S&W revolvers of today vs. yesteryear-which are better?

I get to see lots if examples new and old. The old have a better finish by far and a few extra manufacturing steps and extraneous features that people equate to "old world" craftsmanship and superior products. Most of those features were unnecessary and largely an exercise of "because we can."

That said the new guns while downright plain in appearance by comparison and with simplified and streamlined production methods tend to have more consistent and straighter barrel to cylinder gaps, consistent lockup, and more precisely sized throats.

The romanticism is certainly lost on the new guns, but they make for great shooters and carry guns that can be used without remorse.
 
I like today's s&w revolvers there better made in terms of the manufacturing processes the metallurgy is better the machinery that is used to make them is better I like the one's that are made today.
 
I love my vintage guns, but one thing can't be denied. Metallurgy has come a LONG way in recent times. It would have been impossible to build revolvers that could handle cartridges like the .454 Casull or .460 and .500 S&W Magnums fifty years ago.
 
I think that there are technically correct answers on both sides of the issue. Some of the older guns, or maybe almost all of them, had a level of fitting that is fairly clear to the mechanically inclined, and probably superior to at least some aspects of fitting today. However, I have a relatively new (1994) 686 that is as tight on lockup as anything I've seen. I also have a 29-2 that is beautiful and in excellent condition, but I'm sure that the later 29s and 629s with the "Endurance Package" are basically slightly better guns.

I don't care for The Lock, but there are several ways of dealing with that error.

I have a 325PD with Hogue grips that wasn't available in the old days. I have a 1917 reproduction that has far better sights than real 1917s did. I don't know whether a 342PD is a tremendous improvement over a SB 37, but it does take +P (the 37 does not operate properly with +P) and it is lighter and smaller. Some folks consider that an improvement.

I don't think that you can paint either old ones or new ones as all better or all worse. As my brother would say, "Blanket statements are wrong."
 
I like everything old. They don't make anything like they used to.

For almost anything, we should be eternally grateful that they don’t make them like they used to. Wheezing, anemic cars, abysmal gas mileage, garbage bias ply tires, almost die braking, horrible handling, emissions monsters.

I should also mention, 4 cyl, 2 liter turbos kicking the tail of old 400 cu in “muscle cars.” Don
 
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I like today's s&w revolvers there better made in terms of the manufacturing processes the metallurgy is better the machinery that is used to make them is better I like the one's that are made today.

There you have the answer. Like stronger guns, built to far more repeatable tolerances with a far greater choice in calibers buy new. In love with deeper bluing and more attention to cosmetics, buy old. Don
 
In 2013 bought a new 63, a very lightly used 629-5, then sold a 29-2 I had owned since 1981. Voted with my wallet. New is better.
 
I collect the old, but shoot the new(er) examples (if one considers the 1980's-1990's "newer"). I like the fit, finish, and history of the pre-war Heavy Duty, .38-44 Outdoorsman, and 1926 .44 Hand Ejector. Prewar magnas are works of art, IMO. Pick up and hold a 1950 Model .38-44 Outdoorsman, .357 Magnum, or .44 Target sometime. "Elegant" comes to mind. Even the pre-28 Highway Patrolman, a working man's revolver, is a fine example of the craft. I can't say that the older guns are better than the modern guns in practical terms, just 'nicer.'
I routinely pound rounds through a 24-3, 28-2, 29-6, and 686-3. They are solid performers. I don't have any lock guns but wouldn't mind having a 21-4 or a shiny nickel 27-whatever.
 
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No doubt that the older revolvers appear to have more attention to detail with their hand fitting, mirror blue finish, and case hardening on hammers and triggers. However, the new revolvers are just as reliable and stronger than their predecessors. The internal lock seems to be a real thorn in the side to most of us. I think it is because of the location rather than the lock itself. It simply is placed in a place that stands out as we look at the revolver making it an eye sore to most of us. I would imagine that if S&W had put it in a less conspicuous place as Taurus did, there would be few complaints. Out of sight out of mind.
 
