Anyone own a JEEP Wrangler???
- Thread starter JSR III
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10mmauto
Member
I’ve had around 14 jeeps or so...oldest was a 46. Youngest was an 06. The 07 v6 it different than the current v6. The jk’s Are comfortable but I just can’t see spending that amount of money on a fiat/Chrysler product. It’s the electrical systems company wide. I am curious to see how the jl’s are. Since we have been discussing all wrangler years and not relegating the discussion to the 07...my opinion
Pre-91 yjs’s - carter carbs are the devil the 2.5 tbi are better than the carter but the ax-5 trans makes it a solid meh at this stage In It’s life. Just watch for frame rot
91-95- 4.0 Efi with an ax-15 is one of the best if not best jeep combo ever. Simple. Reliable , easy to work on , and parts are cheap. Still leaf springs so drives like a dump truck
The 2.5 ax-5 combo is great for everything except highway driving and is better with a 4.0 tb installed. Helps a lot.
97-2002. More comfortable than the yj’s , air bags , and still reliable, cheap. Just watch for frame rot
2003 and later Daimler cost cutting hit some parts. Bushings in control arms don’t seem to last as long. The 42rle trans is terrible. Better off with the earlier 3 speed. The seats are a little lower. Some minor stuff. Go manual to avoid the **** auto
Jk’s- electrical. Some 07 had paint issues. I’m biased against current quality control compared to the 4.0 era.
Current yj that I finished in June
Put a cj front clip on it
Pre-91 yjs’s - carter carbs are the devil the 2.5 tbi are better than the carter but the ax-5 trans makes it a solid meh at this stage In It’s life. Just watch for frame rot
91-95- 4.0 Efi with an ax-15 is one of the best if not best jeep combo ever. Simple. Reliable , easy to work on , and parts are cheap. Still leaf springs so drives like a dump truck
The 2.5 ax-5 combo is great for everything except highway driving and is better with a 4.0 tb installed. Helps a lot.
97-2002. More comfortable than the yj’s , air bags , and still reliable, cheap. Just watch for frame rot
2003 and later Daimler cost cutting hit some parts. Bushings in control arms don’t seem to last as long. The 42rle trans is terrible. Better off with the earlier 3 speed. The seats are a little lower. Some minor stuff. Go manual to avoid the **** auto
Jk’s- electrical. Some 07 had paint issues. I’m biased against current quality control compared to the 4.0 era.
Current yj that I finished in June
Put a cj front clip on it
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OP
Thanks folks for all of the tips. As some additional info from me, the one I am looking at (which could be gone tomorrow) is a 2 door Sahara, V6 with a 6 speed manual transmission.
I have a 10 cylinder 2003 Excursion that is my casual driver and boat hauler (no commuting) and a 2016 Ford High Cube Van (14' box truck) that I do my daily construction business out of. Also have a 2003 HD 883 Sportster in Gun Metal Blue when the spirit moves me.
This is really a second mid life or at 68 maybe a 2/3's life crisis purchase. Heck, I paid close to $10,000 for a 2007 Polaris 500 EFI ATV with a plow so the 2007 JEEP is just an ATV that I can drive on the road.
I have a cabin in Maine and we built one at my gun club 3 years ago that sits on 80 acres with some neat logging roads.
So this will really just be a toy and I really do love manual transmissions. As long as you aren't stuck in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, shifting gears can be fun.
The JEEP is at a dealership 82 miles away so not sure how that will work. Have to drive down to see it first, apply for a loan and then I guess if approved, go back at some point get a ride with a friend to pick it up.
I have a 10 cylinder 2003 Excursion that is my casual driver and boat hauler (no commuting) and a 2016 Ford High Cube Van (14' box truck) that I do my daily construction business out of. Also have a 2003 HD 883 Sportster in Gun Metal Blue when the spirit moves me.
This is really a second mid life or at 68 maybe a 2/3's life crisis purchase. Heck, I paid close to $10,000 for a 2007 Polaris 500 EFI ATV with a plow so the 2007 JEEP is just an ATV that I can drive on the road.
I have a cabin in Maine and we built one at my gun club 3 years ago that sits on 80 acres with some neat logging roads.
So this will really just be a toy and I really do love manual transmissions. As long as you aren't stuck in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, shifting gears can be fun.
