I purchase 1000 pcs of 1x fired Federal brass for my .38 Special. All is between 1.145"-1.151" in length. I just finished trimming, deburring/chamfering and expanding 500 pcs of it, which took 2.5 hours. Is it worth it to have them all trimmed to the exact same length, or is within .006" "close enough"? They will be fired in a K38 Masterpiece with wadcutters and 158 gr RFN cast. I'm thinking that if I have 500 done, I'll mark them as such and use them for wadcutters and the other 500 I'll just expand and shoot with RFN bullets. What are your thoughts?
.38 Special - trim or no trim?
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LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
My practice has always been to trim to minimum spec. This allows for uniform crimping and bullet seating with any bullet selection, and the cases can be used for several reloadings before anything else needs to be done.
Did you size them before trimming??
It doesn't hurt to trim and can help with uniform crimping but I never trim any handgun brass.
It doesn't hurt to trim and can help with uniform crimping but I never trim any handgun brass.
MyDads38
Member
I like to trim my 38 brass, so you get a uniform crimp on all. I especially paid close attention to my match brass, when I shot PPC matches. It's a real pain, but once done, you should get pretty good groups/results.
Waywatcher
Member
I sort by headstamp and call it 'good enough.'
The only handgun brass I have ever trimmed was my .44 special brass for use in my NVB Blackhawk, and it was mainly for consistent crimps and a square mouth.
The only handgun brass I have ever trimmed was my .44 special brass for use in my NVB Blackhawk, and it was mainly for consistent crimps and a square mouth.
klausinak
US Veteran
I'm with Lobo on this one, I trim all of my revolver brass when I get it. That being said, especially in 38 SPL, I shoot mostly range brass, so the lengths tend to be all over the map. If your brass is only varying by .006", I would think you've got more than that in 'slop' on your trimmer.
Just my .02
-Klaus
Just my .02
-Klaus
I agree with everything said, above. I will try to summarize:
IF you are shooting in sanctioned matches for ratings or score, then it is prudent to trim your brass (after sizing), sort by headstamp and case varieties (some .38 brass has a cannalure for 110gr or 148gr, etc.) What you want is consistency with regard to case dimensions, case length, and case wall thickness. That way, all seating crimps will be uniform, all case capacities will be uniform, and (if bullets are sorted by weight), loads will be uniform. In other words, omit all "determinate" error!!!! Then the error in shooting is YOURS!.
However, for Sunday at the range….don't bother…clean, size, decap, prime, charge, and seat & crimp…..shoot away!
IF you are shooting in sanctioned matches for ratings or score, then it is prudent to trim your brass (after sizing), sort by headstamp and case varieties (some .38 brass has a cannalure for 110gr or 148gr, etc.) What you want is consistency with regard to case dimensions, case length, and case wall thickness. That way, all seating crimps will be uniform, all case capacities will be uniform, and (if bullets are sorted by weight), loads will be uniform. In other words, omit all "determinate" error!!!! Then the error in shooting is YOURS!.
However, for Sunday at the range….don't bother…clean, size, decap, prime, charge, and seat & crimp…..shoot away!
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First - I'm am a bit OCD with my reloading practices. I have tens of thousands of rifle and single-shot pistol and shotgun loads under my belt, not much in the way of revolver or semi-auto loading. My trimmer has zero slop in it - Forster case trimmer - and I trimmed the first 500 pcs to 1.145". I suppose for consistencies sake I should really trim the rest of it as well, but I might set my digital caliper at 1.146" and only trim the pieces that exceed that length. And this is for shooting at the range - no sanctioned matches or anything like that. But I also sort my 200 gr. cast bullets into +- .1 gr. Which isn't all that hard when casting sessions and alloys are consistent...
jimbo728
Member
If you are trimming your new brass , size them first. Personally I have never sized any handgun brass and have not had any accuracy concerns. Sizing after trimming may change the case length but not as much on new cases as with fired cases.
Rifle cases always get trimmed, chamfered and deburred .
Good luck, Have Fun!
Jim
Rifle cases always get trimmed, chamfered and deburred .
Good luck, Have Fun!
Jim
Yep, rifle cases are always trimmed, chamfered, and deburred. These are not new brass, they are 1x fired from a law enforcement training facility, seller says they are roller sized, so I have not sized them. I ran a few through my RCBS carbide sizer to compare lengths before and after - no change, and no change in I.D. of the case mouth.
scooter123
Member
I don't trim any of my handgun brass. Yeah, in theory this does cause a variation in the crimp from case to case and that could theoretically have an impact on accuracy. However, I don't think I could shoot well enough to see any measurable difference even if I used a scope and good sandbag rest.
Oh, not trimming definitely causes a variation in crimp - that's not theoretical, it's simple geometry. The only other straight-wall cartridges I have played with are the .454 Casull and .357 Max in the TC Encore platform and the amount of crimp definitely has an effect on accuracy - but only with bags and an 8x pistol scope. 
It also depends on what bullets you are using. I guess I have trimmed some 38 Special I have to Remington target brass I use in a M 52 wadcutter gun. As I seat those flush I trimmed that brass.
For regular 158 gr LSWC bullets measure the size or width of a the cannelure. There is a lot of room there, so a few thousandths difference in case length is not gonna matter especially when you roll crimp it over.
If you use FMJ or plated without a cannelure then the case length really doesn't matter.
I have to Remington target brass I use in a M 52 wadcutter gun. As I seat those flush I trimmed that brass.For regular 158 gr LSWC bullets measure the size or width of a the cannelure. There is a lot of room there, so a few thousandths difference in case length is not gonna matter especially when you roll crimp it over.
If you use FMJ or plated without a cannelure then the case length really doesn't matter.
I've never trimmed my brass, but I have never bought new brass either. Mine is all saved from commercial ammo I've bought.
GCF
Member
The question is: "Good enough for who?"
Not passing judgment on anyone's loading practices in particular, but a lot of guys are content w/ "minute of deer" groups. You on the other hand, sound like a guy that would sell a rifle - if it wouldn't turn in 0.5 MOA.
I think you know the answer to your own question. Size it, trim it, & be done with it. If you are shooting target level loads, chances are the brass will remain fairly consistent, & last a long time.
Personally, I always try to work up the best "one ragged hole" accuracy load practical (even for a short barrel .38), before I ever do much else - w/ a new to me handgun.
forestswin
Member
That's the best answer right there
I was just going to say, I don't measure 357 or 38 special cases. I can trim, debur and chamfer in less time than it takes to measure the cases and mess with adjusting a crimp die and I don't like to adjust a crimp die batch to batch.
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