Tell me what is wrong with my M36

[mrwissman69]

Looking for help from some of you more experienced gun guys. I received a Model 36 yesterday and while I was wiping it down after a thorough cleaning I noticed that with very little force I was able to manually rotate the cylinder. I'm pretty sure I shouldn't be able to do that as I can't with any of my other revolvers. Is there something worn out on the pistol? What would allow me to be able to do that? It is serial # 1272xx so it is a fairly old model but appears to be extremely well taken care of cosmetically. Thanks in advance for your input

 

[Retired W4]

No gun smith here, but you should probably look at the bolt stop. It could be worn or broken. Some people will file on it to try to prevent the stop from making the turn line. It could also be gummed up preventing it from fully engaging in the slots in the cylinder.

 

[linde]

No gun smith here, but you should probably look at the bolt stop. It could be worn or broken. . . . it could also be gummed up preventing it from fully engaging in the slots in the cylinder.

If the cylinder stop appears correct I would consider replacing the spring that pushes the cylinder stop up into the cylinder notches. Since S&W eliminated the screw in front of the trigger guard, it's a little tricky to replace that spring the first time or two. Some of mine have even been known to fly clear across the room until I learned to do the job inside a gallon plastic zip-lock bag to contain flying parts.

Good luck,

Russ

 

[mrwissman69]

Thanks guys. The cylinder stop appeared to be in good order upon inspection yesterday but I will compare it with the one on my 10-7. I had the side plate off yesterday to do a little cleaning on the inside and nothing appeared odd. Is the replacement spring you referred to readily available Russ?

 

[linde]

. . . Is the replacement spring you referred to readily available Russ?

Yes, I know Brownell's has it and suspect Mid-Way does as well. If you don't find one, send me a PM and I'll mail you one.

Russ

 

[mrwissman69]

Thanks Russ. I got on Brownell's website and found it for $1.61 It sure is amazing how a $1.61 part can turn into a $97 order after I realized all of the things I NEEDED lol. Thanks again

 

[snubbyfan]

Pop the side plate and give it a good detail cleaning, might just be gummy.

 

[Retired W4]

One other tip once you have the side plate off. Do not get the screws fore and aft of the trigger guard switched around. They may look the same but they are not. I tag them with a small note with scotch tape so they don't get mixed up. Good luck.

 

[mrwissman69]

Understandable about the screws. I had already had the side plate off for a good cleaning and detailing. After putting it back together and giving the gun its final wipedown was when I realized I could manually turn the cylinder. I will replace the cylinder lock spring and see if it solves the issue and go from there

 

[mrwissman69]

Update: I forgot to mention in the original post that the cylinder will rotate in the opposite direction that it rotates when fired or hammer pulled. Anyway, I had some time today so I tore the gun apart and replaced the cylinder stop spring from Brownells and I am still having the same issue. Any suggestions where I should go from here? Could either the ball on the cylinder stop be too worn down or the cylinder slots be worn?

 

[linde]

. . . the cylinder will rotate in the opposite direction than it rotates when fired . . . replaced the cylinder stop spring and still having the same issue. Any suggestions where I should go from here? Could either the ball on the cylinder stop be too worn down or the cylinder slots be worn?

If the cylinder stop is working properly the cylinder shouldn't rotate in either direction.

To check proper operation, open the cylinder and verify the stop protrudes thru the little window in the frame. With they cylinder still open, hold back the cylinder release and pull the trigger just enough to operate the stop. Do that several times. As the trigger is pulled the stop should initially drop down then pop back up.

If the stop operates properly, carefully inspect the cylinder notches and the stop itself for burrs that would keep it from seating properly.

Russ

 

[Sgt 127]

Grunge in the notches. Spring not seated all the way. Worn bolt. Yoke out of alignment.

Check to see if everything is installed correctly. With cylinder open, hold thumb latch back, cock hammer. Watch operation of bolt several times. It should be popping up smartly.

Close cylinder. See if you can lift cylinder off of the bolt.

 

[tony stark]

timing?

have you checked the carry up (hand), or maybe the timing. if the hand is not pushing the cylinder far enough around toward the cyl. stop?

 

[A10]

You may have some luck posting in the Gunsmithing forum. You could contact one of the mods to move this thread if you like......

 

[DAinTX]

You didn't mention whether or not the gun was working as it should before you detail cleaned it. If it was, I would guess you did something you shouldn't have somewhere along the line. There are a number of variables involved and it's basically a lucky guess if anyone accurately diagnoses the problem from a distance.

 

[mrwissman69]

When I tore the gun down to the frame to replace the cylinder stop spring the inside of the frame got a good CLP and nylon brush treatment so I am pretty sure this gun hasn't been this clean since it left the factory in 1973. I acquired the revolver only a few weeks ago so I am unsure of the last time it was in perfect working order. I have taken the next cheapest step and ordered a new cylinder stop from Brownells and will replace the one in it. I'm thinking that after 40 years of shooting the ball on the current one may be too worn to make proper contact with the cylinder notch.

 

[H Richard]

Have you inspected the notch's in the cylinder? Are they peened over on the edges?

 

[Fastbolt]

When I tore the gun down to the frame to replace the cylinder stop spring the inside of the frame got a good CLP and nylon brush treatment so I am pretty sure this gun hasn't been this clean since it left the factory in 1973. I acquired the revolver only a few weeks ago so I am unsure of the last time it was in perfect working order. I have taken the next cheapest step and ordered a new cylinder stop from Brownells and will replace the one in it. I'm thinking that after 40 years of shooting the ball on the current one may be too worn to make proper contact with the cylinder notch.

A gunsmith or armorer might be able to judiciously stone/file the adjustment pad on top of the stop's body, to give the ball more positive engagement, too.

I've also seen some really mangled cylinder stop springs inside older guns, and some that weren't positioned properly.

A gunsmith would also be able to inspect the gun and determine if you're trying to address a "symptom", rather than the actual (different) underlying "problem".

 

[flintsghost]

I have taken the next cheapest step and ordered a new cylinder stop from Brownells and will replace the one in it. I'm thinking that after 40 years of shooting the ball on the current one may be too worn to make proper contact with the cylinder notch.

In case you are not aware...The cylinder stop is a fitted part and must be fit properly in order to work. That is both for release by the trigger and for fit in the stop window and for stop fit into cylinder notches. It is NOT a drop in part like a cylinder stop spring. If you haven't done that before or aren't armorer trained, then you might want to find a S&W certified armorer close to you to do the work. When/if you find one he could check the entire revolver out for you.

 

[mrwissman69]

Thanks flintsghost. No I was not aware that it wasn't just a drop-in part. I sent an email to Frank Glenn out in Arizona about a week and a half ago but never heard anything back. I am in Indiana and looking for a competent gunsmith to look at it for me. I don't want some hack working on it. I am still searching