My first Smith, trigger problem. Need advice. 10/23 Problem solved.

[ccjcc81]

With the cylinder open you should be able to press on the cylinder stop and push it down and let it up.

Does it move freely and easily ?

Yes, I can push it down, and it pops back up. Don't feel any resistance other than the spring.

 

[ccjcc81]

686s are known for having great triggers. I don't want a trigger job on mine because I'm afraid it would mess it up. I've never heard of a strain screw being THAT tight, usually they are loose because people back them out to do a 'trigger job' which causes problems with light strikes, as pointed out before. If the trigger isn't almost perfect when you've done what you can, somebody with experience needs to look at it. It's just plain wrong for a 686 to have that lousy of a trigger.

That's what I thought. I'll be sending it back. I'm going to shoot it first Tuesday, then it's going in the box as soon as S&W sends me the label. I contacted them yesterday.

 

[Hopper]

Sending it back is a smart move. I was having trouble with one of my NM66 Combat Magnums where the trigger was "knuckling", or stacking, right at the end of the trigger pull before the hammer breaks forward. Unbelievable... I had it back in under 2 weeks from the time I shipped it, and S&W did a perfect job, even touching up a couple birth marks I noted on the glass beading finish! I couldn't be more pleased.

FWIW, on both my NM 66 Combats, I installed the Wilson Combat spring kit, along with the 13# trigger return spring in the rebound slide. It's a very simple procedure that I can now do in maybe 15 minutes. I got that little revolver tool for the rebound slide, which makes removal/installation of the trigger return spring quick and easy. With no other polishing or monkeying around with the internals, I can't tell you how much that simple $20 spring change investment made for a completely different gun. If you live anywhere nearby and ever wanted to try it, I'd be more than happy to show you how.

Best of luck, if your experience with S&W is anything like mine recently was, you'll be pleased with the results.

 

[H Richard]

I'm betting (since this is a new gun) there is a small piece of grit from machining somewhere in there causing a drag, or a burr on some moving part. S&W will take care of it.

 

[ccjcc81]

Went and shot 200 rounds today. Had one light primer strike due to my fiddling with the strain spring to lessen the stacking in the trigger. Trigger was not nice. It was a tactical shooting session with multiple targets, like IDPA but without all the barriers. Double action trigger pull wasn't satisfactory. I'm still waiting for S&W to answer the e-mail I sent them Wednesday. Guess I'll have to call them. I was kind of hoping that shooting it would break off or wear away whatever burr is causing this. No luck. I'll keep you posted.

 

[5Wire]

If your mechanically inclined search You Tube for trigger jobs. S&W triggers are not overly complicated. If sent it back you probably won't see it back for months. I've done my own trigger work on all my Smiths and their perfect. You can get spring kits anywhere.

This is not good advice in my opinion. S&W can refuse warranty or lifetime service on modified firearms. Better to have them look at it beforehand even if you have to wait.

Spring kits are another thing, however, and can be removed and replaced with original parts.

Smith & Wesson will not be responsible for:
• Defects or malfunctions resulting from careless handling,
unauthorized adjustments or modifications made or
attempted by anyone other than a qualified gunsmith following Smith & Wesson authorized procedures, or disassembly beyond the Field Stripping instructions in this manual

 

[rwsmith]

Loosening the strain screw......

Loosening the strain screw might help the feel of the trigger, but unless it was overly tight (doubtful if would be THAT tight) I THINK THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM AND LOOSENING THE STRAIN SCREW HIDES the real reason for the trigger problems. Like I said, 686s are known for great triggers and that sounds like something's wrong

 

[HarrishMasher]

Just call S&W, they will email you a return label instantly and you will have your gun back in 3 weeks or less. Totally standard warranty work. I have done it 4 or 5 times with new S&W guns. They come back perfect in 3 weeks or less.

 

[ccjcc81]

Spoke to S&W today. Customer service was polite and efficient. Sent the gun back this evening.

This is the part where I whine and moan about having to send a new gun back blah blah I hate waiting blah blah. You know the drill.

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll let you know how it turns out in 3 weeks.

 

[HarrishMasher]

Spoke to S&W today. Customer service was polite and efficient. Sent the gun back this evening.

This is the part where I whine and moan about having to send a new gun back blah blah I hate waiting blah blah. You know the drill.

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll let you know how it turns out in 3 weeks.

My prediction, you will be very happy in 3 weeks. One thing for sure, S&W takes customer service very seriously.

 

[bigggbbruce]

My prediction, you will be very happy in 3 weeks. One thing for sure, S&W takes customer service very seriously.

Warranty work has about a 3-5 work day turn around as soon as received. My guess is less than 2 weeks including shipping time.

But I've had to send guns back more than once to resolve issues.

Hope they can feel the problem as you describe and first time may be a charm.

 

[ccjcc81]

Well, I got it back. Not fixed. I'm pissed. I'm not a patient person, and I don't have time for this malarkey. I admit, my expectations were high after so many fellow shooters telling me how much better their S&W triggers were than my Ruger's.

This is what I sent them:

I’m having serious trigger pull problems. When I pull the trigger, after between ¼” and ½” of pull, the trigger stacks up, and hard. It stacks so hard, and so early in the pull, that when I finally break through it, there’s enough force to spin that cylinder way, way too fast, and I finish the entire trigger pull with no control whatsoever. It’s as if I was trying to shoot the darn thing as fast as humanly possible.

When I pull the trigger with the cylinder open, I can see the cylinder stop drop at the beginning of the trigger pull. The hang-up seems to be right before the cylinder stop pops back up through its hole. When that stop pops back up, the trigger lightens and pulls normally the rest of the way through.

