Why a Revolver?

Because for some reason I get bored with semi autos, among many of the other great reasons mentioned. :)
 
IMO some logic to the Original post

In the late 80s and early 90s I found myself transitioning from revolvers to autos...... 3rd gen Smiths, Beretta, and Sigs....... with the assault weapons ban of 1994..... I decided I needed a stash of 5 and 6 shot revolvers; as I believe that revolvers will be the toughest/last to face a ban, as they are an american tradition since 1840s. My stash included many Safariland speedloaders.



It got me back into revolver shooting.

I also got a stash of 7/8 round mags for my 3913s Sigs P series and a Beretta Type M single stack; as the 7/8 shot 1911 would, IMO, be the last auto to face being banned.
 
Revolvers?
More powerful cartridges.
Don't have to search for ejected brass
At least Smiths mostly have sweet SA triggers.

What would I carry? A semi-auto.
 
Since the 70's I've owned and carried .357 magnum revolvers. Two words, Autos Jam.
I carry a 640 Pro Series with 3 speedloaders in my back pocket. 20 rounds total so I'm not outgunned ammo wise.

I've fired many thousands of rounds through a combo of an S&W 5904 (an excellent handgun), Sig P229, and H&K USP .45 ACP. I've never, ever experienced any sort of malfunction. However, I have experienced catastrophic malfunctions with revolvers.

The MOST reliable handgun I own is Sig P229, and I'm including S&W & Ruger revolvers.

A semi is simplistic in operation with fewer moving parts than a complex double action revolver with more moving parts.

A revolver as more reliable than a semi is a HUGE fallacy.

When one of your beloved revolvers freezes, trigger won't move, cylinder won't turn, and cylinder won't open, you'll wish you were holding a Sig P series handgun.
 
Any gun stops functioning if you have a squib, a piece breaks or falls off, only semi automatics require the ammunition they fire to be within certain parameters to function.

At least in this way revolvers are more reliable.
 
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BTW oldies, I'm probably going back to my 30+ year-old Model 60. sentimentality rarely makes sense ;-)

BTW, one of my catastrophic revolver failures was with a Model 60. While the problem was diagnosed as bullet jump preventing the gun's cylinder from turning, it took an eternity for our armorer to very carefully re-seat the bullet thus allowing the cylinder to open. Regardless of cause, it was a catastrophic failure, which means I'd of been out of a fight were a bad guy putting rounds on me.
 
Any gun stops functioning if you have a squib, a piece breaks ot falls off, only semi automatics require the ammunition they fire to be within certain parameters to function.

At least in this way revolvers are more reliable.

Go with the rule, not the rare exception.
 
I have both semi autos and revolvers and I shoot and carry my revolvers 90% of the time. I reload for everything I own and I like the infinite ways of loading revolver cartridges from mild to magnum, auto reloading you can but not as easily done.I also like swinging open the cylinder and retrieving empty brass without having to pick them off the ground.

I like blued steel and wood, no plastic for me. The semi autos I own are for the most part are 1911's with one Sig P239 in the center fire mix. My rimfire collection is also 90% revolver . I'm the same way with my long guns - shotguns all wood and blued steel.
 
BTW, one of my catastrophic revolver failures was with a Model 60. While the problem was diagnosed as bullet jump preventing the gun's cylinder from turning, it took an eternity for our armorer to very carefully re-seat the bullet thus allowing the cylinder to open. Regardless of cause, it was a catastrophic failure, which means I'd of been out of a fight were a bad guy putting rounds on me.

That happened to me once. Problem with S&W's is that the "jumped bullet" is almost always on the right side of the frame...meaning you can't even open the cylinder. I did a field repair on mine...took an appropriately sized wood stick, put it on the nose of the offending bullet and banged on the end of the stick until the bullet sunk far enough into the case to free up the cylinder. It worked quite well.
 

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