Need help choosing good 1st Revolver for a beginner..

[SWOH]

Wow! Very appreciative of all the recommendations and reasoning. A whole lot to digest and consider. It does appear the majority are recommending the SW 686. Not sure of the stainless though, how is it in the sunlight? Maybe the blued 586. Looking forward to next range trip and renting a few models that have been recommended. In the meantime, here is another question. DA/SA or DA only? Which would be best to start with? The wrangler I have in 22 is SA only. Fun plinker, so glad I saw Hickok 45's video/demonstration on cylinder gap blast avoidance. " Thank You" to all. Joe

It's a lot less demanding finish for your care and attention and while more shiny, it's not like blued guns can't reflect light. Some 600 - 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper can take out scratches (if you're aware of the grain pattern of the original finish).

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Why would you hand a potential new revolver shooter the most boring, bland, bottom shelf revolver in the S&W lineup? They’re so passé it’s comical. No new revolver owner goes into an LGS looking for a model 10 these days.

Jim Cirillo would disagree.

Starting with the basics creates a better foundation to build experience with.

Fun Fact: most people who have a Chevrolet Corvette cannot drive it to 100% efficiency. They are better off with a Honda Civic.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Would add adjustable sights on a range or field gun, fixed sights on a carry. Stainless is more practical but blue is usually prettier [until it gets messed up].

 

[Thaddeus Beauregard]

For a first revolver for a beginner, I think you simply cannot beat a good used K frame .22LR of any flavor - K22, M17, M18, or M617 with either a 4" or 6" barrel. I would also encourage them to select either target or combat style stocks rather than Magna style. This way, the new shooter learns the basics of trigger control, grip and shooting form with inexpensive ammo, so they will be more likely to shoot more often. The .22LR avoids them developing a flinch that hinders them developing shooting skills.

Once they determine whether shooting handguns is "in their blood" or not, they can then follow-up with a 586 or 686 in the same barrel length as their next revolver purchase. Since K & L frame shares the same size and style grips and trigger feel, weight, and balance will be about the same, and K and L is close to the same overall size, the K frame .22 is an excellent training tool that helps them shoot the .357/.38 better. The L frame .357 will then feel familiar with all the rimfire practice.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

My new son-in-law has requested a 9mm from me. For which I have set aside a M&P I no longer shoot. However, because he has never owned a firearm, and we are definitely going to train and remedy that situation …

I would just focus on the one platform for him, just the 9mm pistol. Let him master that because the odds are 50/50 if he becomes a gun enthusiast. None of my S-I-L have an interest.

I was thinking of gifting him my nickel plated Model 13. Iron sights so he can’t fiddle with and mess up the adjustable, and the ability to start with 38 Special and move on to 357 Magnum later.

Otherwise a 13 is a great choice. But all my children and grandchildren have no interest in revolvers.

 

[Matt_X]

My .02 and worth hopefully a little more.

I'm firmly in the K or L-frame camp based on 'beginner' and 'possible home defense'.
There is a wide variety of .38 Spl cartridges commerically available, from mild to pretty powerful with a range of bullet wieghts from 110 to 158 for the most part.
There is no question that .357 defensive cartidges are going to be more powerful. But you should make sure the chamber is clean before switching. The question is whether that option is important enough to you that you want to rule out th e.38 Spl only revolvers. While its more powerful, there are downsides to that even in a defensive use. I don't know your home situation, your strengths, etc.,

For a beginner I agree that while the adjustable sights can be a little easier to see, a fixed site can be fine, and has the advantage of being fixed. I see nothing wrong with having both SA and DA expecially if you plan on doing bullseye shooting. You're shooting single action now so this may let you build on what you know. I agree that DA is what you want to practice most on, unless you decide to pursue bullseye. But you can use bullseye targets and distances as way to challenge yourself. As far as practicing good trigger, holding sight picture, follow through and building strength, I'm not convinced a .22 k-frame is needed. You can dry fire the revolver to you're heart's content and everything is the same as live fire except for the bang and the recoil. I use dummy rounds even in my centerfire firearms as I feel it may provide a little more protection, adds weight, and also allows practicing loading and unloading.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

Wow! Very appreciative of all the recommendations and reasoning. A whole lot to digest and consider. It does appear the majority are recommending the SW 686. Not sure of the stainless though, how is it in the sunlight? Maybe the blued 586. Looking forward to next range trip and renting a few models that have been recommended. In the meantime, here is another question. DA/SA or DA only? Which would be best to start with? The wrangler I have in 22 is SA only. Fun plinker, so glad I saw Hickok 45's video/demonstration on cylinder gap blast avoidance. " Thank You" to all. Joe

1. Sunlight will not matter as it's in a holster. I shoot outdoors all the time and it has lines on top that break up the sun and it's matte finish on top. I posted mine in sunlight so you can see what I mean.

2. Blued is going to be more maintenance with rust and protecting the finish, but some prefer the look which is fine.

3. Having owned DA only/SA only and the 686 which can do both I would recommend one that can do both or DA only for home defense. Even with the 686 I practice 90% DA because in a real home defense situation you aren't going to want to or have time to cock the hammer. When I scared off the potential home invader, had I cocked it then I would have had the headache of safely de-cocking it on a loaded chamber as you can't open the cylinder in that state.

If you like 22 the 43c is a J Frame in 22 with 8 shots. Almost no recoil and unbelievably light.

