Sad day for an old gun.

[Highridinyota]

So here's the run down on the tragic events leading up to my posting here . Apparently a squib round has done the Ole gal in and blowed out the side of the barrel on my revolver . I'm looking to pick the brains of the experts hoping they can lead me in the right direction as to whether the old gal can be fixed or should I just put if in the top drawer as a lesson learned . I've no idea on the age or details of this firearm. Any advice or info is greatly appreciated

Here's the details

*hand eject
*38 smith and wesson special ctg
* number on butt and under side of barrel. S 90433
* barrel length 5 inch .
* fixed sights

 

[opaul]

I didn't realize a squib would do that to a barrel. looks like a mid barrel explosion to me

 

[Highridinyota]

Squib never made it out the barrel . Rounds stacked up and this was the result

 

[murphydog]

You have (had ) a .38 Military & Police revolver, I think from the late 1946 time frame (S 904335 is the full SN). The good news is the cylinder and frame were likely not damaged with the barrel blow-out, and another barrel can be installed. Finding one with the same tapered contour and the hole for the barrel pin would be best, and any doubts about the integrity of the rest of the gun should prompt a professional check.

 

[Highridinyota]

Are parts readily available for these model years. Something I should take up with smith directly or are there aftermarket manufacturers

 

[Old Arkansawyer]

Have a good gunsmith make a snub for you.

 

[jmace57]

You should be able to find one. I even have one I could give you - it looks OK on the outside, but doesn't have a pretty bore (some old rust, but still decent rifling). To be honest, I don't remember if it's a 4", 5" or 6" barrel. It's for a pre-War M&P, but should fit without issue if you are interested.

 

[apollo99]

Too bad, I have a '47 6" similar to yours, it is a sweet shooter. You have two pretty good options put forth, new barrel, or snubby the old barrel. I might be inclined to just snubby the old one if it can be configured properly.

 

[murphydog]

You could have a gunsmith cut the barrel back, but you would lose the forward locking point for the ejector rod since the rupture is in back of it. Any 4, 5 or 6" will retain the same rod but a factory 2" would require a shorter one.

 

[mikepriwer]

Should be easy enough to find an early post-WW2 barrel, or even a WW2 or pre-WW2
barrel. They are all the same. Make sure you get a .38 Special barrel.

Can you open the cylinder, or has the barrel been bent down slightly, and is jammed on the extractor rod. If you can open the cylinder, then get the old barrel removed, and a
replacement fitted. If its jammed, then the extractor lug needs to be sawed off,
which is no big deal.

Mike Priwer

 

[teletech]

Looks like a new barrel and you are back in business.
Just figure out what length you would like and go shopping.
Oh, there's a little more to it than that... do have a smith collector or experienced gunsmith inspect the top strap and front of the receiver for bending or cracks just in case.
As to finding a replacement barrel, not too hard: Epay, Gunbroken, etc. as well as perhaps a local gun show. 4" and 6" seem a lot more common than 5" or 3" but give it some time and you will find one. Expect to pay from $25-$125 depending on condition and your patience. Then you just need a smith to change it out.

 

[Hondo44]

I would definitely keep the gun and make a repair.

The M&P barrels are probably the most numerous to be found. But you'll want a post war barrel to match your straight extractor rod. A pre war barrel will be notched as shown for the "barrel" style extractor knob like this:

Although if you can also get a barrel style rod, they're more comfortable to extract cases with.


Did you notice the O stamp following the barrel serial #?

"It is the mark of the repair department. The Service Department at Smith & Wesson was for a period of time referred to as Outside Repair Department to separate it from the repairs that were being done in house. On new revolvers that did not pass inspection and had not been sold, these revolvers are recycled. It was important that they get returned to the right location as they get mixed in the process. That is why you find them with different markings. I hope that this helps, Roy"

In previous comments, Roy has stated that when an order came in for one gun with a special option like different barrel length, lanyard swivel on the butt, etc., if that configuration was not in inventory, the factory would not build a gun just for that order. They would always modify a gun in inventory by sending it to the Service (or Outside Repair) Dept because it was faster and easier, than disrupting the regular assembly procedure.

 

[lebomm]

Welcome to the Forum ! Lots of good info above. Since the originality of this fine piece is now gone, it makes sense (to us shooters) to keep it in shooting condition by replacing the barrel. There are several options as to length, as any M&P barrel will work, and anything 3"or over will fix it
with no other parts required. Please do let us know how this works out.

Larry

 

[Highridinyota]

You should be able to find one. I even have one I could give you - it looks OK on the outside, but doesn't have a pretty bore (some old rust, but still decent rifling). To be honest, I don't remember if it's a 4", 5" or 6" barrel. It's for a pre-War M&P, but should fit without issue if you are interested.

I'd be happy to have it . Put a price on it . I'm not much worried about appearance as I am about functionality

 

[Highridinyota]

Should be easy enough to find an early post-WW2 barrel, or even a WW2 or pre-WW2
barrel. They are all the same. Make sure you get a .38 Special barrel.

Can you open the cylinder, or has the barrel been bent down slightly, and is jammed on the extractor rod. If you can open the cylinder, then get the old barrel removed, and a
replacement fitted. If its jammed, then the extractor lug needs to be sawed off,
which is no big deal.

Mike Priwer

Barrel seems to be the only damage

 

[Highridinyota]

Looks like a new barrel and you are back in business.
Just figure out what length you would like and go shopping.
Oh, there's a little more to it than that... do have a smith collector or experienced gunsmith inspect the top strap and front of the receiver for bending or cracks just in case.
As to finding a replacement barrel, not too hard: Epay, Gunbroken, etc. as well as perhaps a local gun show. 4" and 6" seem a lot more common than 5" or 3" but give it some time and you will find one. Expect to pay from $25-$125 depending on condition and your patience. Then you just need a smith to change it out.

Thanks for the info

 

[snubbyfan]

Have a good gunsmith make a snub for you.

I was thinkin' that. Get it cut down and make it a snubby.

 

[Highridinyota]

I would definitely keep the gun and make a repair.

The M&P barrels are probably the most numerous to be found. But you'll want a post war barrel to match your straight extractor rod. A pre war barrel will be notched as shown for the "barrel" style extractor knob like this:

Although if you can also get a barrel style rod, they're more comfortable to extract cases with.





Did you notice the O stamp following the barrel serial #?

"It is the mark of the repair department. The Service Department at Smith & Wesson was for a period of time referred to as Outside Repair Department to separate it from the repairs that were being done in house. On new revolvers that did not pass inspection and had not been sold, these revolvers are recycled. It was important that they get returned to the right location as they get mixed in the process. That is why you find them with different markings. I hope that this helps, Roy"

In previous comments, Roy has stated that when an order came in for one gun with a special option like different barrel length, lanyard swivel on the butt, etc., if that configuration was not in inventory, the factory would not build a gun just for that order. They would always modify a gun in inventory by sending it to the Service (or Outside Repair) Dept because it was faster and easier, than disrupting the regular assembly procedure.

Thanks for that interesting bit of info

 

[jmace57]

I'd be happy to have it . Put a price on it . I'm not much worried about appearance as I am about functionality

OK - how about....free. Look for a PM.

 

[JP@AK]

You have (had ) a .38 Military & Police revolver, I think from the late 1946 time frame (S 904335 is the full SN).

Most likely May, 1947, based on nearby serial numbers. But, of course, these are always educated guesses, since guns did not go out the door in serial order.