The newer ones aren't custom fitted? Could of fooled me when I feel what the other manufacturers revolvers feel like. I like being the one to shoot the new revolver first. I can lube the inner metal to metal contact parts with moly that reduce friction and eliminates all wear. This means there is no break in premature wear plus the action is very smooth by using just a lube.

Lubing with only makes the worse rough feeling action feel like it had an expensive action job done on it. Meaning moly can make an AK action feel smooth . You have to try this awesome lube. My guns never leave home without it. Applying moly on the trigger sears will lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as the only burnished into the pores of the metal. Once the only is in the pores of the metal it wears against itself it's only against only thus no wear.


My brand new s&w revolvers feel new and ok to me. Lubing them with moly makes them feel a tad smoother. I'll buy all the new s&w revolvers I can get. Each one is a decendant of the history of s&w. Your purchasing a new s&w plus the history and legacy of s&w. The IL never bothered me like I posted before if it saves one child's life its worth having. The IL isn't for us it's for gun safety to protect children incase they get there hands on it.
I'm all for anything that makes kids safer.

Be careful in the snow and cold, God bless, bill
 
The newer ones aren't custom fitted? Could of fooled me when I feel what the other manufacturers revolvers feel like. I like being the one to shoot the new revolver first. I can lube the inner metal to metal contact parts with moly that reduce friction and eliminates all wear. This means there is no break in premature wear plus the action is very smooth by using just a lube.

Lubing with only makes the worse rough feeling action feel like it had an expensive action job done on it. Meaning moly can make an AK action feel smooth . You have to try this awesome lube. My guns never leave home without it. Applying moly on the trigger sears will lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as the only burnished into the pores of the metal. Once the only is in the pores of the metal it wears against itself it's only against only thus no wear.


My brand new s&w revolvers feel new and ok to me. Lubing them with moly makes them feel a tad smoother. I'll buy all the new s&w revolvers I can get. Each one is a decendant of the history of s&w. Your purchasing a new s&w plus the history and legacy of s&w. The IL never bothered me like I posted before if it saves one child's life its worth having. The IL isn't for us it's for gun safety to protect children incase they get there hands on it.
I'm all for anything that makes kids safer.

Be careful in the snow and cold, God bless, bill
The IL is not there for child safety. It was put there to appease the threats of powerful beaurocrats with big financial backing.

Child safety is in proper storage and education.
 
Don't get me started!

I'd be dinged for sure.

John

KIT_GUN02-1280_zps703c0e43.jpg
 
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I'd say fit and finish are better on the old ones, as far as the mechanics go I think the new ones are a bit better. I have a few of the new ones and they sure shoot well. I have the new 625 JM, 24, 25 and 40 classics, 21-4, 22-4 and a 586 plus, all trouble free and good shooters. Sure I love the old ones and have a bunch of em but the new ones don't bother me.
 
I'm sure many don't consider these classics, but my favorites are those from the 80's and 90's. For me, that was the height of the revolver as a working tool. Before the age of the wonder nines began.

I really have no strong feelings about pinned barrels or cylinder recesses and I prefer stainless over blue.

Don't care much for the lock, but not because I think it will cause a failure to fire. I just don't like it because it reminds me of BS politics.
 
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First off, I have been, am now and always will be a fan of S&W firearms, especially revolvers, which are some of the finest ever made. Perhaps this has been discussed before but I would like honest opinions of whether the Smith wheelguns of today are a) inferior b) as good as or c) superior than those made several decades ago.
For example, I had a 586 no dash many years ago, which I regret selling, that was the best revolver I ever shot, bar none. Now I see Smith has reintroduced the 586 but wonder whether it is as good as the original. MSRP: $839. Here is the link:
https://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp...57779_757751_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
Smith also brought back the Model 10 as a "Classic" but it didn't sell well.
So, is it the internal lock? The manufacturing methods of today? The craftsmanship and attention to detail?

