Locking block and takedown lever retaining wire

[Jabbit]

Regarding the takedown lever retaining wire - what would happen if I didn't have it in? The guide rod keeps the takedown lever in place while the slide is on. I understand that the takedown lever will fall out (with the slide off) without the wire, but is that it?

The reason I ask is because after my Apex FSS install, I can't for the life of me get the locking block out to replace the wire.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[mtnwinds]

First remove the sear block, trigger & trigger bar, and the slide lock lever. If you don't remove these parts you will find it difficult/impossible to remove the locking block.

The locking block is held in by a single pin. Once that pin is out the locking block lifts right out. Please post pics of your frame showing what the problem is.

I would not use the pistol unless the slide lock lever retaining spring was in place.

 

[Jabbit]

First remove the sear block, trigger & trigger bar, and the slide lock lever. If you don't remove these parts you will find it difficult/impossible to remove the locking block.

The locking block is held in by a single pin. Once that pin is out the locking block lifts right out. Please post pics of your frame showing what the problem is.

I would not use the pistol unless the slide lock lever retaining spring was in place.

Maybe that is my issue, I thought I could get it in/out without removing everything else. I guess I have to take everything apart again. I was trying to avoid that.

 

[randyr5]

I can remove the locking block on my 9c no problem without removing the sear housing. Remove trigger pin, take-down lever and tap out locking block roll pin, lift out locking block. The trickiest part is lining the trigger return spring back up with the trigger pin during re-assembly, but it can be done.

 

[Bkreutz]

I can remove the locking block on my 9c no problem without removing the sear housing. Remove trigger pin, take-down lever and tap out locking block roll pin, lift out locking block. The trickiest part is lining the trigger return spring back up with the trigger pin during re-assembly, but it can be done.

It's easier with a dummy pin which can be made out of a round toothpick. Make it the same length as the trigger block is wide, assemble the trigger into the block, install the block into the frame and then use the trigger pin to push the dummy pin out the other side. (if you get an Apex kit they include a nice little metal dummy pin but a toothpick works too)

 

[S&W Rover]

This happened to me, too! I looked everywhere in my garage for it. It must still be out there somewhere, a year later.

You can get a new one from Speed Shooter Specialties (Part 1755) for $3.30.

M&P 9/40/357 & Compact Take Down Lever Retaining Wire [1755] - $3.30 : Welcome to Speed Shooter Specialties

Or you could get a piece of spring wire and make your own, if you had to.

But it needs to be there -- the lever will work its way out eventually without it, possibly during firing or maybe during takedown.