The JEEP is at a dealership 82 miles away so not sure how that will work. Have to drive down to see it first, apply for a loan and then I guess if approved, go back at some point get a ride with a friend to pick it up.
I have a 2000 TJ I bought for my ex around 2005. It has the 4.0 straight 6, but an auto trans, no factory ac...and it's YELLOW!
I've drove it many times from Palm Coast to Cincinnati.
Keep thinking about selling it to get a 4x4 truck, but it's been really dependable, and I hate payments.
I've drove it many times from Palm Coast to Cincinnati.
Keep thinking about selling it to get a 4x4 truck, but it's been really dependable, and I hate payments.
Jeep Wrangler
When it comes to JK's, the 2012 and newer models have the better engine in them; the 3.6 Liter PentaStar V-6. It produces a lot more horsepower than the 3.7 Liter Mini-van engine that was used in the 2007-2011 JK's.
My current Wrangler is a 2017 Model Rubicon Recon Special Edition. I've owned 25 Jeeps, 24 of them have been Wranglers.
My 2017 Wrangler Rubicon Recon:
For some reason I have recently been bitten by the JEEP Wrangler bug. My first wife owned one when we were engaged but it got sold to raise funds for our first house down payment. (So did my Z 28 Camaro)
So anyway, got the urge to add a JEEP Wrangler to the herd. Looking at a used 2007 with around 80,000 miles that I believe is the JK model. Wondering what tips or suggestions the group has from those that already own one. I know enough to check the frame for rust and rot as JEEP's, especially those in NE (salt) and those that have been off roaded are prone to have.
Any other suggestions????
When it comes to JK's, the 2012 and newer models have the better engine in them; the 3.6 Liter PentaStar V-6. It produces a lot more horsepower than the 3.7 Liter Mini-van engine that was used in the 2007-2011 JK's.
My current Wrangler is a 2017 Model Rubicon Recon Special Edition. I've owned 25 Jeeps, 24 of them have been Wranglers.
My 2017 Wrangler Rubicon Recon:
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Let’s say I’ve had a few Wranglers, over the years.
Currently I have 2, my “toy” is a 2004 Rubicon that is just a blast to drive, the 4.0, was IMHO, the best engine you could get in a Wrangler, over the last almost 30 years.
My other, my everyday “driver”, is a 2013 Unlimited (4 door), that I have about 120,000 miles on now.
I had a 2007 Unlimited (4 door) that I bought when they first came out, as my everyday driver, and I have to warn you that the engine in the 2007 (until the next generation, I believe 2012) had problems (losing engine oil, among other), so I would recommend against a 2007.
I will follow that up by saying that in my 38 years of having a drivers license, and driving about 30,000 miles a year, I’ve only ever had ONE engine with “catastrophic engine failure”, I’ll let you guess which one it was (the 2007).
Currently I have 2, my “toy” is a 2004 Rubicon that is just a blast to drive, the 4.0, was IMHO, the best engine you could get in a Wrangler, over the last almost 30 years.
My other, my everyday “driver”, is a 2013 Unlimited (4 door), that I have about 120,000 miles on now.
I had a 2007 Unlimited (4 door) that I bought when they first came out, as my everyday driver, and I have to warn you that the engine in the 2007 (until the next generation, I believe 2012) had problems (losing engine oil, among other), so I would recommend against a 2007.
I will follow that up by saying that in my 38 years of having a drivers license, and driving about 30,000 miles a year, I’ve only ever had ONE engine with “catastrophic engine failure”, I’ll let you guess which one it was (the 2007).
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Jack Flash
Member
LVSteve
Member
Color me intrigued. What was the limit that you found so annoying.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I been a jeep mechanic in my early 20’s. Owned many jeeps. Bought a new loaded 99 to wranger sport. The frame just rusted out. I should of under coated it. Today they have the stuff to prevent rust inside the frame too. I got my 99 Wrangler with the hd auto tranny, Dana 44 rear with posi and 373 grears. Hd suspension, gas shocks, 30” tires, mags, 21 gallon gas tank two tops. 4/0 six. I love jeeps.
Jack Flash
Member
That's interesting. Mine is a 2000 and it has a 19 gallon gas tank. It would be nice to have the extra capacity since its mileage isn't anything to brag about (maybe 20 mpg if lucky).
