New Member 13-1

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I am a new member I want to provide info on a hand gun I purchased a few years ago. It is a model 13-1 ser. No. D931545 .357 Magnum. I have fired a few rounds through it both .38 special as well as .357. It does have a 4" barrel and it fires very well. I have cleaned both the hammer and trigger and it removed the hardening marks. Any information on this would be appreciated. This is a M&P model from what I understand.
Casey
 

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Welcome Casey. I wonder what method you chose to "clean" your hammer and trigger?
If you want to have case hardening again you can replace them with new from several sources. Nice looking 13 otherwise.
 
I am not the smartest guy in the world, but if I had to make a guess.......
hammer & trigger were replaced at 1 time. That person may have attempted to duplicate the look, but it did not hold up due to improper process.
I bought a 13-2 in Sept. Was not looking for 1, but it called out to me. It sure shoots quite well. I am curious if my theory makes any sense to others. Enjoy your 13! Bob
 

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13's are nice guns. The"clean" hammer and trigger not so much. We're all happy to see you didn't clean the bluing. LOL. The revolver is a "K" frame, square butt model probably made in the early 70's. It is a direct descendant of the ubiquitous model 10. The pinned barrel and countersunk cylinder charging holes are desirable characteristics for many collectors. The gun came with magna service stocks. The targets were probably added later. Welcome to the forum. You'll learn a lot here.
 
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Several members have asked what I cleaned them with. Well, in another forum on older .32-20's I had a gun that was previously blued and they also blued both trigger and hammer. In that forum I was told I could remove same by using Naval Jelly Which is what I did. I then looked at my Model 13-1 and saw the hardening marks and thought they might look nicer if I did the same. Apparently the consensus here is not so good. Does Naval Jelly eat into the metal?? Perhaps someone here as more info on that. Thanks for the replies. Lots of good info here.
 
Naval Jelly is a powerful acid. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid
The color case hardening is used as a finish. Much of a gun's collector value (and collectors are what drive today's market) is in the original unmolested finish. Collectors prefer a gun with honest wear from years of use (with care) to a "looks new" refinish. So unless a gun is pretty much a rust bucket, it's better to wipe with oil & leave as is.
 
Several members have asked what I cleaned them with. Well, in another forum on older .32-20's I had a gun that was previously blued and they also blued both trigger and hammer. In that forum I was told I could remove same by using Naval Jelly Which is what I did. I then looked at my Model 13-1 and saw the hardening marks and thought they might look nicer if I did the same. Apparently the consensus here is not so good. Does Naval Jelly eat into the metal?? Perhaps someone here as more info on that. Thanks for the replies. Lots of good info here.

Welcome to the forum, and thanks for sharing the pictures of your new Smith. And yes, most people that appreciate the old Smiths also appreciate the period correct finishes.

The case hardening is one of the more desirable features of the classic Smiths. Removing, or re-doing original finishes does diminish the guns value. But hey, your gun, your choice. If you like it that way, enjoy it.
 
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