#100 of reclaimed lead

[Forrest r]

I had a little time today so I did up a batch of reclaimed lead. I try to do 100# batches. It makes casting several different bullets easier when you use a alloy you have a lot of. Did the typical pure plumbers lead/range scrap/mystery lead combo. I melt everything in a old propane tank that is cut in 1/2 that sits on a propane base for a turkey fryer/smoker..

Between the tight fitting lid of the converted propane tank and the high btu output of the propane base, it doesn't take long to melt & flux the 100# batch of alloy.

The alloy gets pored into ingot molds. The air cooled ingots tested out at 11bhn/12bhn. And the water dropped ingots tested out at 17bhn/18bhn. Which puts the 100#'s of alloy right at range scrap or ww's.

The bucket weighs 2# and the bucket filled with ingots weighed 101.4#

100# of alloy sounds like a lot but it will be burned up casting 3,500 bullets for the 357. Been testing loads for the 357 using 1 of my favorite bullets, the mihec 359640. What doesn't get used up in the 357's will spill over into the 38spl's.

The rest of the alloy (20#) will go for casting bullets for the 308w.

 

[Eddietruett]

Might be a stupid question, but how do you check the hardness?

 

[Nevada Ed]

11-12 hardness................... Sweet.

Those two 158's and the 170gr bullets look fantastic.

Have fun.

 

[Forrest r]

Might be a stupid question, but how do you check the hardness?

I use nothing more than the simple pencil test.

Keep in mind that the #'s will go up +/- 3 points as the alloy age hardens. This is a pretty hard alloy due to the 40#+ of the "mystery" metal that went into it that tested out in the +/- 18bhn range.

Been testing hot 357 loads looking for a thumper for a short bbl'd 586 l-comp. But I've also been testing with 4"/6"/8"/10" bbl's also.

 

[fredj338]

My least fav part of bullet casting is melting scrap into ingots. Necessary evil for me.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

I have gone through a ton (literally) of lead over the past 45 years, but I don't think I have ever done 100# at one time. Very nice set up you have for the job!

I always used my Coleman camp stove (propane) and a Salvation Army store cast iron pot, which I think handles about 25# at a time. I use aluminum muffin pans for casting ingots. Check the hardness and mark the ingots so I can blend them together for casting bullets suitable for specific uses (everything from handgun target loads to high-power rifle), and I keep some new linotype metal on hand to mix in for the most strenuous tasks.

Still have about 200# of old 1980's wheel weights, which are great for many uses. Hard to find anymore, so if/when I run out I'll probably be shopping commercial sources.

Years ago (early 1970's) I volunteered to work our police department range, digging up the traps, sifting through hardware cloth screens, and hauling filthy spent bullets home to melt, flux, flux some more, flux another time or two, until it was as clean as I could make it. Ten pounds of salvage would shed 2# or more of dross during the cleaning. I don't think I have the energy anymore, so thankfully I can now actually afford to spend a little money to get what I need without all the labor.

Casting bullets, and studying the metallurgy involved to get best results, has always been the most fascinating part of the shooting sports for me.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Might be a stupid question, but how do you check the hardness?

There are several methods. Probably the most accurate is by using a hardness testing tool, which requires an investment of cash from the budget.

I've always used the comparative testing method. I take an ingot of my new metal, place it into a bench vise with a sample of known composition and hardness, place a steel ball bearing in between, then press the ingots together over the steel ball bearing. The impressions left can be measured with a micrometer and a little "interpolation" will provide a fairly accurate estimation of hardness. The samples I use are new foundry linotype metal (BHN 22-24) and pure lead (BHN about 6), and the testing impression measurements can be used to identify hardness of the new ingot within that range. Not scientific laboratory accuracy, but more than sufficient for my purposes.

 

[Skyhunter]

Pencil Test for Lead Hardness?

Ok - my ignorance is showing.
What is the "pencil test" for lead hardness and how do you do it?
Thanks,
Skyhunter

 

[BAM-BAM]

As a kid I remember Dad melting and casting bullets in the summer months ..... mostly .38s for the Departments Pistol team........ he had a Star progressive loader and did his reloading in the winter.....

 

[reddog81]

Nice setup. I need to get one of those propane base setups if I ever get a large stash of WW's or random lead to be smelted again. Lately I've been lucky and been able to buy ingots small enough to drop into a 20 lbs pot.

How do you transfer from the propane tank to the ingot mold? I've had really good luck using a $1 small pot with handle from a thrift store. The first time I tried to lift and pour a cast iron dish with 40 lbs of molten lead I knew there had to be a better way to go about it.

It's amazing how quickly you can go through 100 lbs. The first time I bought any I just did #50 thinking that would last a while. Now I won't even waste my time on anything under #100.

 

[Forrest r]

Ok - my ignorance is showing.
What is the "pencil test" for lead hardness and how do you do it?
Thanks,
Skyhunter

Artists have pencil sets to draw with. They have different numbers and letters. They tell the artist how hard the pencil lead is, soft ='s dark vs hard ='s light lines.

For testing lead ingots take a pencil and draw a line on the ingot, trying to scrape the lead at the same time. If the pencil gouges the lead ingot, the pencil is harder then the lead. If the pencil only draws/leaves a line on the lead ingot. The ingot is harder than the pencil and you should re-test using the next hardest pencil.

Simple but it's surprisingly accurate.

I use a long handled ladle to scoop the lead out of the pot and pour it into ingot molds.

I've slowed down with my shooting, the last couple years I've only burned 200# +/- of lead per year. A lot of it has to do with shooting more high-powers and either rimfire or 35cal pistols/revolvers.

 

[fredj338]

Nice setup. I need to get one of those propane base setups if I ever get a large stash of WW's or random lead to be smelted again. Lately I've been lucky and been able to buy ingots small enough to drop into a 20 lbs pot.

How do you transfer from the propane tank to the ingot mold? I've had really good luck using a $1 small pot with handle from a thrift store. The first time I tried to lift and pour a cast iron dish with 40 lbs of molten lead I knew there had to be a better way to go about it.

It's amazing how quickly you can go through 100 lbs. The first time I bought any I just did #50 thinking that would last a while. Now I won't even waste my time on anything under #100.

I use a ss soup ladle, scoops about 3# of alloy at a time. I have maybe 500# of tange svrap & ww to melt. I just hate doing it. For me its a winter job, bullet casting is mostly too.