I have heard a lot of talk about how you "are always working on a Jeep" but that hasn't been my experience. Outside of routine maintenance, the only thing it has needed in the ten years of my ownership were:
1. New radiator (the old one leaked for about 8 years then began to gush).
2. Rear brake cylinder blew out so I had the rear brakes redone. Mechanic said front brakes still fine.
Of course, it has led a pretty mild life. Only very gentle off-roading. More freeway driving than I would like, since an hour in a Jeep is a LONG time. Very glad to have the straight six. That's what I grew up with and to my thinking still the best all around engine for daily driving. Not to mention much easier to work on than a V-anything.
hostler
Member
The very first Ebay purchase I ever made was our 99 Wrangler. I lived in MD and bought it from a kid down in Atlanta in 2000. We still have it and drive it almost every day, we've put 146000 miles on it. The only things (besides maintenance and wear items) I've had to do to it is a new radiator and replace a rusted brake line and stuck brake cylinder. I would say it's been a very good vehicle up to this point, but it's going to start to be problems. Rust is taking the body over, it just failed inspection because the body mounts are rusted away. The frame is rusting and starting to get holes and I can tell it's going to be time to replace the rest of the brake lines soon.
Unfortunately it's coming to decision time, put money and time into it or dump it. I haven't decided yet.
Unfortunately it's coming to decision time, put money and time into it or dump it. I haven't decided yet.
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Last few jeeps I’ve owned and several others I make a waxoyl copy. Super cheap and the frame won’t rot from the inside out. Take an old pot, a 1/2 gallon or so of used motor oil from your last oil change, and several wax toilet rings. Heat oil on side burner of grill, add wax rings. Mix. Duct tape over lower frame holes. Fill frame. Remove tape. Will take a few days to harden to molasses consistency. Frame is set. I also remove every body mount bolt and crossmember bolt and coat with antiseize This way if I ever remove them they come out easy before rust sets in. Also pull your carpets and you will seee the bead rolled depressions are the lowest points in the floor not the drain plugs. Take a small drill bit and add some more. Especially where the rollbar mounts on cj/yj/tj ‘s are. On tj’s enlarge the frame drain holes near inner most control arm mounts too....
And HEMI, if you like the 2.5 please do the tb swap. You’ll thank me
And HEMI, if you like the 2.5 please do the tb swap. You’ll thank me
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Big Cholla
Member
Computer Control
In the '08 Rubicon the engineers put a limiter in that prevented driving in low range at a maximum of a very low mph. In my patrolling I had several places where it alternated from a required low crawl speed while climbing or descending with a short stent of 'balls to the wall' speed if possible before reaching the next very low range slow speed requirement. The control movements required to get out of low range and back into low range were too time consuming for those short distances. That feature was very aggravating when I was in pursuit of some off-road driver.
In the '08 Rubicon the engineers put a limiter in that prevented driving in low range at a maximum of a very low mph. In my patrolling I had several places where it alternated from a required low crawl speed while climbing or descending with a short stent of 'balls to the wall' speed if possible before reaching the next very low range slow speed requirement. The control movements required to get out of low range and back into low range were too time consuming for those short distances. That feature was very aggravating when I was in pursuit of some off-road driver.
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1morethan8
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
I bought a 2006 Rubicon when the 2007 came out... I bought the '06 because it had the 4.0 inline 6, which was the last year.
I wanted a Rubicon because it has Dana 44 axles front and rear.. I can "lock" either the rear or both axles and they have 4:10 gears, Bilstein gas shocks and disc brakes front and rear. The transfer case is 4:1 and not 2:1 as a standard Wrangler. Tilt wheel. cruise control and A/C helps on trips. I run it with the hard top, which lowers road noise, I've never used the soft top which also came with it.
In 12 years, I've only replaced the O2 censor. I keep the maintenance up on the Jeep, which is very important! I run full synthetics without a problem.
I wanted a Rubicon because it has Dana 44 axles front and rear.. I can "lock" either the rear or both axles and they have 4:10 gears, Bilstein gas shocks and disc brakes front and rear. The transfer case is 4:1 and not 2:1 as a standard Wrangler. Tilt wheel. cruise control and A/C helps on trips. I run it with the hard top, which lowers road noise, I've never used the soft top which also came with it.
In 12 years, I've only replaced the O2 censor. I keep the maintenance up on the Jeep, which is very important! I run full synthetics without a problem.
