Smith and Wesson model 19-3 snub nose

Hoppe's can cause the nickel to peel. It was developed to clean the bullet plating out of the bore of a gun. If it can get to the copper under the nickel it eats the copper away and the nickel peels off. I've used Ballistol for years and really like it.

The Hoppe's thing is a myth. The old timers around this forum frequently make reference to Roy Jinks (S&W Historian), who stated via the SWCA (S&W Collector Association) that S&W never used the nickel plating process of putting a copper substrate under the nickel.

Hoppes will not melt your gun. It even says right on their site that it is safe on nickel.

Now, would I let my nickel gun soak in Hoppes for a week? NO! but I wouldn't do that to ANY gun of ANY finish.

No one seems to know if Colt ever used this method. For all I know, that's where this myth originated. Personally I think it is all a bunch of BS.
 
What's something I can use that will really make the nickel shine again?
 
Welcome to the FORUM! another polish that was not mentioned, is SIMICHROME. I have never used it on a nickel gun, as I have never owned 1. Works great on stainless. Regardless of what you use take it slow & easy. Bob
 
polish

I use Simichrome and Renaissance polishing wax on my Nickel Smith. Works GREAT !
 

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Welcome to the FORUM! another polish that was not mentioned, is SIMICHROME. I have never used it on a nickel gun, as I have never owned 1. Works great on stainless. Regardless of what you use take it slow & easy. Bob

thank you for the tip! im gonnna take all of these into consideration, be my first time shooting a snubby gonna take it to the range next week any tips on how they handle?
 
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Ah yes, great choice my friend. You can’t go wrong with a Model 19. May not be-all and end-all but you cannot go wrong with it for sure. Started with one, then spread to a collection that spans to about 6 Model 19’s. I really appreciated the mechanics, frame size, rich history and its success in law enforcement.

What I have chosen to carry is the 2 ½ inch Model 66-1 or basically the Model 19 in a stainless steel version. It is the exact gun, just in stainless steel finish. I am sure there are people out there that carry a nickel/blued model 19 and know how to take care of them. Awesome but I personally feel more confident knowing I can holster the model 66 without getting holster wear. I can sweat on it without worrying about rust. Bang it up a bit and cleaning it with any type of gun solvents/degreasers without being concerned about the stainless steel finish.

What lead me to this decision was the fact that yes, some stronger solvents/degreasers can remove the blued/nickel finishes off these classic model 19’s. So for sure do your research on the cleaning solutions you plan to use. I am not a gun cleaning expert by any means but I personally use basic mineral oil and clp breakfree for cleaning my blued/nickel plated model 19’s. For long term storage I give them a healthy coat of renaissance wax. I have heard of other stronger solutions beginning to eat away at the copper that holds the nickel in place on these guns. Especially if there is a scratch or ding that has begun to show the inner copper layer so be very careful my friend. On Flitz, go to the website because I just looked and it says to Note: “Not for: Electroplated finishes.”

Welcome to the forums and I hope you find your new model 19 to be a great piece and hope you enjoy learning more about it as your quest goes along.
 
Ah yes, great choice my friend. You can’t go wrong with a Model 19. May not be-all and end-all but you cannot go wrong with it for sure. Started with one, then spread to a collection that spans to about 6 Model 19’s. I really appreciated the mechanics, frame size, rich history and its success in law enforcement.

What I have chosen to carry is the 2 ½ inch Model 66-1 or basically the Model 19 in a stainless steel version. It is the exact gun, just in stainless steel finish. I am sure there are people out there that carry a nickel/blued model 19 and know how to take care of them. Awesome but I personally feel more confident knowing I can holster the model 66 without getting holster wear. I can sweat on it without worrying about rust. Bang it up a bit and cleaning it with any type of gun solvents/degreasers without being concerned about the stainless steel finish.

What lead me to this decision was the fact that yes, some stronger solvents/degreasers can remove the blued/nickel finishes off these classic model 19’s. So for sure do your research on the cleaning solutions you plan to use. I am not a gun cleaning expert by any means but I personally use basic mineral oil and clp breakfree for cleaning my blued/nickel plated model 19’s. For long term storage I give them a healthy coat of renaissance wax. I have heard of other stronger solutions beginning to eat away at the copper that holds the nickel in place on these guns. Especially if there is a scratch or ding that has begun to show the inner copper layer so be very careful my friend. On Flitz, go to the website because I just looked and it says to Note: “Not for: Electroplated finishes.”

Welcome to the forums and I hope you find your new model 19 to be a great piece and hope you enjoy learning more about it as your quest goes along.

thank you for your info and thank you for welcoming me to the board. i haven't got a chance to shoot it yet i'm going to next week, but how is the handling on the snub noses and what is the preferred amo you put through yours?
 
For target practice, basic mix of .38 special 158gr Federal lead round nose and full metal jacket. I keep the brass because I may start hand loading soon.

For self-defense ammo I go with the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel Ammunition .38 Special +P 135 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point’s. I reviewed many ballistics videos and charts and liked the Short Barrel gold dot’s ammo the best for my needs. The ammo is engineered for snubby’s or short barreled revolvers.

The snubby handling for me, with mid-size hands is great. K-Frame really does the trick and the short barrel is still heavy enough to withstand the 357 magnum blast and .38 special rounds for sure. I’ve had lots of practice so I can confidently shoot 3 – 5 inch groups from 5, 10 and 15 yards with those loads.

Again there are going to be many different variables and this is based on my experience. Take your time and remember to practice for sure. The best gun/ammo is the one you can shoot the best, remember that :)
 
I talked the guy out of this chamois lined Lawrence when I picked mine up.....i love it....
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thank you for your info and thank you for welcoming me to the board. i haven't got a chance to shoot it yet i'm going to next week, but how is the handling on the snub noses and what is the preferred amo you put through yours?

Oh and here is a pic of my Model 66-1 I was talking about. Black hogue grips and k-frame night sights.

 
^^^ thank you all for your helpful advice im gonna take all of them to mind and will post how i'm taking to the gun shortly. And Mr. cisco thank you for all your info your model 66-1 is a great looking piece. i love the sights i would love to get sights like those for mine any tips on how i can do that?
 
^^^ thank you all for your helpful advice im gonna take all of them to mind and will post how i'm taking to the gun shortly. And Mr. cisco thank you for all your info your model 66-1 is a great looking piece. i love the sights i would love to get sights like those for mine any tips on how i can do that?

Your very welcome sir. The night sights are:

Meprolight Smith & Wesson Tru-Dot Night Sights K/L/N Frame Revolvers, with Red Insert Front/Adjustable Rear
Model# ML22770

Price for the night sights can range but I got a good deal on them on eBay. I had my local Gunsmith perform the install, I am sure your local gunsmith can take care of this job with no issues as well. I felt more comfortable having a true professional install them instead of me. Didn’t want sights falling off after a while due to my wrong use of the correct glue for the front ramp sight etc… :p
 
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