19-3 Unserviceable - Now What?

Clarke Hammer

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My 19-3 snub that dates to 1977 developed a hard bind on double-action trigger pulls. The trigger would lock up about 7-10 times out of a box of 50 cartridges. I sent it to S&W early in October with a detailed note explaining the issue. The gun was returned back to me today with note indicating that it is an obsolete model and the factory no longer has parts available. That's a major bummer! I wish they would have at least diagnosed the problem and indicated for me what it needs, so I'd have a starting point. Private revolver smiths are scarce in California (any recommendations are welcome). I'd hate to think I'm left with a very pretty paperweight.
 
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Well, how 'bout we start with a copy of the detailed note explaining the issue. Then let's see if we can learn about the last time the gun came completely apart (all except barrel and action studs) for a bath. Then there's the strain screw you can confirm is stock length and tight-----and that the several springs are stock.

In the meantime, count your blessings. Locking up 7-10 times out of 50 isn't so bad compared to locked up completely after I installed a Miculek spring kit (without bothering with the instructions).

Ralph Tremaine
 
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S&W did the same thing to my gunsmith. He acquired an old 2", yes, two inch, Model 19 and it was impossibly broken so he sent it to them only to have it returned with a similar answer. He is a dedicated old boy, however, so he is fixing it himself as a pet project - and then it's mine! But it is taking him a very long time so I'd hate to have you send it to him and then wait for it.........and wait for it.............etc.

You might discover that TheShootist1894, a Forum member and great gunsmith, can fit it into his schedule. He has made/customized several great guns for some of us here.
 
My 19-3 snub that dates to 1977 developed a hard bind on double-action trigger pulls. The trigger would lock up about 7-10 times out of a box of 50 cartridges. I sent it to S&W early in October with a detailed note explaining the issue. The gun was returned back to me today with note indicating that it is an obsolete model and the factory no longer has parts available. That's a major bummer! I wish they would have at least diagnosed the problem and indicated for me what it needs, so I'd have a starting point. Private revolver smiths are scarce in California (any recommendations are welcome). I'd hate to think I'm left with a very pretty paperweight.

Contact Nelson Ford or Frank Glenn in Phoenix and see if they can do something for it.

The Gunsmith, Inc.

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

Two of the best. Well worth the drive for that classic ;)
 
Thanks for the responses! I have owned this gun for about 7 years. I acquired it with original box, tools, docs, and numbers matching magnas. It looked nearly brand new with almost no turn line nor flame cutting on topstrap -- all appearances are that this gun has been shot very little and well taken care of over the years. I have not removed the side plate. All the side plate screws look pristine and sharp, leading me to believe Bubba hasn't been inside. Shining a light down the cocked hammer, this thing appears spotless inside (I know that doesn't indicate what's going on behind the side plate). The action cycles very smoothly. The strain screw is completely tight, but I cannot verify whether it is the original. Here is what was in the note I sent in with the gun:

"There is an occasional hard bind when pulling the trigger in double action. The trigger is binding/locking-up during double action firing, stopping the hammer from traveling rearward. This malfunction occurs approximately 15% of the time (7-9 times out of a box of 50 cartridges). I only use standard factory ammunition; the malfunction occurs when using ammo from a variety of manufacturers. The malfunction doesn’t occur consistently—the revolver might successfully fire 24 cartridges in a row with zero malfunctions, and then have several malfunctions in two cylinders back-to-back. The trigger binding only seems to occur while firing live ammo; the problem never occurs for me while using snap caps or dry firing."

It is interesting to note that the binding never occurs with snap caps--only with live ammo. I should also mention that although I've owned this gun for 7 years, I've only put 350 rounds through it. This one doesn't make it out of the safe often.
 
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"There is an occasional hard bind when pulling the trigger in double action. The trigger is binding/locking-up during double action firing, stopping the hammer from traveling rearward.


