Advice on a 586 or 686

[tramblygoat]

Looking to increase the size of the Wesson family and I want to buy either a 586 or 686 ( as always, I love polished steel as much as I like a deep blue).

I'm thinking about getting a 4'' barrel one. I already have a 629 in 6'' and a 27 in 6" as well as a 617 in 5'' ( yes it was a custom mod). So I'm thinking try a 4'' barrel version this time.

I live in Europe so we are not 'enlightened' and are not allowed to carry - just the bad guys and the terrorists get to carry but you guys no what I mean. So the 4'' is just to have another twist on the S&W adventure.

Anything apart from the usual stuff to watch out for? I won't of course be buying anything from after the mid-80s. I already know how to fully strip down my revolvers so I have passed the initiation stage.

Regards and enjoy your Sunday folks.

 

[snubbiefan]

Well...I've never met a 686 that I didn't like, but it seems the most favored one in the family could be the dash 4 in 4-inch. The dash 4 was the last year for forged parts and it's also drilled-n-tapped for a scope. I'd also mention the issue with the "M" comes up with the no-dashes. If you do come across a ND that is not "M" stamped in the frame window, you will be faced with a decision to send it home for a free upgrade and it's a long way home from France. The 586's seem to be less available. Happy hunting!

 

[Old cop]

While I prefer the looks of the 586 the 686 is more user friendly for a range and or hunting gun. Stainless resists rust, is much easier to maintain over time and quicker to clean after the range.

 

[robert1804]

The beautiful blue on those older 586's looks even better in real life than it does in pictures. A 686 that has not been polished would be a nice find. Get one or both. If you want one to shoot a lot, consider a new 686. Lock, mim parts and all, these are seriously underrated guns. Forged parts for the older guns will become scarce in the near future, and usually require professional fitting. MIM parts will be readily available and will often be drop-in replaceable.

 

[tramblygoat]

Well...I've never met a 686 that I didn't like, but it seems the most favored one in the family could be the dash 4 in 4-inch. The dash 4 was the last year for forged parts and it's also drilled-n-tapped for a scope. I'd also mention the issue with the "M" comes up with the no-dashes. If you do come across a ND that is not "M" stamped in the frame window, you will be faced with a decision to send it home for a free upgrade and it's a long way home from France. The 586's seem to be less available. Happy hunting!

What was the issue with the 'M' ? - pardon my ignorance but I missed that. Sounds like a James Bond problem....

 

[Sully8548]

There were some reported problems with the cylinder binding when using certain kinds of .357 ammo, I believe with soft primers. The "M" stamp would indicate it was sent back and modified to correct this issue. Not really a problem unless it's your duty gun or EDC. See details here: Firearm Recalls and Safety Warnings- FirearmsID.com.

I have a 586 no dash no "M" and have shot 100's of .357 rounds through it without a hiccup. By the way the 586 and 686 are both great guns. I'd recommend getting one of each but that's just my opinion.

 

[regalsc]

I have a 686 no dash no M stamp. The M stamp means it was sent back for a factory recall to install a new firing pin bushing to prevent the primers from 357's from flowing back or rising which could cause the cylinder not to turn. Mine shoots 357's fine so I see no need to send it back. It also leaves it original.

 

[tramblygoat]

I have a 686 no dash no M stamp. The M stamp means it was sent back for a factory recall to install a new firing pin bushing to prevent the primers from 357's from flowing back or rising which could cause the cylinder not to turn. Mine shoots 357's fine so I see no need to send it back. It also leaves it original.

Thanks for that. Last time I had primer issues was with a Glock 17 I had. The Glock is gone and a Sig Xfive is on back-order to replace that.

 

[Pizza Bob]

The "M" issue was not just with the no dash guns, but also with the -1's. 581/681 and 586/686. Concur with choosing the -4 as the best of the best.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[0311INF]

I recently picked up a 586-1 (M) in 6" in awesome shape. Hard to believe it's 30 years old. It's got the best trigger I've ever felt on a revolver and I plan to pass it down to one of my sons. They can wrestle over who gets it!

 

[SS57]

Tough choice sir. I couldn't decide either on which 4 inch to get so I got one of each. A 586-3 and a 686-4. I would hate to be forced to choose between the two.

 

[Lt JL]

the early 586 models were about the last of the old-style deep blue S&W guns. I'll take a 586/581 over their stainless counterparts any day.

 

[grcoffman104]

Replaced many a bushing on L frames in the 80's
Smith sent instructions a M stamp and bushings to police armorers they were happy to let us replace them (cheeper) as my frail memory goes whole thing came up when most agency's switched to using full power 357 to qual troops over 38s. Seems some guns got quiet hot and a few bushings over expanded and locked onto the fireing pin. None of ours ever did.

 

[dmar]

the early 586 models were about the last of the old-style deep blue S&W guns. I'll take a 586/581 over their stainless counterparts any day.

I have to agree, the 586s are just beautiful guns. The last of the 'real' Smiths... I really like the 686s, as well. But if I had to choose one, it is a no-brainer; 586.

Here's my 6" barrel 586 with combat stocks. Awesome gun.

 

[rwsmith]

The risks of buying a gun from 30 years ago.....

Unless it was damaged or abused, there are no risks from buying a 30 year old X86. I'll take a 686. Magnum loads make a lead, tarry mess and Stainless handles thorough cleaning better.

 

[da gimp]

guys has anyone ever tested to see which frame was stronger, more durable., both on round counts & strength with warm hand loads , (not the max loads some favor).. the blued versus stainless on J, K, L, & N frames?

the reason I ask is that I've seen a lot of posts here dealing with frame cracking & damage on a certain stainless J frame, and on some aluminum framed pistols ( S&W and Colt alike there).... but cannot remember anyone saying they had seen they had similar number of damaged blued guns of the comparable model...but have never heard anyone refer to any tests done to figure which was best...

Right now I'm leaning to picking up a good used 4" 586 with exc timing , blue wear would be un-important as I intend to having it parkerized.....I just prefer it over stainless.. as I've gotten to wondering on the strength issue. Is the 686 just as strong as the 586 ?Is it really is just a preference to the less care needed for stainless and for some like me, a preference for a parkerized, blued or satin nickel (like the old Colt Combat Commander)

 

[bigwheelzip]

My 4 inch 686-6 Plus is very user friendly for range work. It is my go-to for introducing new shooters to the sport. Everyone shoots it well. Whichever one you choose, it's very versatile.

 

[jack the toad]

I like them both but if had to choose and all things being equal, the 4" 586 would be my choice. Dunno about France but seems to be lots more 686's here for sale than 586's.

 

[bananaman]

I like the looks of my 4", 586 no dash better than my 686-3. (6") Not much difference to me in how they shoot. Bob

 

[BAM-BAM]

I've got...... well my wife would say "too many!!" LOL......

the L frame 686/586 combines the best of the K-frame 66/19 and the N-frame 26/28........and represent maybe IMHO the best .357 every made.....

so put me down as a maybe......