M&P 9 Manual

[cma6]

Manual also says this though:
"NOTE REGARDING SLIDE RELEASE OPERATION:
When the slide is held open on an empty magazine,
the slide release is very hard to depress.
This warns the shooter that the magazine is
empty.
To easily release the slide, either remove the
empty magazine or replace it with a loaded
magazine. Depressing the slide release will then
be much easier"?

An expert on this forum was kind enough to post the above quote from the manual. But I never found that very useful information in the manual included with my new M&P 9. So I was wondering if that quote came from an online manual?

 

[gonerydin]

M&P 9 Manual

It came from Kahr pistol operating instructions. Page 15. I googled it.

https://www.kahr.com/pdf/kahrmanual.pdf


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[cma6]

Manual

It came from Kahr pistol operating instructions. Page 15. I googled it.

https://www.kahr.com/pdf/kahrmanual.pdf

Thanks for the reference. So you knew that what applied to the Kahr also applied to the M&P 9?

 

[gonerydin]

It came from Kahr pistol operating instructions. Page 15. I googled it.



https://www.kahr.com/pdf/kahrmanual.pdf



Thanks for the reference. So you knew that what applied to the Kahr also applied to the M&P 9?

No. I just pasted your quote into Google and found it immediately.


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[Rastoff]

So you knew that what applied to the Kahr also applied to the M&P 9?

Even if the quote came from a different manufacturer, the action does apply to the M&P.

Press the slide lock, pull back on the slide, whatever. You won't damage the gun.

 

[JVSIII]

This quote would apply to almost every detachable magazine fed semi automatic handgun on the market for the most part. With an empty magazine in the gun, you are adding the pressure of the magazine spring to the slide release/stop/catch to the pressure of the slide pressing against it. Thus it would be more difficult to release the slide using the slide release/stop/catch. Why you would do this unless you are using the slide release/stop/catch to release the slide while performing dry fire practice. If this is an issue, buy a couple spare followers and cut or grind off the part that interfaces with the slide release/stop/catch, or use snap caps/dummy ammunition.

And plus one on the above, use it to release the slide or not. If it breaks, it won't, but if it does, replace it yourself or send it in and Smith will replace it for you. That's what back ups are for.

There was another thread about this not too long ago. All I could find in the M&P manual was an obscure mention of its use on a warning.

ETA: The "release/stop/catch" is to signify that different manufacturers all use these different terms. Some say that unless it's called a release you shouldn't use it as one. I would say that they pretty much all serve a dual function. The part the interfaces with the slide would be the catch or stop. The part on the outside of the gun that is usually textured to facilitate easier digital manipulation would be the release.



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[MichiganScott]

As Rastoff noted, S&W calls the product a slide lock. Press it if you want to release the slide, but be aware that the part was never designed to be used as a slide release like on a 1911.

Just how does a quote from a Kahr manual apply to a Smith?

 

[JVSIII]

Where did you see it called a slide lock? I searched the manual and found seven references to slide stop, but zero for slide lock.

I'd also like to know where everyone is finding out how and for what purpose it was designed. I've seen several people say that they called S&W and have gotten mixed answers.

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[gonerydin]

Where did you see it called a slide lock? I searched the manual and found seven references to slide stop, but zero for slide lock.

I'd also like to know where everyone is finding out how and for what purpose it was designed. I've seen several people say that they called S&W and have gotten mixed answers.

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This subject gets way more attention than it deserves IMHO. [emoji3]


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[JVSIII]

I agree, hence a post on an earlier thread that drifted in the same direction

"The chingadera that holds the slide to the rear when the clipazine is outta shells. Ya know the thingie you push down on to drop the top end after you put in a new clipazine in da grip."

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[cma6]

Rack & release the slide

This quote would apply to almost every detachable magazine fed semi automatic handgun on the market for the most part. With an empty magazine in the gun, you are adding the pressure of the magazine spring to the slide release/stop/catch to the pressure of the slide pressing against it. Thus it would be more difficult to release the slide using the slide release/stop/catch. Why you would do this unless you are using the slide release/stop/catch to release the slide while performing dry fire practice. If this is an issue, buy a couple spare followers and cut or grind off the part that interfaces with the slide release/stop/catch, or use snap caps/dummy ammunition.

First, thanks to the experts who have weighed in on this issue, although I am more confused than ever. Practicing with an empty mag, by trial and error, I have found 2 methods to rack the slide and then release it.
1) With empty mag in place, rack the slide; remove mag; release the slide; reinsert the empty mag.
2) Rack the slide; pull back on slide and at same time press slide release down to release the slide.
So which method is the standard method to use?

 

[JVSIII]

OK, sorry to drift your thread so far. I'll try to explain it a bit better.

To utilize the slide stop to release the slide.
1. A. Insert new magazine
B. Press down on the slide stop using your thumb.