Any insights appreciated.

If you are talking about value to a collector, then there is no question that the arms of yesteryear win this battle.

If you are talking about steel quality, ruggedness, accuracy and longevity with hard use, I think the new ones, even with MIM parts, two-piece barrels and internal locks, easily win this battle. If you don't like the lock, it is a simple removal. There is just no issue with the two-piece barrels, despite the very tiny percentage of issues you might see on this forum about two-piece barrels. I do not recall seeing anything bad about MIM parts, or their suitability to the task at hand. What I recall about MIM parts is lots of people speculating or outright stating that they are not suited to the task. Since I have never seen any MIM part fail, I do not agree. Finally, there is the issue of the frame mounted firing pin and reports of failure to fire or misfires. Often, this is associated with reloaded ammo, a strain screw not tightened all the way down (or a shortened strain screw that is tightened all the way down) or an "after market" light mainspring, etc. Thus, I believe that such misfire problems associated solely with the frame mounted firing pin are "few and far between." I will point out that replacement of a frame mounted firing pin is FAR easier than the old riveted hammer nose.

Another, often overlooked, advantage of the modern revolvers is the life time warranty AND the ready availability of parts.

I understand that it is FUN to shoot "real" .357 Magnum loads (158 grains at 1,510 fps) through your pre-WWII Registered Magnum occasionally. That said, and while they are all made to shoot, it seems to me that shooting your pre-WWII Registered or whatever other "out of production" model you have should perhaps be sort of like driving your old vintage Model T. Enjoy occasionally, but probably not the best idea to use it for a family vacation to Disney, if you get my drift.

The following is from Herb Belin, Project Manager at S&W when they started using MIM. I believe it answers all of the subsequently raised questions, and it has been posted in numerous threads before. Despite it being posted over and over again, people just keep raising the same speculation about MIM parts, so here it is again.

*****

"I have read with much interest the many comments in this [Smith and Wesson] forum pertaining to MIM, MIM Parts and the use of same in a S&W product. So far I have come away with several impressions and they are, "people in general don't like/trust MIM parts", and, "no one has said why." I will take a stab at this issue and see where it goes.

As background to our decision to use MIM in some areas of our Mfg Process we took a long hard look at our "Life Time Service Policy". It was clear to us that any change in any of our products such as the use of MIM components had to show equivalent or better performance and durability to those components that were being replaced or the "Lifetime Service" would haunt us forever. The second consideration was to determine if the change was too radical a departure from S&W mainstream design.

For the performance and durability issues we decided that if MIM could be used for the fabrication of revolver hammers and triggers successfully this would truly be an "Acid Test". There is nothing more important to a revolvers feel than the all-important Single Action that is established between the hammer and the trigger. Mechanically few places in a revolver work harder than at the point where the hammer and trigger bear against each other. If these surfaces wear or lose their edge the "feel" is lost. Initial testing was on these two critical parts.

Over time we arrived at a point where our best shooters could not tell the difference between a revolver with the old-style hammer and trigger and the new MIM components. Special attention was given to their endurance when used in our very light magnum J-frames such as the early prototype 340 & 360 Sc's. None of our revolvers work their components harder than these small magnum revolvers. Throughout this testing MIM held strong and finally we determined that this change judged on the basis of durability and feel was a good one.

The second area of concern to S&W was our customer’s reaction to this departure from the traditional. Many heated, intense discussions resulted but in the end the decision was made to move ahead with MIM. The issue of cost was only one of the considerations in making this decision. Equally as important was the issue of part-to-part uniformity and the result of this of course is revolver-to-revolver consistency. We found that revolvers that used MIM hammers and triggers required almost no fitter intervention in those areas during final assembly and final inspection and trigger-pull monitor rejection rates dropped markedly on finished guns. From an internal process point of view it appeared a "Winner".

