so outdoors. carb cleaner and brake cleaner are high on the "bad health risk" list! BTW, if you absolutely must use brake or carb. cleaner, I'd make positively sure you coat 100% of the metal with oil afterwards as the brake cleaner and alike will leave the metal bare with zero protection against rust.

When I return from a shooting session, I normally just use G96 Synthetic CLP. It is very similar to Breakfree CLP however I find that it actually cleans a bit better than the BF version. The lubricating and preserving characteristics are pretty much the same in both. That is usually enough to properly clean any firearm I have shot, but the key is I never put them back in the safe without a cleaning and they never get that dirty to require a soaking. Neither the G96 or BF CLP's will work fast or great on a neglected gun that has been extensively shot and not cleaned and that's a job for Hoppes 9. That said, make sure you can even use Hoppes on the "new finishes" - whatever they might be. BTW, don't mean to sound like a paranoid "Safety Sally" but no need to unnecessarily harm your health.

 

[Bald1]

Brake cleaner is no different than degreaser or any "GunScrubber" type product. Use it outside and it's fine. As to new finishes idk. But great for blued and stainless steel

 

[Narragansett]

Pete, you don't mention exactly what "new finishes" you have. The best way to find out what is safe and what is not is to call the gun company that made it and ask. This way if they recommend a product and it negatively affects your guns you should have some recourse. I personally do not believe in immersing any steel product in a water based solvent either - just my own personal practice. Water and steel don't mix in my mind.

I don't immerse guns in their assembled state as getting them dry internally is a real issue without complete disassembly. Maybe individual parts that can be blown off with an air compressor but almost all my cleaning is done in the conventional way. My guns (with the exception of my Sig P365) are all older models (pre 1994) and they all have conventional finishes that are unaffected by Hoppes 9 solvent, so that is what I use. Usually Hoppes is only used when the vintage gun is first purchased and needs a thorough cleaning. After that, I routinely maintain them so they never get that dirty. However, once in a while the need arises and the Hoppes 9 comes out. I clean my guns after each shooting session - just the way I like to roll.

Wether brake cleaner or other solvents will have a negative effect on your gun's finish should take second seat to how they can cause health issues when used in large quantities. If you absolutely must use them, please do so outdoors. carb cleaner and brake cleaner are high on the "bad health risk" list! BTW, if you absolutely must use brake or carb. cleaner, I'd make positively sure you coat 100% of the metal with oil afterwards as the brake cleaner and alike will leave the metal bare with zero protection against rust.

When I return from a shooting session, I normally just use G96 Synthetic CLP. It is very similar to Breakfree CLP however I find that it actually cleans a bit better than the BF version. The lubricating and preserving characteristics are pretty much the same in both. That is usually enough to properly clean any firearm I have shot, but the key is I never put them back in the safe without a cleaning and they never get that dirty to require a soaking. Neither the G96 or BF CLP's will work fast or great on a neglected gun that has been extensively shot and not cleaned and that's a job for Hoppes 9. That said, make sure you can even use Hoppes on the "new finishes" - whatever they might be. BTW, don't mean to sound like a paranoid "Safety Sally" but no need to unnecessarily harm your health.

Thanks Chief... Well I guess I am referring to what looks like a black coating that looks like powder coat. Dan Wesson calls it Gen 4. My guns do not get neglected, but right now, they are getting shot every day. I just can't tear down 4 guns for cleaning every day

 

[chief38]

Thanks Chief... Well I guess I am referring to what looks like a black coating that looks like powder coat. Dan Wesson calls it Gen 4. My guns do not get neglected, but right now, they are getting shot every day. I just can't tear down 4 guns for cleaning every day

I shot Cowboy Action S.A.S.S. matches for 20 some odd years. At the end of the match (usually on a Sunday) I spent at least 2 - 3 hours cleaning guns. We typically shot 2 single action army revolvers, a lever action rifle, a coach shotgun, and sometimes another pistol or rifle for a side match after the sanctioned match. So when I got home I was beat from waking up at 6am, driving hours to and from the match and shooting for 3 hours. The last thing I looked forward to at the end of the day was cleaning guns! 5 guns no less!!!

So now when I go to the range now, I almost never take more than two guns with me, per session. Two guns I can deal with easily and when taking two, one is always an easier gun to clean. Revolvers having 6 chambers plus the barrel are the biggest pain, so if I am shooting a revolver the other one is a semi auto. If you shoot every day - I can understand your situation! I normally shoot once to twice per week. The only thing I can suggest is bringing less guns out each shoot. At least it would make cleaning easier.

The bonus is with less guns per session is you spend more time perfecting each one - at least that is how it works for me.

I always go with 2 - 3 others and we usually shoot each others guns a little also. That tends to fulfill the desire to shoot different guns and still only have to clean two.

 

[Rule3]

Wen in doubt read the instructions.

Supplies:
• Cleaning patches - 100% cotton flannel cloth
• Cleaning rags - 100% cotton flannel cloth
• High-quality cleaning solvent (barrel only) Sol-
vents can discolor your Duty Finish Kroil is also
recommended and Duty Finish safe
• Oil based cleaner (polymer safe) for the rest of
the gun
• High-quality gun oil *such as FP-10, Militec-1 or
Dan Wesson Rail Lube
* Also required before shooting the handgun for
the first time
• We do not recommend the use of Rem oil, CLP or
Hoppe's elite gun oil on the rails of our firearm

My DW 1911 has the Duty Coat
There is no reason to immersed any gun in any kind of fluid unless you dropped it the ocean.

 

[Narragansett]

Wen in doubt read the instructions.

Supplies:
• Cleaning patches - 100% cotton flannel cloth
• Cleaning rags - 100% cotton flannel cloth
• High-quality cleaning solvent (barrel only) Sol-
vents can discolor your Duty Finish Kroil is also
recommended and Duty Finish safe
• Oil based cleaner (polymer safe) for the rest of
the gun
• High-quality gun oil *such as FP-10, Militec-1 or
Dan Wesson Rail Lube
* Also required before shooting the handgun for
the first time
• We do not recommend the use of Rem oil, CLP or
Hoppe's elite gun oil on the rails of our firearm

My DW 1911 has the Duty Coat
There is no reason to immersed any gun in any kind of fluid unless you dropped it the ocean.

Well, I am out of state, and do not have instructions with me. I was using Dan Wesson Gen 4 as an example. I own Dan Wessons, but they are stainless. I do not immerse guns on a regular basis, but it is an effective way to do a deep cleaning coupled with compressed air. Then properly relube

 

[Doug M.]

Once a year, our armorers would do a full cleaning in a sonic bath w/Simple Green IIRC. Most of the time I use SLIP products as they are non toxic, although I will use a more tradition solvent in barrels.

 

[chief38]

The one and only gun I own with a "new" finish is my Sig P365. I believe that has a Nitride coating and it has stood up very very well for me over 6 years and 8,000+ rounds. I have never used more than G96 Syn. CLP on it and that will not harm any finish know of. After a heavy range session, I sometimes will use Hoppes 9 in the barrel only and that is for when I shoot polymer covered lead bullets that I reload. Today there are so many different finishes that if I had any doubts I'd call the manufacturer. Most semi autos are easy, simple and quick to clean given they are maintained regularly. Revolvers take a bit longer due to their nature. If I know I will be pressed for time after the range, I will usually just take a semi auto or two.

 

[MyTurn]

Regular old Hoppes works well on Glocks and they use a nitride finish.