pre model 10 2in problem

[Aircrewman]

Just read this thread and now I have a headache...... Oh, Oh, Oh, the intricacies of the Smith revolver... I never want to open one...Never, never, never!

I really do appreciate those of you who have and can help those of us who try to understand these fine revolvers. Did I say that NEVER want to open one...

 

[srnotjr]

Hi folks...just an update on the problem, my gunsmith has not been able to check it out yet but promises to do so some time next week.. Thanks for all suggestions and I will post outcome when finished.

 

[H Richard]

In addition to checking for dirt, check the spring and plunger in the rear of the bolt to insure it's in place . . . I've had the plunger launch when removed.

Russ

edit to add: not sure that feature is present on the early post-WWII Model 10s . . . depends on when the hand with the pin was implemented.

Russ, If you mean the spring and plunger in the back of the bolt, yes, they are the same (in principal) even back to the 1899 1st Model M&P.

 

[Big Cholla]

The internals of S&W revolvers are much more complicated than any of their semi-autos. Then while the frame dimensions have stayed more or less the same, many revisions of internal parts have been introduced. That then causes the unintended consequence of the wrong part being swapped into the wrong frame by a not very knowledgeable 'parts changer'. IMHO, you ought to get a very well done expanded parts view sheet on your exact model and dash number and compare each and every part with the sheet. And, as been mentioned, compare the placement and execution while working the action with every spring. You do know that you can take the side plate off and watch everything work while dry firing the handgun? Also, at one time there was a clear plastic side plate available to allow one to observe the handgun's internals while being fired by someone else. Just be careful of the cylinder/barrel blow-by products.

 

[linde]

. . . need some help in diagnosing a problem with my M&P pre model 10 2in. SN# S 912xxx . . . Empty the gun functions perfectly, timed, no end shake and a smooth DA pull. At range, fired 1st round (38 rem wadcutter), then gun would not cycle. The cylinder would not turn unless you open up the cylinder, which came out freely, and reclose it. Then another round and locks up again . . .

In my first reading of the problem I focused on "the cylinder would not turn". I'm not sure why but assumed the trigger was operating normally . . . so concluded the hand was simply not engaging the cylinder ratchet. Two possible explanations . . . the hand torsion spring was not engaged or the hand was being pushed away from the ratchet because the cylinder bolt was not fully to the rear.

Then I read it "locks up" which tells me the trigger & hammer will not operate normally . . . confirming to me the bolt is not fully to the rear and is blocking the hammer. The suggestion by tputto to hold the cylinder release to the rear and attempting to fire the second round would confirm that.

I believe the root cause is the small spring on the center pin that is designed to push the center pin firmly into the recoil shield . . . which in turn pushes the bolt far enough to the rear to clear the hammer block on the bolt.

I suspect the small diameter spring was either left out or (and don't ask me how I know this) on the wrong end of the center pin.

Russ

 

[linde]

edit to add: not sure that feature is present on the early post-WWII Model 10s . . . depends on when the hand with the pin was implemented.

Russ, If you mean the spring and plunger in the back of the bolt, yes, they are the same (in principal) even back to the 1899 1st Model M&P.

Actually I was thinking of the pin on the side of the hand. I've since verified the pin was not on early post-war M&Ps . . . not sure when the change was made.

Russ

 

[srnotjr]

update...My gunsmith still not has had the time to fully checkout my revolver. He has been swamped with an estate purchase and needs to take care of that first. I will give him another week or so and then take it back to try all the great suggestions expressed here. Thanks again for all the help . I will post outcome.

 

[mikepriwer]

I agree with several of the comments. Make sure the thumbpiece is fully to the rear
after each shot. If its not, that will definitely lock the hammer from being cocked, and
therein locking up the entire action.

Mike Priwer

 

[chief38]

Make SURE the Hand Spring is correctly positioned! Make SURE no Burrs are on any movings parts causing a hang-up.

 

[gmborkovic]

You are checking everything I would. Just for grins , take a look at
firing pin hole. Little big or a burr? Change your brand of ammo.

 

[tlay]

Just tell your gunsmith to tear the whole thing apart and clean everything! Just kidding, I think!

 

[srnotjr]

Success!! My smith got the revolver back to me yesterday afternoon. There were several problems with the revolver. First, he replaced the bolt spring as it was too short and may not have been a factory part. He increased the cyl-brl gap as it was less then .002 to .004 .He said that the spec were .003 to .006 . he also said the forcing cone was ok but at a minimum and suggested only lead ammo for this gun.

I took it to the range and 50 rounds of Rem lead round nose 158gr worked perfectly.

Thanks to all . Really a great forum.