Let's shift gears for a moment and talk about the MIM process. It is unclear to me as to the reason for many of the negative feelings on the forum concerning MIM. Typically when people complain and aren't specific in the reason why, the problem is often created by a departure from the "Traditional". Perhaps that is indeed what is bothering some people when they view MIM.

The term MIM stands for Metal Injection Molding. It holds some similarities to Plastic Injection Molding and many differences as well. To start we would take a finally divided metal powder. This could be stainless or carbon steel. Today even titanium is being used in some MIM fabrications. We would mix the metal powder and a thermoplastic binder (generally a wax) forming slurry of sorts when heated and inject this mix into a precision mold and finally form what is known as a “green part". This part is roughly 30% larger than the finished part it will become at the end of the process. Interestingly enough the green part at this stage can be snapped in two with simple finger pressure. The green parts are then placed in a sintering furnace filled with dry hydrogen gas and the temperature is brought almost to the melting point of the metal being used. Over time the wax in the green part is evaporated, the metal fuses and the part shrinks 30% to it's final correct dimensions. At this stage of the process the MIM part has developed 98 to 99%of the density of the older wrought materials and a metallurgy that is almost identical. Dimensionally it is finished and no machining is required. However the job is not yet done and the MIM parts are brought to our heat treat facility for hardening and in the case of hammers and triggers, case hardening. Depending on the particular metal alloy that was used at the start of the process we apply a heat treat process that is the same as would be used if the material were the older wrought style. Final hardness, case thickness and core hardness are for the most part identical to parts manufactured the older way.

Lets look for a moment at how we achieve dimensional precision when comparing these 2 processes. The old parts were each machined from either bar stock or a forging. Each cut and every resulting dimension was subject to machine variations, cutter wear, operator variations etc. If every operation was done exactly right each and every time and the cutter didn't let you down you would have produced a good part but sometimes this didn’t happen, resulting in a rejected gun and rework or in the worst case an unhappy customer. With MIM parts you must still machine to very high tolerances and your cutters have to be perfect and your machinist has to be highly qualified but all of this only has to come together one time. That time is when the injection mold is made. Typically a mold for this process costs S&W between $30,000.00 and $50,000.00; once it is perfect every part it makes mirrors this perfection and you have, in my view, a wonderful manufacturing process.

Hopefully this description will help us all better understand the MIM process. Please forgive the spelling errors and misplaced punctuation. I have no spell checker on this and the phone continues to ring!

Have a Great Weekend,

Herb [Belin,
Project Manager, Smith & Wesson]


Additional Point:

Currently S&W is paying about $1.20/Lb for stainless steel bar stock. Raw MIM stainless steel inject able material costs $10.00/Lb."
 
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I'm sure many don't consider these classics, but my favorites are those from the 80's and 90's. For me, that was the height of the revolver as a working tool. Before the age of the wonder nines began.

I really have no strong feelings about pinned barrels or cylinder recesses and I prefer stainless over blue.

Don't care much for the lock, but not because I think it will cause a failure to fire. I just don't like it because it reminds me of BS politics. It's dyspeptic in the way that a picture of Teddy Kennedy stamped on the side would be.
I agree a lot with this post. It surprised me reading this thread to find out that some folks consider S&W revolvers from the early-80's still to be "today's revolvers" (in the context of this thread) even though they are ~30 years old and a lot has changed in 30 years. Yes, some of the models and numbers are still the same, but as I look at them, they aren't the same guns. Not to me anyway.
 
I have in my small assortment of Smith and Wessons' including an M 19-5 and a M 586 no dash. Neither of these have the classic P&R features. Yet both of these are excellent revolvers. In fact my 586 is one of my "ready" house guns, and that says a lot.

I would not hesitate to buy a new Smith and Wesson revolver right now, as long as I could inspect it before hand.
 
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