Yet another question about my Model 18

[max503]

I know all about reaming S&W 22 revolver cylinders. I have a reamer, bought it from Brownell's, and I used it on my Model 34 which had very tight cylinders. That gun really needed it.

I've held off reaming the cylinders on my Model 18. Cases from standard velocity ammo don't stick appreciably. They do a little. I'll brush once or twice while shooting a box of 50.

If you read my other thread you'll see I'm having ignition issues. Maybe the hammer blow is using it's energy to fully seat some of the rounds in this gun. Maybe that's what's causing the misfires.

Any reason NOT to ream the cylinders on this gun?

It didn't seem to affect accuracy on my Model 34. I'm not keeping the Model 18 as a safe queen although I do take good care of her.

Should I ream this shootin' iron?

Edit: Maybe I should wait and see if the new mainspring fixes the problem. But still, I don't shoot high velocity ammo out of this gun because those cases do stick.

 

[WR Moore]

You might try to find & borrow a "GO" gauge. Or, just go ahead and gently apply the reamer.

I own a .22 lr barrel reamer because I've run into a couple of rifles that the chambers weren't finish reamed.

 

[lrrifleman]

Max, I have a Model 17 that I've used for NRA 2700s. Mine also has sticky chambers, requiring 3 to 4 chamber cleanings in a 900 point match. The 'Smith that I have always entrusted my repairs to has been gone a good 18 years, and I've not found another within a 4 hour drive that I would trust. Asking: what size reamer are you using to open up your chambers? I only shoot SV ammo.

Thanks!

 

[Protocall_Design]

Go ahead and use the reamer. If the chambers are already the right size, the reamer won't cut anything. If they are undersize, it will make them the correct size. Can't hurt, might help.

 

[max503]

Max, I have a Model 17 that I've used for NRA 2700s. Mine also has sticky chambers, requiring 3 to 4 chamber cleanings in a 900 point match. The 'Smith that I have always entrusted my repairs to has been gone a good 18 years, and I've not found another within a 4 hour drive that I would trust. Asking: what size reamer are you using to open up your chambers? I only shoot SV ammo.

Thanks!

I bought the reamer off Brownells. I'd have to do some homework to find the particular one, but all of theirs run $125 and I don't remember spending that much.
I'm going to see how mine does with the new main spring. If that fixes the problem, I won't ream it. If not, I will.
I'm OK with SV ammo.

 

[alwslate]

My18-4 had chambers that were so tight as to make the gun almost unusable with any ammo. After I reamed the chambers, removing a lot of material in the process, the gun is a pleasure to use and more accurate than before.

 

[sophie]

Nope, there’s no reason not to ream the cylinders on your Model 18 if it has sticky extraction of the empties. It should not affect your accuracy.
The fact you already have the reamer is a no brainer. Use your inside calipers and check the cylinder bores at the extractor end and you may answer your own question. You probably have a Manson .228” finish reamer if you reamed your Model 34.
If the cylinder holes show smaller than .228”, let’s say in the .225” range, you will benefit greatly by reaming the cylinders. There is much discussion on cylinder reaming with pictures if you do a search on the forums. Just be careful and not touch the extractor when reaming and use plenty of cutting oil.