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OP
OK, well to add more to the discussion I have found another JEEP. This one is a 2010 with only 39,000+ miles. It is still about an hour away so the looking and purchasing process has some added wrinkles. I hope to go look at it tomorrow (if it didn't get sold yesterday) and if it's in decent condition, I will probably take a run at it. It's blue which is my favorite color with a black interior. It also comes equipped with a rack system that looks like it protects the hard top so I could haul my canoe or kayaks without having to add any other rack. My only concern is whether the rack needs to be removed if one decides to remove the hard top and put on a soft one.
I chatted with my x wife yesterday and asked her if she remembered her CJ5. She thought that it was probably a 1970 or 71 but also remembered that it leaked when it rained.
So anyone with a 2010, any tips??? This one has a 3.8 L V6.
I chatted with my x wife yesterday and asked her if she remembered her CJ5. She thought that it was probably a 1970 or 71 but also remembered that it leaked when it rained.
So anyone with a 2010, any tips??? This one has a 3.8 L V6.
white cloud
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I own a 2014 Wrangler which is my primary driver and has been amazingly reliable. I get about 22 - 24 MPG on the road. It is the two door Sport version with the manual transmission. I got the limited slip differential also. I find that I can do a lot of the routine maintenance myself.
We have some timber property here in rural S.C. and are trying to purchase more. Looking at prospective tracts or getting around there to do work requires something with 4WD and a lot of maneuverability. Deer hunting is a passion of mine. I have a hard time visualizing a better vehicle to do these activities with.
I am 65 and have owned a lot of vehicles. I can't think of one that I became this attached to. I don't think that I will ever sell my Wrangler. I will just rebuild what wears out.
We have some timber property here in rural S.C. and are trying to purchase more. Looking at prospective tracts or getting around there to do work requires something with 4WD and a lot of maneuverability. Deer hunting is a passion of mine. I have a hard time visualizing a better vehicle to do these activities with.
I am 65 and have owned a lot of vehicles. I can't think of one that I became this attached to. I don't think that I will ever sell my Wrangler. I will just rebuild what wears out.
OP
Well the deed is done. I bought the 2010 with 39,400 miles. Took it for a drive and boy do I need to practice my shifting. Will take a while to get it smooth again but it sure was fun.
The rack system is neat and does fold back if you want to change out the hard top for a soft or vice versa. The only issue is that I noticed some rot near the bottom of the tubing. They added weep holes but they are 6 inches from the base so water can accumulate inside and rot the tubes from the inside out. I have a friend that is a master welder so I can probably get him to do some repair work. Tried calling the company to see if they would sell just the 4 lower sections but they won't. The whole system sells for around $800 so I guess repair work is the option.
I should be picking it up this week as soon as all of the insurance paperwork and registration is done. Pictures will follow.
The rack system is neat and does fold back if you want to change out the hard top for a soft or vice versa. The only issue is that I noticed some rot near the bottom of the tubing. They added weep holes but they are 6 inches from the base so water can accumulate inside and rot the tubes from the inside out. I have a friend that is a master welder so I can probably get him to do some repair work. Tried calling the company to see if they would sell just the 4 lower sections but they won't. The whole system sells for around $800 so I guess repair work is the option.
I should be picking it up this week as soon as all of the insurance paperwork and registration is done. Pictures will follow.
When you get use to the standard you will ask, “why have I ever driven an automatic!?” I have vehicles that are both—ironically both my Jeeps are automatics—and I much prefer the standard other than in stop and go town driving in heavy traffic.
hostler
Member
Good for you James.Well the deed is done. I bought the 2010 with 39,400 miles. Took it for a drive and boy do I need to practice my shifting. Will take a while to get it smooth again but it sure was fun.
The rack system is neat and does fold back if you want to change out the hard top for a soft or vice versa. The only issue is that I noticed some rot near the bottom of the tubing. They added weep holes but they are 6 inches from the base so water can accumulate inside and rot the tubes from the inside out. I have a friend that is a master welder so I can probably get him to do some repair work. Tried calling the company to see if they would sell just the 4 lower sections but they won't. The whole system sells for around $800 so I guess repair work is the option.
I should be picking it up this week as soon as all of the insurance paperwork and registration is done. Pictures will follow.
Now you start setting money aside for lift, tires, lockers, bumpers, winch and skid plates.
When you're done with that (as if), you set money aside for repairs when you break things on the rocks.
Ahh, those were the days....
