SAWBONES
Member
No single "best" J-frame.
Someone whose main interest in a J-frame is easy and convenient CCW use may want an Airweight 442 or 642, or even an AirLite like the 340PD.
Someone who actually intends to shoot a J-frame much will likely prefer an all steel gun, though.
In any case, I'd recommend getting a .38 Special model rather than a .357, since the likelihood of actually shooting much .357 in a J-frame is small for most people, even in a 3" Model 60. (Sure, it can be done, but it's unpleasant and there are better frame choices for dedicated .357 shooting.)
I've said this before, but shooting .38 Special in a revolver cylinder made for .357 Magnum is in essence having redundant freebore, with a longer distance to the forcing cone and extra gas leakage (and perhaps reduced accuracy) being the result.
Most people who buy .357 J-frames actually shoot .38 Special loads in them, so might as well get a J-frame solely designed to shoot that cartridge. JMHO.
Someone whose main interest in a J-frame is easy and convenient CCW use may want an Airweight 442 or 642, or even an AirLite like the 340PD.
Someone who actually intends to shoot a J-frame much will likely prefer an all steel gun, though.
In any case, I'd recommend getting a .38 Special model rather than a .357, since the likelihood of actually shooting much .357 in a J-frame is small for most people, even in a 3" Model 60. (Sure, it can be done, but it's unpleasant and there are better frame choices for dedicated .357 shooting.)
I've said this before, but shooting .38 Special in a revolver cylinder made for .357 Magnum is in essence having redundant freebore, with a longer distance to the forcing cone and extra gas leakage (and perhaps reduced accuracy) being the result.
Most people who buy .357 J-frames actually shoot .38 Special loads in them, so might as well get a J-frame solely designed to shoot that cartridge. JMHO.