The finish I put on it in 1962 was lacquer with rubdowns between coats with pumice and linseed oil. Won't be doin' that but I've never use the tung oil. I will look into that. Thanks.
I'm making progress in the decision making. Decided to leave the drawer fronts and body as they are. Still deliberating what to do with the top.
Tung oil doesn't darken the wood as much as linseed oil does. I thin 100% tung oil 50/50 with mineral spirits, wipe on liberally, let stand ~20 minutes, wipe off wet areas, wait til one hour is up, then repeat as above. If you sand it to ~220-320 before oiling, you shouldn't have to rub it down until you start seeing a build up. Once there, I rub it just enough to haze the shine with 0000 steel or bronze wool, wipe it down with a clean paper towel or lint-free rag to de-dust it, then add another coat of oil.
At that point, it won't take very many more coats of oil to get a nice shine. For me, the work is in the initial sanding of the raw or pore filled wood. After that, the oiling process takes days, maybe weeks, but each coat is easy to do and takes only a few minutes out of an hour. I like it because while there is patience required to accumulate many coats, it is not back breaking labor.
Another finish I like is Waterlox semi gloss. It does need a rubbing between coats, but takes only maybe three coats with a 0000 rubdown between coats. It's a little more water resistant than only oil because it is a tung oil/varnish mix.
Be sure to open up and lay out flat to dry any rags or towels wet with any of these finishes. Never ball them up wet or you might have a spontaneous combustion fire later.
Linseed oil, tung oil or the Waterlox have a powerful smell; don't plan on using them in the house or you will sleep in the garage for a while. Actually, your wife will sleep in the garage and you'll sleep outside somewhere. Nice thing is when the smell is gone, you know the piece is dry and ready to use.