New BodyGuard 380 mp hammer seems off center

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I just got my new Bodyguard 380 yesterday. Got it out to clean before heading to shoot when I noticed the hammer seems off center (closer to right side) as I trigger pull. Does not hit edge of slide rear clearing, but close. Is this normal? Is it something to contact S and W with? In the pics you can see (sights lined up) as I pull the trigger how the hammer nearly hits the right side. Thoughts?
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Mine is exactly like that. It seems to have had no impact on the gun. In spite of looking kinda cockeyed, it does not contact the slide or any other part.

I've learned to appreciate guns for what they do, not how they look. I learned that after seeing myself in a full length mirror. I will never complain again.
 
Mine is like that, too---albeit maybe a couple hairs less to the right. I haven't had any problems so far. I would not worry about it.
 
Mine is like that as well and I've put 650 trouble free rounds of FMJ & HP down range. I never noticed until your post so I suppose it's normal.
 
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From S&W customer service.
This is normal as the hole for the hammer pivot is oversized to prevent any binding. It will sit off center but will function fine.

Time to go shoot. Maybe my OCD need for symmetry got the best of me.
 
I'm not even going to look at mine. It works fine and this will only bother me. I hope I can forget about this by the time I shoot it again.
 
BUT!!!......

As many of you may be aware, I have been posting about a long-term saga about my BG with 4 trips back to S&W for FTFire. They replaced it with a second one which has even worse FTFire.

Trying to get a handle on how the whole mechanism works, and what might be the cause, I spent an hour or so tonight field stripping my gun, and really examining the function of the parts. I looked again at my hammer, which I had previously noticed (thanks to this thread) was off-center the same way. I saw it is not only off-center, it is actually rubbing on the side and top corner of the slide channel, with the obvious wear mark to prove it.

I will try to post some pictures.

Could this be the cause of mine and many others FTFire issue? I would love to test the theory by machining a little extra clearance in there, either on the slide or the hammer, after getting S&W's blessing and promise to replace any ruined parts. (Good luck with that.)

Is it possible this is the problem with the somewhat common light strike issues with this gun? It makes perfect sense that if the hammer is rubbing along its travel that it would be slowed enough to not strike hard enough.

This is exciting!

David
 
David - Anything is possible and should be considered. Why would S&W give you their blessing to you machining a part of a new gun they manufacture? Their question to you will be, "if you are still having problems with the new replacement pistol, why aren't you returning the gun to us?" I know you have had 4 trips back to S&W and now a replacement pistol, but, if you like the pistol that much, let S&W make it right! There are no Lemon Laws when it comes to handguns, but that doesn't mean you have to be searching for the solution to your BG's problems either!
 
Rickgus-

I was pretty much kidding and fantasizing about S&W recruiting me to be part of their design team, and getting their blessing to do any work on this pistol.

I know it can seem nutty that I am obsessed about getting this gun working right, but as you know, this has been a puzzle to me for a long time. When I saw that the hammer was getting hung up, it seemed like an obvious thing to consider.

I have been working with a great guy on a Ruger forum, of all places, who really knows this gun, and guns in general. He has been walking through basically every component of the pistol, one step at a time. It has been interesting to learn the details of how this gun works.

I know it seems the smart solution is to keep sending it back to Smith. But that's getting old for several reasons. First, the Fed Ex place is at the opposite side of the county so I lose an hour and a half just driving there and back. Then I am without it for a couple weeks, and find I don't carry when I should because my second gun is so big, comparatively. Then I have to arrange to be home to sign for it when it returns. Then I have to arrange range time and spend $50-100 on ammo to test it.

It seems like S&W, as cooperative as they are, isn't really doing anything to diagnose what is wrong with these guns. They are just making their best guess, replacing a part or two, putting a few rounds through it, and sending it back.

Thanks, as always, for your ideas and support.

David
 
David - I hear your frustrations. Check out a thread on this forum, My Bodyguard Experience. There is a post #15 by Buckshot Shorty talking about his experience of his Bodyguard and light primer strikes, $25 fix. Might want to check that out! You could always reach out to him to see what he purchased to make his BG work!
 
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There is a post #15 by Buckshot Shorty talking about his experience of his Bodyguard and light primer strikes, $25 fix.

I put in the Galloway more powerful hammer spring, and their stronger, longer firing pin, but the problem was no better, and maybe worse, so I put the factory parts back in.

David
 
Back to the original topic.

Here are some pictures of the hammer. You can see the scuff marks where it's getting hung up on the slide channel. One of the pictures shows the other side of the hammer, which is untouched.

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I think anyone that has had chronic light strikes with this gun should examine their hammer to see if it is rubbing the same way.

David
 
I just checked my BG and the hammer is dead center. No wear marks on either side. I have never had a problem with it. Fires every time and locks back on the last shot. That just doesn't look right to be off center like that.
 
I'm not even going to look at mine. It works fine and this will only bother me. I hope I can forget about this by the time I shoot it again.

I wasn't going to look at mine either, but I had to get it out to see if I had a MIM barrel or forged (another thread). My BG does appear that the hammer favors the right side, but not touching. The little that I will be firing this at the range, as long as it continues to fire, I'm not going to worry about it! ;)
 
Take a small file to the side of the hammer. (or slide if you don't want to mar up the hammer and reduce its weight.. )

Mine also favors the right side and does rub slightly but not enough to cause any issues. Ill just let it break in that way. lol.
 
Rickgus-

I was pretty much kidding and fantasizing about S&W recruiting me to be part of their design team, and getting their blessing to do any work on this pistol.

I know it can seem nutty that I am obsessed about getting this gun working right, but as you know, this has been a puzzle to me for a long time. When I saw that the hammer was getting hung up, it seemed like an obvious thing to consider.

I have been working with a great guy on a Ruger forum, of all places, who really knows this gun, and guns in general. He has been walking through basically every component of the pistol, one step at a time. It has been interesting to learn the details of how this gun works.

I know it seems the smart solution is to keep sending it back to Smith. But that's getting old for several reasons. First, the Fed Ex place is at the opposite side of the county so I lose an hour and a half just driving there and back. Then I am without it for a couple weeks, and find I don't carry when I should because my second gun is so big, comparatively. Then I have to arrange to be home to sign for it when it returns. Then I have to arrange range time and spend $50-100 on ammo to test it.

It seems like S&W, as cooperative as they are, isn't really doing anything to diagnose what is wrong with these guns. They are just making their best guess, replacing a part or two, putting a few rounds through it, and sending it back.

Thanks, as always, for your ideas and support.

David

Why don't you schedule a pick-up at your house from fed ex and save the drive? I know that used to be an option.

And I hear you on the ammo cost to verify reliability. I keep going back and forth on which gun to get, a 15 ounce j frame 38 that I already have tons of ammo for, plus reload that caliber, or a 12 ounce BG 380. The gun feels like a dream to carry, but I don't want to spend the money on the more expensive ammo just to verify reliability, I'll never worry about reliability in a revolver.
 
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Being a S&W Forum with most post being about S&W products it would be nice if S&W would assign one of there upper level managers and maybe a CS person to read the post on this site. Don
 
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