$130 dollars and one and a half hours later....

Smokin' Iron

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Yep! I installed an Apex forward set trigger kit in my M&P 9C today to give it a trigger pull like it should of had when it left the factory. No more gritty eight pound trigger with a boatload of over-travel. A quick trip to the backyard range yielded groups almost half the size I was normally getting.

The sad part is, now my M&P has the same nice trigger that my Canik TP9SF has which cost over $100 dollars less, not counting the Apex kit. The reset still isn't as nice but I am not spending one more dollar on this pistol for an Apex Ram kit. I have felt Glock triggers that were not much better either.
 
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Probably between 4 and 5 pounds. It is a big difference from the original trigger.
 
What fun would it be if they came all nice from the factory?

That's what I keep telling myself...as I'm clicking the Submit button on another Apex order! [emoji6]

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Probably not, but I like them better with the apex parts.


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I agree the Apex parts are better. I thought my M&P trigger would smooth out with use, but it didn't.
 
I think my 9mm Shield has one of the better out of the box triggers that I've had in striker fired weapons. It has a comfortable weight and positive reset. I just don't see the need for a change. I still like the trigger on my 1911's best, but I've shot them for 40+ years so that's to be expected!


Alan
 
I have a 9FS and, like a lot of folks, don't like the trigger. My main dislike is where it breaks. It feels like my trigger finger is in the palm of my hand before it breaks. Does the forward set Apex kit change where the break occurs, or does it only improve the break quality?
 
I have a 9FS and, like a lot of folks, don't like the trigger. My main dislike is where it breaks. It feels like my trigger finger is in the palm of my hand before it breaks. Does the forward set Apex kit change where the break occurs, or does it only improve the break quality?

all of the above.

If you get the set forward KIT, it will move it forward a few (2 or 3) mms.
It smooths everything out.

I dont really care what people say, and I am not a master shooter, but the stock triggers are complete junk.

Everyone that I let finger my M&Ps, that have never used one with an Apex....goes "WOW!"

;)
 
TruckinThumper - How difficult was the job. I have watched the videos and it seems simple, but I know that apex wouldn't post a video with tough roll pins etc. It only makes sense for the job to go smoothly. Did you have to modify the frame at all ? I have heard that in some instances you need to remove some material from the frame. What tools did you use. What skill level do you believe is required to do the job ? Thanks for your insights.
 
TruckinThumper - How difficult was the job. I have watched the videos and it seems simple, but I know that apex wouldn't post a video with tough roll pins etc. It only makes sense for the job to go smoothly. Did you have to modify the frame at all ? I have heard that in some instances you need to remove some material from the frame. What tools did you use. What skill level do you believe is required to do the job ? Thanks for your insights.
The job is not too bad. Get descent punches, take your time and watch some of the instructional videos on youtube step by step. I would not consider myself a master gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination and had no trouble.
 
There is no need to modify the frame whoever told you that has no clue what is he doing. The only thing that might need some adjustment is the trigger bar loop. The first time that you remove the pins can be a bit hard but nothing impossible if you have the right punches and a good armorer hammer.

The hardest part if there's one is removing the rear sight to install the striker block and spring but again not really info you have a good sight pusher. Some sights are harder than others, a sights pusher is recommended.

I have installed quite a number of apex kits on different M&P and would say it is not a super easy job but it is not super hard you need a bit of patience pay attention and watch the videos over and over again. First time is a bit scary.

Good luck.
 
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Thanks Shield9MM - I would be installing it on a Performance Center M&P Core Ported. Have you had any experience on these guns ?



pretty much the install is the same but a bit easier since the striker block is under the plastic cover instead of the rear sight you still need a 0.050 hex tool to remove the screw that holds the striker block plate. I installed the apex FSS flat faced trigger on mine nice 4lb trigger with a short travel and reset. Can't ask for a better trigger.


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That is the trigger I planned to use. I wanted to get some rounds downrange to see if I could adjust to the trigger, but there was just way to much take-up and the reset was to much. How would you compare the setup you have now to a 1911 ? Is the break crisper or is it still spongy ?
 
Never had or tried a 1911, I started with polymer guns, the trigger breaks nice and clean it is crisp with a great reset too. IMO it is well worth it.


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I recently installed the full Apex kit in my M&P PC ported 9L and PPQ Match and can say that they're both pretty close to a 1911 trigger. Only a 1911 will have a 1911 trigger though.:)

My most accurate pistol used to be a Rock Island 9mm 1911. Now it's a 3 way tie between it, PPQ and my M&P. Ringing steel is almost effortless with these pistols. :cool:

I have trigger kits on the way for my long slide Glock's to get the same trigger feel. Now I'm currently shopping for a double stack 9mm 1911 to rival the Apex equipped M&P and PPQ.:D
 
That is the trigger I planned to use. I wanted to get some rounds downrange to see if I could adjust to the trigger, but there was just way to much take-up and the reset was to much. How would you compare the setup you have now to a 1911 ? Is the break crisper or is it still spongy ?

As other have stated, the install is pretty simple.
There are 2 PITA parts.
1: ) Pressing the trigger pin to the trigger bar.
My FS went in pretty damned hard. The CORE install was a
snap.
2: ) On the CORE, the .50 hex head is stupid soft and well torqued. I had a few .50 wrenches and ended up using a leatherman square bit.

Take your time and go slow.

OH, as for the feel....it is NOT like a 1911, but it is pretty close for a striker fire. I would really say if it were not for the spongy-ish feedback of the striker, It would be sorta dead on to a 1911. Shooting wise....1000 times better than the stock P O S setup :D
 
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