I prefer to use my support hand thumb as it crosses more platforms, gives you more leverage, and for me, I'm less likely to prematurely drop the slide or miss the slide stop. You can also just use your strong hand thumb. If you are having a hard time with an empty magazine, you can use snap caps/dummy ammunition to simulate a loaded magazine. I would highly recommend buying some dummy ammunition as there are several uses for it.

If you prefer to slingshot the slide.
2. A. Insert new magazine
B. Pull the slide all the way to the rear and release.

Do not "help" the slide close, it's a bad habit, too slow and will cause malfunctions.
You will absolutely have to use dummy ammunition to accomplish this, otherwise you are not practicing properly.

You can get snap caps/dummy ammunition just about anywhere, I got my last bunch from amazon. I mentioned before you can buy a couple followers and modify them. While you can, I would recommend against doing that.

*On a side note, you should never use any live ammunition for any dry practice. I prefer to use a room for dry fire practice that I am reasonably sure never has any live ammunition in it. I check everything, then go into that room and check everything again. If you leave the area, follow the same procedures to start again.

If you need more clarification, feel free to ask.

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[Rastoff]

1) With empty mag in place, rack the slide; remove mag; release the slide; reinsert the empty mag.
2) Rack the slide; pull back on slide and at same time press slide release down to release the slide.
So which method is the standard method to use?

Both will work equally well.

But I have to ask, why use a mag at all?

 

[JVSIII]

Now I'm confused. Are you trying to practice emergency reloads?

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[cma6]

Slide release

Now I'm confused. Are you trying to practice emergency reloads?

I don't know what emergency reloads are. I was just trying to figure out how to rack the slide and then release it.

 

[cma6]

Mag in place

Both will work equally well.

But I have to ask, why use a mag at all?

So you are saying that the mag should not be inserted at all to rack and release the slide?

 

[cma6]

ammo

You can get snap caps/dummy ammunition just about anywhere, I got my last bunch from amazon. I mentioned before you can buy a couple followers and modify them. While you can, I would recommend against doing that.

*On a side note, you should never use any live ammunition for any dry practice. I prefer to use a room for dry fire practice that I am reasonably sure never has any live ammunition in it. I check everything, then go into that room and check everything again. If you leave the area, follow the same procedures to start again. If you need more clarification, feel free to ask.

JVS:

Thanks for the very valuable info. I will try this over the weekend. The only ammo I have is a box of 50 cartridges Aguila 9mm Luger full metal jacket. Starting in April, wife & I will be going out to the range to practice.
I could not find equivalent ammo (for home defense and range practice at Amazon. I would appreciate your (& other M&P 9 experts') recommendations for 3 types of ammo (and best online place to buy:
1) equivalent to the 9mm Luger ammo I already have ;
2) cheaper ammo for range practice;
3) dummy ammo for use in practicing loading (and firing??) in basement at home.
For 3) I found this at Amazon:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Deals-Parabellum-Cartridge-Ammunition/dp/B01EIRCNHS/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1489084124&sr=8-30&keywords=9mm+luger+cartridges[/ame]

Your concept on how one should use dummy ammo at home makes a lot of safety sense to me.
Now for the $64 question: when one is doubly sure that the chamber and/or mag is loaded with only dummy ammo,
can one pull the trigger in one's basement; and what happens when one does that?
Thanks,
CMA

 

[Ranger17]

my opinion only, but i rarely dry fire and if I do it is in a room with zero ammo available. I much prefer to get my practice in at the range with live rounds. Allows me better feedback for recoil, grip, form/stance, accuracy, reloading, and so on. Been shooting 4 years now and can probably count on one hand the times I've spent dry firing. I'll add that besides range time for practice this is also a hobby of mine and I just enjoy shooting.

As for range ammo (9mm), I've gone thru several thousand rounds of Blazer Brass, Remington UMC, and Herters; all 115gn fmj. All worked just fine in my compact and full size MP's. More recently been sticking with the Rem and Herters for use in my PC Shield. Whether i get it at one of the stores close to me or online i tend to buy thru Cabelas (can use coupons and points), Gander, and even Dicks at times. Normally I pay in the $10-11 range for 50 rounds, a few times a little more if i needed it, and sometimes with sales and even rebates it's been a lot less.

 

[cma6]

Ranger:
That sounds like excellent advice for a newbie: get started at the range.
I also appreciate the ammo recommendations.

 

[Ranger17]

Ranger:
That sounds like excellent advice for a newbie: get started at the range.
I also appreciate the ammo recommendations.

And if I may add, if you both are truly of newbie status with guns; take a class prior to hitting the range the first time or grab some instruction when you get there (from a range officer, perhaps friend or family member who is competent, trainer, etc).
It is easy to pick up bad habits; better to practice goods ones for both safety and gaining proper experience. As we all were newbies at some point; and I'd venture to say i'm not the only one who had a poor few habits to break/relearn.....