Sometimes it is easier taking a look at other threads on transitional 1917's. This thread has excellent pictures that indicate the OP's gun is such a gun including large ejector rod knob, trademark on the side plate, set up for magna grips, similar serial numbers without the S prefix. All that needs to be resolved is if it has military stampings and a hammer block safety, IMO. If it is a transitional, they have it priced well below market value unless there is something wrong we have not seen.
It should be a post war transitional gun. Some had the S prefix marked and some didn't. There weren't many made.
Ed
and some strange marking that I could not discern.
Beautiful! Great catch and great price.
Clearly has the 1930 rd top frame reportedly assembled in the serial range S209792-S210782, many of which shipped in the 1946-48 period.
Should have the smaller U notch rear sight blade.
And well within the Transitional serial # range!
It wouldn't come from S&W with an empty lanyard swivel hole, they plugged the hole. So the swivel was probably removed as soon as received by the owner. Is the retaining pin still in the grip frame under the grip?
The strange stamp by the assembly # in the yoke looks like Px, but really just a poorly stamped inspector's mark which should be there.
If I did anything to it besides install a lanyard swivel, I'd swap barrels with the Model 22 to get the shorter barrel and with the extractor rod shroud like the 1917 should have had from the get go.
You scored big time!
Beautiful 1911A1 as well, more correctly a Model of 1926 since it's a civilian model.
From the serial number, it is one of about 1000 "postwar Transitional" 1917s made just after WW II, so it is indeed a commercial gun. Photos would help for an opinion about originality of finish.
Very nice 1917. I like it a lot. Also digging your Commercial Colt's 1911A1.A little update for those that were interested in my commercial 1917. After opening it up and cleaning out the excessive oil, I began noticing some issues with it. I noticed immediately how "smooth" the action was. It was so smooth, then when dry firing (with snap caps), the cylinder would some times advance past lockup. The hand is and was fine. I replaced one spring at a time, until I ended up replacing them all. It now is flawless, and has a normal, and very tight feel to it, and no more cylinder lockup issue (or lack thereof). For about $20 dollars worth of springs, it seems virtually new. I also found some vintage grips that match extremely well, and should be pretty close to correct for the time, I think, or close enough for me. Tomorrow, I take it to the range.
Thanks for the update.
Springs, much like people, will often lose their...temper.