Talk to me about Chronographs

[ron_c]

This is what I used until 10 years ago. It was a pain, for one person to set up. The first screen was placed 5 feet from the muzzle, the second screen was 10 feet from the first. If the velocity was thought to be, 1000 feet or less, then the second screen was placed 5 feet from the first.

The height of the bullets were recommended to be 6 inches above the screens. After a shot was fired, the switch was rotated for the first number by adding up the numbers the meter went to "Yes". Then repeat the process for the other 3 numbers. Then you looked at the chart, for that number (which most likely was time of flight across the screens), to the left was the velocity in feet per second.

It was very slow and a pain to use, but it worked and cost something like $110, as I recall, in the late 70's or early 80's.

 

[Nemo288]

Wow, that's some primitive kit.
Early transistor logic likely.
Before the flat panel plasma, cold florescent, liquid crystal, and LED displays there were no good solid state numeric outputs.
I have a Korean War frequency counter (that goes with a military shortwave radio) that uses nixie tubes for the numbers.
That unit weighs 50 pounds and comes in a bigger box with spares etc.
The whole thing is large enough to use as a coffee table.
I have a later freq counter that has solid state innards but also uses nixie tubes for the readout.
Nixie tubes use a neon type readout where the "filaments" are shaped like numbers and there are 10 of them in each envelope.
Kinda neat to watch them operate but they take around 100 volts and some associated high voltage electronics to work.

 

[ron_c]

Wow, that's some primitive kit.
Early transistor logic likely.

Along with the instructions, it even came with a schematic of the unit.

 

[LAA]

So, my son brings over his new camera equipped drone yesterday. The winds are around 30 mph with strong gusts. The quad just maintains it's GPS position without his hands on the controls. Even though it's being bumped a bit from side to side, the electronic gyro gimbal is keeping the camera image perfectly still. Quite impressive!

If they can cram all of that in a small package, then I feel they can do the same, with a Pro Chrono for less than a hundred bucks. I understand it doesn't take two readings, like a more expensive unit, but it appears that it's readings are quite comparable to the expensive units. One thing for sure, is that I use it in the desert, and it gives a what I'd consider to be a quite accurate reading, nearly every time.

 

[bwxmas]

And, you reckon that drone cost under a 100.00?

 

[AveragEd]

My plan is to wait for the LabRadar unit to go through a software update or two and the price to come down as it always does with new technology before buying one. I do think it is the answer to a lot of chronograph users' complaints.

But I see that they list its maximum reading as 3,900 feet per second - I have a .243 Ackley Improved with a heavy 27" barrel that spits 65-grain Bergers out at 3,939 fps. Granted, I only have that one rifle that is that fast but I wonder what the .220 Swift guys do.

Ed

 

[LAA]

And, you reckon that drone cost under a 100.00?

Nope. But the electronics are just a part. Just the fact that high tech computers are in small packages, and the pricing has dropped. This particular drone, with camera, battery, transmitter, etc. is around $900 with sale pricing. Never the less, the Pro Chrono does do a credible job, putting out numbers with real meaning. Much more than just a tool, for the casual reloader.

 

[ctangus]

For decades Oehler has been the gold standard that all others were measured by. New, it has a price that competes with the LabRadar but you might find a used one cheaper.

First and always: Chronograph = Oehler. Anything that can give ACCURATE velocity readings vs measured accuracy will give you numbers you can crunch. Actual velocity means nothing (until you get into energy), spread could mean everything. Finite velocity accuracy means everything, without it, why bother? I still use my Oehler Mod. 12 from 1980 @ $100.00. BUGHOLES are beautiful.

 

[ctangus]

This is what I used until 10 years ago. It was a pain, for one person to set up. The first screen was placed 5 feet from the muzzle, the second screen was 10 feet from the first. If the velocity was thought to be, 1000 feet or less, then the second screen was placed 5 feet from the first.

The height of the bullets were recommended to be 6 inches above the screens. After a shot was fired, the switch was rotated for the first number by adding up the numbers the meter went to "Yes". Then repeat the process for the other 3 numbers. Then you looked at the chart, for that number (which most likely was time of flight across the screens), to the left was the velocity in feet per second.

It was very slow and a pain to use, but it worked and cost something like $110, as I recall, in the late 70's or early 80's.

Looks just like my Oehler Mod. 12 (Bought new in 1980 @ $100.00). Slow to get the four numbers to go to the actual velocity chart was a "Blessing" when shooting rifles, allowing cooling time as required. I still use mine to this day. I never thought it was "slow" back then, and now it has to wait on me to catch up.

 

[Frank46]

I have an Ohler 35P with the proof channel and printer. Has 3 skyscreenes, three sheilds and comes with the chrono and printer all in one.They stopped making them for some years but now they are building them again. Don't turn your back on yours as some fool will sit in your stool and blast a round downrange. That has happened to me a couple times. After a little come to Jesus talk to the offender he usually doesn't try it again. Any shots through the screens is fired by me. I'll do a few strings for someone so that they can get some data. Don't know what they go for now as I bought mine about 20 years ago. Frank.

 

[Nemo288]

They are $595 for the whole kit:
Model 35 Proof Chronograph, Complete

And I will say that the actual velocity can mean quite a lot but would prefer not to get into an argument about it.
We can all massage our data as we see fit.

 

[fredj338]

Along with the instructions, it even came with a schematic of the unit.

My 1st chrono was sim, used foil screens & a conversion book. Yeah that got old fast. I love my oehler, always works, low light or bright sun, but you need shades in brite sun. I would buy a labradar if i want something "better", but i really want a pressure trace.

 

[Nemo288]

but i really want a pressure trace.

Yeah that would be my next one too if it ever occurs.
The main problem would be calibrating my thick custom Encore bull barrels.
I know it's possible and would be an interesting challenge.
PressureTrace II
BTW there are some cool tech articles there even if you don't get their gear:
RSI Technical Articles
I don't necessarily agree with everything they have to offer but it's all a good read.
For instance I think measuring case expansion is worth doing even if it doesn't tell you the exact pressure.
It's data. It's worth something even if only a little.

 

[iouri]

Resurrecting the old thread: so after shooting my 2nd chronograph instead of working on my technique I've decided to bite the bullet on labradar Hope as a bonus I can use it at my indoors range instead of driving 90 min to outdoors range.

 

[Nemo288]

My LabRadar works fine at the indoor range.
That's the primary reason I got it.
Everything from short barrelled revolvers to double rifles are easy to chrono.
The only thing it won't do is shot shells.
Those little lead balls don't reflect back enough energy to use.
Flat base bullets return more signal than boat tails.
Large calibers work out to longer range than smaller ones.
The display actually has a little indicator showing how much "confidence" or signal each shot produced.

One main trick I learned is to keep the LabRadar unit itself absolutely still during firing.
I put mine on a tripod and separate it from our shooting stands which are not exactly motionless.
My results got WAY more reliable and I am not dropping shot results any more.
The closer the muzzle is to the unit (and just slightly out in front), the more reliable things get as well.
You will have to play with the settings.
I find the 12" setting works best for me even if the barrel is closer than that.
Sensitivity should be set to 1.
I can't get it to work at all at "2".
That must be for 50 BMG or 20mm!

Let us know how this works out for you!

 

[iouri]

Thanks for sharing your experience, Nemo288 ! Mine supposed to be shipped next week, so hopefully by the next weekend I'll be able to try it out.