 

[Darryl Z]

Add me to the 4" K or L frame fixed site club. Virtually indestructible, simple to use, plenty of ammo to choose from for practice or carry. You can still find police trade-ins reasonably priced. Becoming proficient in shooting D/A will improve your accuracy. Good luck and have fun

 

[oldman10mm]

To OP, what is your timeframe in wanting to acquire one ?

 

[Mark IV]

Another vote for an older Model 10 ( or 64), with 4" barrel. They're classics, pretty economical, not much more to tote versus a snubbie, but vastly more shootable, for both the range,and self defense. It checks all the boxes, with no downside.

 

[Malkovich]

A Model 10, one of the most popular revolvers of the 20th century. A .38 special. An excellent, dependable, revolver with a fine reputation. You should be able to find one used for under $500.

2 of my oldies but goodies
10-8 K frame Square Butt 4” Heavy Barrel
model 60 stainless 38 Snubbie

 

[robertrwalsh]

Pretty much any K-frame or L-frame 3" or 4" revolver in .38 spec or .357 mag would do the job very nicely. 6" would be acceptable.

 

[Matt_X]

Just don't go tooo old. The high trigger spur of the Victory and post-War M&P impedes a good double action sight picture even though I like these guns and long action.

The reason I think the K-frame like a 10 is better than a J-frame or a Charter Arms is the double action trigger is smooth and the force to pull it is relatively steady through the second half of the squeeze. The J-frames are more bit more difficult and the Charter stacks all the way until the release - at least mine does. No reason to make learning a smooth steady trigger pull and follow through more difficult.

In addition, a K-frame with 4" will make better use of the cartridge in a home defense situation than short barrels most common on the J-frames. Also get a holster. Not only for any class you might attend, but also in case you have to answer the door or similar and it might be police or your family - gun in hand could be bad. There's an older Massad Ayoob video on youtube where he goes over this situation.

Fun plinker, so glad I saw Hickok 45's video/demonstration on cylinder gap blast avoidance. "

A reasonabley good starting revolver video can be found at Lucky Gunner Lounge.
You would not go wrong to watch youtube information from "Paul Harrell" on negligent discharges , and from "Gun Blue" multipart series on shooting double action revolver - starting with part 2. In addition to getting some dummy cartridges, practice in a safe location. Did I mention safe location? Pick a location with a substantial backstop (eg brick wall) and where you will never bring live ammo. It is good to be redundent with safety when dry firing - after all it is still pulling the trigger.

 

[minconrevo]

Depends quite a bit on the physical abilities and the goals of those being taught. For general learning to be a really good double action revolver shooter, I'd suggest a S&W Mod 18 and a S&W Mod 15/67/66. 4" only please. If trying to do with one only, get one of the centerfires mentioned. Lots of good used ones out there. The centerfires can be "shot" with snap caps until the cows come home. The Mod 18 is really good to learn basics, with live shot action, noise and effect.

The 4" J frame kit guns work with smaller hands, however the trigger action is stiffer than a tuned K frame. For them, grips that resemble the factory J frame banana style seem best.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

The consensus seems to be a K or L Frame in 38/357. Cannot say I disagree with that, considering OP primarily is concerned with home defense.

That narrows things down considerably.

Models: 10, 14, 19, 27, 28, 581/586, 66, 681/686 would all do fine.

If he prefers blued that would narrow it even further: 10, 19, 27, 28, 581/586

 

[SFury79]

In my opinion, a J frame is not a beginner’s gun. They can be tough to master requiring a lot of practice and ammo cost.

I have to wholeheartedly agree with this advice. I would advise the OP to stay away from J-frames for now. They are considerably worse to shoot than a 4" K frame. I know, I own both revolver types. I would not hesitate to let someone shoot the 10-5 I own to begin with. It's a great beginner gun.

I'm in the crowd of going with a used Model 10 or 15 to begin with. Decent used ones can be obtained fairly easy and are softer shooting. Far easier to shoot than 357s at any rate.

If new, then either a 3" to 6" 686+ or GP100. You don't need to shoot 357s to begin with, and the weight of those guns mitigates a lot of the felt recoil. Barrel length should reflect desire to carry or use at the range or for hunting. Longer guns are easier to be accurate with over shorter ones in general but are not so great to conceal carry.

Stay away from anything in the 44 or larger caliber. 44 magnum is where most people hit a wall recoil wise.

The one exception to that 44 rule being 45 colt. Factory loads are actually very mild. However, they are more expensive than 38 special rounds that can more easily be purchased.

 

[BabaBlueJay]

All this talk about the Model 10 makes me want one if only because it is the 1911 of revolvers. Two World Wars!

 

[Malkovich]

Unfortunately revolvers are significantly more expensive then plastic autos. $500 is sort of a bottom price for a good condition used gun. I'd say a model 10 would be OK but a 19 or 686 with

It’s good to see the enthusiasm for revolvers. I’m wondering what this pair would fetch.

 

[Malkovich]

All this talk about the Model 10 makes me want one if only because it is the 1911 of revolvers. Two World Wars!

They’re like real watches, made by skilled smiths and mechanical in some interesting way.

 

[jammer216]

I'd try to find a used one if possible they are out there if you look and the older ones tend to be better (though each gun is unique).

You should be able to find one used for under $500.

With a little looking, there are some good deals to be found on re-imported or trade in law enforcement model 64's.

Thought about used, but hesitant since I am not confident in the knowledge needed for a thorough inspection. I have viewed some videos and articles, but...
Thanks @SWOH for the link...

To OP, what is your timeframe in wanting to acquire one ?

No time frame, researching and testing until I find whats best for me.

Thanks Guys for information overload... "Wow" still reading and processing all of your responses... Joe