The malfunction doesn’t occur consistently—the revolver might successfully fire 24 cartridges in a row with zero malfunctions, and then have several malfunctions in two cylinders back-to-back. The trigger binding only seems to occur while firing live ammo;

It is interesting to note that the binding never occurs with snap caps--only with live ammo.

Live ammo only is odd.

When it binds, can you thumb the hammer and pull the hammer back. Has the cylinder advanced.

Or do you have to let go of the trigger and will it reset without issue.
 
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Live ammo only is odd.

When it binds, can you thumb the hammer and pull the hammer back. Has the cylinder advanced.

Or do you have to let go of the trigger and will it reset without issue.

I had never thought to try to thumb the hammer back when it binds, but when I let the trigger reset and pull it again it will fire. When it binds up, the cylinder does not advance. It doesn't get far enough into the pull for the cylinder to rotate. Everything starts to move and bind occurs.
 
By any chance are you using American Eagle .38 ammo? I had some recently in which the case heads were really thick, much thicker than other factory ammo I normally shoot. They were so thick they have been causing issues for me in speedloaders and several revolvers with the same issue as you described.

I found that the lockup was occurring because the case head ws binding up on the inside of the recoil shield. On some of my Smith that area is detailed nicely, on others there is a little ridge that goes out to the end. That ridge is where the cases were hitting.

I could replicate the issue by firing empties. If I pointing the gun up, the case heads would slide down a bit and hit on that ridge. If I pointed it down, then it would work ok. If you see it binding, trying giving the cases you can reach on he left side a little push towards the front and see if that is the issue.
 
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Yes. As others have said, send it to a real gunsmith. S&W has no time for you, their technicians apparently aren’t real gunsmiths, and they don’t seem to have access to the technology and parts that the rest of the world has (internet).

You can buy every piece of a 19-3 on the internet, and look up videos showing you how to do every bit of work needed to fix one.
 
First off, make sure the ejector rod is tight which I assume you already did.
A m15 I have did almost the same jamming as your gun. To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be a wad of crud inside the cylinder that would somehow move around and jam the gun only during live fire. And only every so often with no set pattern to the jamming. Only a strip and cleaning of the cylinder fixed it. If your gun were mine I would fully detail strip it down to the barrel and frame including the cylinder and ejector, clean it and try it again.
 
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Thanks to everyone that has suggested the name of a gunsmith to contact.

By any chance are you using American Eagle .38 ammo?

No, American Eagle is one that I haven't shot in this gun. My main go-to's are Speer Lawman and Remington UMC. I didn't mention earlier that I've only fired .38 +p out of this revolver.

First off, make sure the ejector rod is tight which I assume you already did.
A m15 I have did almost the same jamming as your gun. To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be a wad of crud inside the cylinder that would somehow move around and jam the gun only during live fire. And only every so often with no set pattern to the jamming. Only a strip and cleaning of the cylinder fixed it. If your gun were mine I would fully detail strip it down to the barrel and frame including the cylinder and ejector, clean it and try it again.

Ejector rod is tight, but a complete tear down of cylinder and a thorough cleaning is not a bad idea.

Take a peak at your star ratchet and tip of your hand. Are they nice and clean or all chewed up?

Star ratchet and tip of hand look good. No visible wear and nothing looks amiss.
 
Take the side plate off and check the hammer and trigger studs that both rotate on. if either one is loose you have found your problem. Then check the trigger return housing stud. If the trigger return spring has one or more spring coils that is over the stud, instead all of all the coils inside the housing this can cause a similar problem that you have,
 
When it bound up was there no trigger movement at all, a tiny bit or more?

I always immediately back-off and let it reset as soon as it binds so as not to force it and cause more damage, so I can't say if the trigger would continue to move if I pulled harder.
 
Intermittent malfunctions are the hardest to diagnose. I have had my 586 do that, and I have never figured out why. It has not done it for a long time. Leaving that aside, there are a multitude of different things this might be and it would be best diagnosed with gun in hand, or maybe shooting it. Beyond a good cleaning, a good gunsmith is the next step.
 
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