629-1 rough trigger return.

[sir fig]

I recently purchased a 629-1. The gun appeard to have been fire little if any. The double action pull is good, lockup and timing are perfect. I did notice that the trigger is rough on return. When releasing the trigger very slowly, sometime it will not return. I decided to remove the side plate to see if the lube had gunked up over the years. Everything was bright and shiny. I did notice that the issue occurs when the rebound slide tries to "raise" the trigger back to the "park" or home position. (Pardon my ignorance, but park is the best way that I could describe it)

The strain screw was 1 round loose. Tightening the strain screw made matters worse. Loosening made it, somewhat, better. I removed the mainspring and with light pressure on the hammer all is well, return is very smooth. I did not notice any rough spots on the hammer plating or the rebound slide itself. However, the rebound spring is not squared off on one end, the other end is wound squared. Overall length of the rebound spring is 1.001", measured to the spring tail that is not wound square.

I am thinking that this may be an incorrect or modified rebound spring. Other than that, I am lost in this matter.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, in advance, for the helpful information.

 

[Bearbait in NM]

Sir,

Welcome to the forum.

I have a rule with purchased used guns. I assume most of the springs are either worn, replaced or needing. I do this with revolvers and auto's. I just replace everything with stock, as I can find. About the only time I would deviate from this is if I know for certain the gun has some kind of replaced ignition parts like a hammer/trigger setup from a known aftermarket supplier.

Springs are generally cheap, and can be easily had from places like Brownell's or Midway. You have the ability to detail strip your gun, my suggestion would be to order up fresh springs all the way around. Then if you are still having problems, you will know that you have eliminated one source of problems.

Craig

 

[Alk8944]

sir fig,

Your problem is the rebound spring has been cut, it should have a closed coil at both ends! Simply buy a new factory rebound spring and install it and the problem will go away. The trigger in both double and single action will get heavier though.

A new rebound spring should be ca. 1.200" long, so yours has been cut a lot! When you call S&W for a rebound spring ask for a new "Strain screw" too as it is extremely likely it has been shortened too. The trigger probably would not recover at all if this wasn't the case. S&W is 800-331-0852, listen for the prompts for customer service/parts.

You can also get parts from Brownell's, Midway, Jack First and others, but they will charge shipping.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

Just be aware.....pretty much Everything is on backorder at S&W!

 

[tomcatt51]

I did notice that the issue occurs when the rebound slide tries to "raise" the trigger back to the "park" or home position. (Pardon my ignorance, but park is the best way that I could describe it)...the rebound spring is not squared off on one end, the other end is wound squared.

Really a pretty good description but it's the hammer that is moved back at the end of the trigger/rebound slide return into its' "home" position along with the cylinder stop re-setting. The rebound spring is doing this and has to overcome the hammer (main) spring to do it. That's why it got worse when you screwed in the strain screw increasing the main spring tension. More tension on the hammer for the rebound spring to overcome.

Definitely sounds like you have a rebound spring that was shortened a bit too much. Replacement time, either with a stock or after-market spring.

 

[sir fig]

sir fig,

Your problem is the rebound spring has been cut, it should have a closed coil at both ends! Simply buy a new factory rebound spring and install it and the problem will go away. The trigger in both double and single action will get heavier though.

A new rebound spring should be ca. 1.200" long, so yours has been cut a lot! When you call S&W for a rebound spring ask for a new "Strain screw" too as it is extremely likely it has been shortened too. The trigger probably would not recover at all if this wasn't the case. S&W is 800-331-0852, listen for the prompts for customer service/parts.

You can also get parts from Brownell's, Midway, Jack First and others, but they will charge shipping.

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate you confirming my suspicions. I will get a spring ordered tomorrow. The strain screw is the correct length, when measured against another 629 screw.
When I got the 629 it showed no evidence of being fired, well very little if any. I say that because the top strap does not have a mark on it. No darkening, scarring or flame cutting at all. Forcing cone looks bright and shiny with the machine marks still intact. No copper or lead in the barrel. If it was fired, much, someone did a heck of a job covering it up.

The only thing that I noticed, was on disassembly. The side plate screw, under the stock, was boogered a little. Of course, the rebound slide basically fell out. I guess someone decided that cutting the spring would make a substantial difference in the trigger pull. When that did not work, they got rid of the gun.

Again, Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it.

 

[sir fig]

Really a pretty good description but it's the hammer that is moved back at the end of the trigger/rebound slide return into its' "home" position along with the cylinder stop re-setting. The rebound spring is doing this and has to overcome the hammer (main) spring to do it. That's why it got worse when you screwed in the strain screw increasing the main spring tension. More tension on the hammer for the rebound spring to overcome.

Definitely sounds like you have a rebound spring that was shortened a bit too much. Replacement time, either with a stock or after-market spring.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, my bad, I meant to say hammer.
Thanks to all of you guys for the info. I really appreciate it.