I just shot it yesterday hoping it would work the problem out, but it didn’t. The problem is just a little less noticeable now, but it’s still bad.

They responded "replaced hand."

So what should I do? Should I violate common human decency and sell this expensive defective gun to someone else, cut my losses, and go back to Rugers? Maybe the next guy won't notice the trigger hang up. Should I open this thing up and try to fix it myself? I really don't want to send it back to S&W and wait another 2 weeks to find that they still haven't repaired the problem.

 

[Mike_Fontenot]

So what should I do?

Call, and get permission to send it back again. Shouldn't have to, but that's still the best thing to do, I think. Sounds like Kimber customer service, not S&W customer service.

 

[Hapworth]

...So what should I do? Should I violate common human decency and sell this expensive defective gun to someone else, cut my losses, and go back to Rugers? Maybe the next guy won't notice the trigger hang up. Should I open this thing up and try to fix it myself? I really don't want to send it back to S&W and wait another 2 weeks to find that they still haven't repaired the problem.

Why would you have to "violate common human decency" -- you can sell with full disclosure.

I know S&W lockwork so I'd open it up and see if I could locate the cause. If that's out of your comfort zone, hunt around and see if there's a qualified revolversmith in your area and have him take a look.

Otherwise, yes, another trip to the mother ship; I sympathize with your frustration, usually they do get it right, and in the land of firearms repair two weeks is a ridiculously fast turnaround.

 

[kaaskop49]

"Replaced hand."

My 360 Sc went back 2X, and each time, it returned with the repair chit saying "Replaced hand." Other posters sending items back to S&W have reported the same "solution." IMO, this is the standard knee-jerk initial response. Almost like the initial "dehydration" diagnosis in the ER.

If you like the gun, take it to a local 'smith and have it done correctly.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[ccjcc81]

Do the 66 and the 686 use the same hand spring, the coil spring inside the trigger that puts tension on the hand? I lost mine.

I decided to open it up. Probably the wrong decision, but I thought I'd give it a stoning before sending it back again. That smoothed 99% of the trigger pull up, but made the hitch stick out like a sore thumb. Now it's like there's a 1911 trigger break in the middle of the trigger pull. If I could just get that out of there, This trigger would be like butter. I'm going to keep looking at it. I learned that it's not the interaction between the trigger and the cylinder stop. With the rest of the guts out of it, the trigger moves the cylinder stop without a hitch, especially after some gentle stoning. It must have simply been a coincidence that the hitch happens at the same time that the trigger releases the cylinder stop. I'm stumped.

I just ordered a new hand spring, but I'd like to test out what I've done so far, so can I pull the hand spring out of a 66 and try it in my 686?

Why would you have to "violate common human decency" -- you can sell with full disclosure.

I'd loose a ton of money if I did that. As soon as I finally found this gun in stock I paid full retail for it. $759 + tax. I'm not a good enough salesperson to tell a buyer that I bought this gun, don't want it now because it's defective and the manufacturer can't fix it, and still recoup my money on it.

 

[regalsc]

I sent one back came back partially fixed. Called them they paid again to ship it & now it is fixed. I just sent a used gun I bought they paid both ways put in new ejector rod new extractor new center pin & new locking bolt all free. Don't give up & it will be fixed right. S&W CS has always been great with me & fast. I do have patience with them on the phone though.

 

[Pef]

Do the 66 and the 686 use the same hand spring, the coil spring inside the trigger that puts tension on the hand? I lost mine.

I decided to open it up. Probably the wrong decision, but I thought I'd give it a stoning before sending it back again. That smoothed 99% of the trigger pull up, but made the hitch stick out like a sore thumb. Now it's like there's a 1911 trigger break in the middle of the trigger pull. If I could just get that out of there, This trigger would be like butter. I'm going to keep looking at it. I learned that it's not the interaction between the trigger and the cylinder stop. With the rest of the guts out of it, the trigger moves the cylinder stop without a hitch, especially after some gentle stoning. It must have simply been a coincidence that the hitch happens at the same time that the trigger releases the cylinder stop. I'm stumped.

I just ordered a new hand spring, but I'd like to test out what I've done so far, so can I pull the hand spring out of a 66 and try it in my 686?



I'd loose a ton of money if I did that. As soon as I finally found this gun in stock I paid full retail for it. $759 + tax. I'm not a good enough salesperson to tell a buyer that I bought this gun, don't want it now because it's defective and the manufacturer can't fix it, and still recoup my money on it.

Try not to actuate the trigger too much without the sideplate on, especially if you have the leaf spring on the hammer. Without the side plate you will place a lot of shear stress on the trigger pivot pin, hammer pivot pin and rebound slide pin.

You really ought to send it back to Smith and have them do a round II. If you keep stoning and tinkering, you may end up breaking something and voiding your warranty.

Frustrating, but it happens. I've had to send guns back to Remington and Henry in addition to S&W, so this is not a S&W only problem.

Good luck.

 

[shawn mccarver]

The fact is that none of us really know what is wrong, if anything, without feeling the trigger stroke.

This is what I know: loosening the mainspring strain screw is never a solution, and usually leads to all sorts of other problems.

Apart from that, a gunsmith experienced in the S&W action should look it over.

Here is a suggestion: send it to Mr. Smith down in Texas and see how it comes back from him.

LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing

 

[hoc9sw]

If you send it back (again), and don't fire / modify it, you can honestly say it had been sent back while you had it, and you think it is fixed. My LGS has a policy on used / consignment - you must agree to buy it back if you did not disclose a known problem that causes issues for the next buyer.

I put any return paperwork (with id details blocked out) with anything I consign.

I don't push "buyer beware" too far. Firearms can get you into a world of hurt.