Seems to hold up better.
Renaissance wax VS Johnson Paste wax
- Thread starter Bajadoc
- Start date
Seems to hold up better.
Wood or steel, Johnson's works. Don't know the ph value, small amount of naptha acts as a solvent, light surface rust disappears as well as label stickum off of metal or plastic.. Tool blades and handles, bare wood after oiling, butcher blocks, stripped grips and drawer guides all benefited from a coat of Johnson's. I've used it on cork. No problems on nickel, parkerized, matte or blued. Don't have stainless.
Like that old lady said about the hot sauce, "I use that stuff on everything!"
Like that old lady said about the hot sauce, "I use that stuff on everything!"
Cause it looks real nice.
If you do wax over Eezox, make certain the Eezox is completely dry. When they say a little goes a long way they are not kidding. Some people put on what they believe is a small amount of Eezox and it is still wet 24 hours later. You just need a thin film. If it is still tacky just wipe it down with a microfiber or soft cotton cloth. When done properly, I think you should still allow 24 hours for the Eezox to dry before waxing.
It does make the gun look very nice, but it's also serious overkill for the purpose of corrosion protection.
Recently I've been using both for guns I don't shoot a lot. I use a small paint brush to apply Eezox in the hard to wax areas, a 22 patch to apply Eezox in the bore and cylinder chambers. Then I wax the rest of the gun with Ren Wax. Just something I've been trying for fun.
66 shooter
Member
What he said.....I think....
DWalt
Member
Waxes in their normal state are fairly hard solids, and wouldn't spread at all. The various wax compositions (such as JPW, shoe polish, Ren-Wax, etc.) all contain substantial concentrations of a solvent such as mineral spirits to partially dissolve the wax and make it soft. Ever open up an old can of shoe polish and see the hard cake of stuff inside if the lid is not sealed? That's because the solvent evaporated leaving the hard wax behind. Therefore it's a good idea to let the solvent evaporate a while after application before you buff it. Personal feeling. Ren Wax and JPW are pretty much the same in their utility aside from the puffery. And the price.
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Any "Classic Car" person would toss both those in the garbage can, since they are the bottom of the heap in quality.
However for a S&W I guess they might be good enough........
However for a S&W I guess they might be good enough........
MichiganScott
Member
I switched over to Renaissance from J&J because the Johnson's dries with an orange cast and the Ren wax dries clear or maybe with a bit of a white haze.
Well these aren't painted Classic cars and if the major Museum’s in the country uses Renaissance wax on their gun collections and other objects than its good enough for me. However, I would also use Johnson’s floor wax as I don’t think it will not hurt your guns and a can last forever. That said if you regularly wipe down you revolvers and keep them cleaned and oiled they will last forever.
DWalt
Member
I guess I'll have to go see if any of my guns have turned orange after all those years of waxing. But my eyesight is not so good anymore.
_______________
No, they are all still blue.
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rog8732
US Veteran
I have no idea if what the hell you said, is correct, but man I like the way you say it !
DWalt
Member
In a past life I was a Chemistry professor.
BRush
Member
RW is microcrystalline wax and as the name suggests is much finer, and among other things is more viscous, flexible and thinner than a paraffin wax or lessor refined wax like JPW. It also has a higher molecular weight and bowling point. It is therefore more elastic and adhesive. These properties allow it to penetrate into tighter spaces and is why it applies in a thinner coating and seams to dry instantly.
JPW is certainly good and works fine in most applications, but RW theoretically better.
JPW is certainly good and works fine in most applications, but RW theoretically better.
DWalt
Member
Microcrystalline wax is mainly branched long-chain hydrocarbon isomers derived from petroleum. Paraffinic waxes are long straight hydrocarbon chains, not branch-chained, and are also derived from petroleum. Ren Wax is a combination of parrafinic and microcrystalline waxes. According to the Johnson Paste Wax MSDS, it contains both microcrystalline and paraffinic waxes (as Ren Wax does), and additionally Carnauba wax. Carnauba wax is a natural wax extracted from palm tree leaves (it is not petroleum-based), and puts a higher shine on the waxed surface. Both use a solvent such as mineral spirits as a softener.
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Springfan
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I do not know the origin of the statement that RW has a neutral pH, JPW does not. As this implies, if testing was done to determine the difference in pH, surely it must have been done in contact with aqueous medium, using some protocol not known to me, with the pH determined in the aqueous phase. At first, this seems to have no relevance to protecting the surface of a wax-coated revolver. I wonder, though, if the results have meaning when we consider condensate formed on the surface of the gun during storage? I am not able to bring my safe into my air-conditioned home from my unheated garage, so I trust a Golden Rod to keep the safe air temperature above the moisture condensation temperature. I have my doubts that this is the case all of the time, like when it's raining outside and someone drives a car into the garage. So, whether it's snake oil or the real deal, I use Rennaissance Wax.
I have a question though. In literature that I believe was made available via this forum several years ago, there was a report of testing various preparations for stopping rust from test coupons. The winner was Rennaissance Wax, but as I recall the best performance was by RW applied to a heated surface, then allowed to cool and dry before buffing. Is anyone putting revolvers in their ovens before applying RW? I guess when the grips start to char you know you should back down the temperature.
I have a question though. In literature that I believe was made available via this forum several years ago, there was a report of testing various preparations for stopping rust from test coupons. The winner was Rennaissance Wax, but as I recall the best performance was by RW applied to a heated surface, then allowed to cool and dry before buffing. Is anyone putting revolvers in their ovens before applying RW? I guess when the grips start to char you know you should back down the temperature.
jsfricks
Member
I've used both and now I use Johnson. Gives the same protection, doesn't leave a yellow haze, is lots cheaper and I can run down to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a 16 oz can for $7. As others have said, I don't only use it on guns and stocks. I use it on old toys, smoking pipes, antiques, furniture, heck, most anything I want to protect. It goes on easy and comes off easy.
Johnsons wasn't good enough for the museums.Which is why Ren was was developed.If one can painstakingly look for tools,paperwork and boxes at 20 times their worth,then you can afford to spend a little $ on the gun itself.
DWalt
Member
I don't know what the corrosion report was about, but there are industry-standard corrosion test methods which have been established, and for any such test results to have significance, they necessarily must be done following the exact industry corrosion test protocols, not some home-brew test procedure. As none of the wax components are water soluble, there cannot be any meaningful attributions concerning pH.
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Never thought of doing this before. Now I need a can of wax.
Are people waxing their pistols as well? How about long guns? Or is this strictly for revolvers?
I use Tom's 1/3 wax on my milsurp rifle stocks....we're talking the metal here, right, not the grips.
Are people waxing their pistols as well? How about long guns? Or is this strictly for revolvers?
I use Tom's 1/3 wax on my milsurp rifle stocks....we're talking the metal here, right, not the grips.
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