Need help choosing good 1st Revolver for a beginner..

(y) Wow! Very appreciative of all the recommendations and reasoning. A whole lot to digest and consider. It does appear the majority are recommending the SW 686. Not sure of the stainless though, how is it in the sunlight? Maybe the blued 586. Looking forward to next range trip and renting a few models that have been recommended. In the meantime, here is another question. DA/SA or DA only? Which would be best to start with? The wrangler I have in 22 is SA only. Fun plinker, so glad I saw Hickok 45's video/demonstration on cylinder gap blast avoidance. " Thank You" to all. Joe

It's a lot less demanding finish for your care and attention and while more shiny, it's not like blued guns can't reflect light. Some 600 - 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper can take out scratches (if you're aware of the grain pattern of the original finish).
 
Why would you hand a potential new revolver shooter the most boring, bland, bottom shelf revolver in the S&W lineup? They’re so passé it’s comical. No new revolver owner goes into an LGS looking for a model 10 these days.
Jim Cirillo would disagree.

Starting with the basics creates a better foundation to build experience with.

Fun Fact: most people who have a Chevrolet Corvette cannot drive it to 100% efficiency. They are better off with a Honda Civic.
 
Would add adjustable sights on a range or field gun, fixed sights on a carry. Stainless is more practical but blue is usually prettier [until it gets messed up].
 
For a first revolver for a beginner, I think you simply cannot beat a good used K frame .22LR of any flavor - K22, M17, M18, or M617 with either a 4" or 6" barrel. I would also encourage them to select either target or combat style stocks rather than Magna style. This way, the new shooter learns the basics of trigger control, grip and shooting form with inexpensive ammo, so they will be more likely to shoot more often. The .22LR avoids them developing a flinch that hinders them developing shooting skills.

Once they determine whether shooting handguns is "in their blood" or not, they can then follow-up with a 586 or 686 in the same barrel length as their next revolver purchase. Since K & L frame shares the same size and style grips and trigger feel, weight, and balance will be about the same, and K and L is close to the same overall size, the K frame .22 is an excellent training tool that helps them shoot the .357/.38 better. The L frame .357 will then feel familiar with all the rimfire practice.
 
My new son-in-law has requested a 9mm from me. For which I have set aside a M&P I no longer shoot. However, because he has never owned a firearm, and we are definitely going to train and remedy that situation …
I would just focus on the one platform for him, just the 9mm pistol. Let him master that because the odds are 50/50 if he becomes a gun enthusiast. None of my S-I-L have an interest.
I was thinking of gifting him my nickel plated Model 13. Iron sights so he can’t fiddle with and mess up the adjustable, and the ability to start with 38 Special and move on to 357 Magnum later.
Otherwise a 13 is a great choice. But all my children and grandchildren have no interest in revolvers.
 
My .02 and worth hopefully a little more.

I'm firmly in the K or L-frame camp based on 'beginner' and 'possible home defense'.
There is a wide variety of .38 Spl cartridges commerically available, from mild to pretty powerful with a range of bullet wieghts from 110 to 158 for the most part.
There is no question that .357 defensive cartidges are going to be more powerful. But you should make sure the chamber is clean before switching. The question is whether that option is important enough to you that you want to rule out th e.38 Spl only revolvers. While its more powerful, there are downsides to that even in a defensive use. I don't know your home situation, your strengths, etc.,

For a beginner I agree that while the adjustable sights can be a little easier to see, a fixed site can be fine, and has the advantage of being fixed. I see nothing wrong with having both SA and DA expecially if you plan on doing bullseye shooting. You're shooting single action now so this may let you build on what you know. I agree that DA is what you want to practice most on, unless you decide to pursue bullseye. But you can use bullseye targets and distances as way to challenge yourself. As far as practicing good trigger, holding sight picture, follow through and building strength, I'm not convinced a .22 k-frame is needed. You can dry fire the revolver to you're heart's content and everything is the same as live fire except for the bang and the recoil. I use dummy rounds even in my centerfire firearms as I feel it may provide a little more protection, adds weight, and also allows practicing loading and unloading.
 
(y) Wow! Very appreciative of all the recommendations and reasoning. A whole lot to digest and consider. It does appear the majority are recommending the SW 686. Not sure of the stainless though, how is it in the sunlight? Maybe the blued 586. Looking forward to next range trip and renting a few models that have been recommended. In the meantime, here is another question. DA/SA or DA only? Which would be best to start with? The wrangler I have in 22 is SA only. Fun plinker, so glad I saw Hickok 45's video/demonstration on cylinder gap blast avoidance. " Thank You" to all. Joe
1. Sunlight will not matter as it's in a holster. I shoot outdoors all the time and it has lines on top that break up the sun and it's matte finish on top. I posted mine in sunlight so you can see what I mean.

2. Blued is going to be more maintenance with rust and protecting the finish, but some prefer the look which is fine.

3. Having owned DA only/SA only and the 686 which can do both I would recommend one that can do both or DA only for home defense. Even with the 686 I practice 90% DA because in a real home defense situation you aren't going to want to or have time to cock the hammer. When I scared off the potential home invader, had I cocked it then I would have had the headache of safely de-cocking it on a loaded chamber as you can't open the cylinder in that state.

If you like 22 the 43c is a J Frame in 22 with 8 shots. Almost no recoil and unbelievably light.
 

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Add me to the 4" K or L frame fixed site club. Virtually indestructible, simple to use, plenty of ammo to choose from for practice or carry. You can still find police trade-ins reasonably priced. Becoming proficient in shooting D/A will improve your accuracy. Good luck and have fun
 
Another vote for an older Model 10 ( or 64), with 4" barrel. They're classics, pretty economical, not much more to tote versus a snubbie, but vastly more shootable, for both the range,and self defense. It checks all the boxes, with no downside.
 
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