Color Case Hardening

[tlay]

Does anyone know of an easy way to put some color back in an old hammer and trigger? I don't care about hardening because they already are but the colors are almost gone. I don't want to have to build an oven and use charcoal so is there an easy way? Thanks.

 

[arjay]

Ive read about doing it with a torch and a bucket of water or oil.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

There really is no easy way to do it,I have read for hours and tried many different things with a torch....no dice.

 

[Krell1]

This was posted on another forum:

Actually, I sent in the solution to this years ago, to Brownell's, and it is in Gunsmith Kinks 3. You can do it with cold blue, or the kind Brownell's has, as I accidentally stumbled upon it while cold bluing a part. What you do, is completely wet the part with isopropyl alcohol, making it puddle on the steel, and then, using a steel punch or screwdriver, you dip it in the cold blue, then onto the part within the puddle of alcohol. Something between the drop of cold blue, and the alcohol, makes it mimic case hardened color, and you use the punch to sort of make the patterns by moving it around. However, you should apply some clear polyurethane over it, once done. Take a look at Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks 3 for further details.

I didn't write this so I have no idea if it works. Cheap enough to try. Almost everything I've read said to stay away from heat since it can weaken the steel.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

This was posted on another forum:

Actually, I sent in the solution to this years ago, to Brownell's, and it is in Gunsmith Kinks 3. You can do it with cold blue, or the kind Brownell's has, as I accidentally stumbled upon it while cold bluing a part. What you do, is completely wet the part with isopropyl alcohol, making it puddle on the steel, and then, using a steel punch or screwdriver, you dip it in the cold blue, then onto the part within the puddle of alcohol. Something between the drop of cold blue, and the alcohol, makes it mimic case hardened color, and you use the punch to sort of make the patterns by moving it around. However, you should apply some clear polyurethane over it, once done. Take a look at Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks 3 for further details.

I didn't write this so I have no idea if it works. Cheap enough to try. Almost everything I've read said to stay away from heat since it can weaken the steel.

Good tip,That is a new one.I will try it and come back to report my results.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

I tried the rubbing Alcohol and cold blue,Nothing.....

 

[arjay]

A few of the well known refinishers will do it for $100 or so.

 

[semperfi71]

I have used a combination of browning and cold blueing.

I first "brown" the part. Then I polish away "patches" of the browning in a series of irregular patterns. Then I apply the blueing in the irregular patterns.

Depending on the steel of the part (its content I guess) I will get anywhere from a "faded" appearance to a bit stronger color. It does not correctly match real, quality case-hardening but on a weapon which already has wear of its other parts, or fading, it matches well.

 

[Boxhead]

Send it to Doug Turnbull (top one) Alan Harton (bottom gun)

 

[tlay]

Can you tell me how much to do a hammer?

 

[Old TexMex]

My father used to do it, and as a young fool,I didn't ask what went into the little steel box he heated with a rosebud or what all he put in the little can he quenched the hammer in.

 

[chief38]

Turnbull does the BEST colors I have ever seen but you will pay through the nose and wait and wait and wait and wait! Might be better off simply replacing the hammer & trigger with new ones - less expensive for sure!

Buying the heat source and supplies to case color just two small parts is a loosing proposition (at least from a financial standpoint) and unless you plan on doing this quite a bit, replacement seems like the wise way to go.

 

[tlay]

I would like to replace them but where can you get them in great shape? I have bought some from Numrich and they were in rough shape.

 

[Boxhead]

Turnbull does the BEST colors I have ever seen but you will pay through the nose and wait and wait and wait and wait! Might be better off simply replacing the hammer & trigger with new ones - less expensive for sure!

Buying the heat source and supplies to case color just two small parts is a loosing proposition (at least from a financial standpoint) and unless you plan on doing this quite a bit, replacement seems like the wise way to go.

Not my experience at all as long as what is sent in is properly prepped so all he has to do is the case colors and not file, polish, etc.

What did you have him do to form your view?

 

[chief38]

I would like to replace them but where can you get them in great shape? I have bought some from Numrich and they were in rough shape.

Fleabay has them.

 

[tyler4656]

I do Color Case Hardening. Smith Hammers and Triggers run 40.00 each and most frames run 20.00 to 250.00 I have a quick turn around time. I also do Bluing and other finishes.
Thanks Bobby

Tyler Gun Works
2255 FM 2397
Friona Texas
806-729-7292
[email protected]