19-3 Unserviceable - Now What?

FWIW the bolt can cause the same issue if it does not fully seat rearward when cylinder is closed. The back of the hammer catches on the back of the bolt which stops its motion

Thanks for that suggestion! I will indeed look at that as a possible culprit if the steps taken so far didn't solve the problem.
 
joe, the good people of this forum have put a lot more thought into my problem than S&W did. The factory didn’t even attempt to diagnose the issue. They received my gun, determined it was too old for them, and turned it around and sent back to me.

UNFORTUNATELY C H, THAT SEEMS TO BE THE CURRENT STATE OF AFFAIRS AT S&W.....

ALL OF THE OL' TIMERS THAT HAD PRIDE IN WHAT THEY DID, AND WOULD HAVE MADE THE EFFORT TO AT LEAST POINT YOU IN A GOOD DIRECTION, ARE ALL RETIRED, OR HAVE PASSED ON......
 
Stupid question but one I feel compelled to ask. Are you absolutely sure you are letting the trigger fully reset after each shot? If it’s not this will lock up the gun. A weak or cut rebound spring can cause the same issue. I know actual shooting and dry fire practice can produce different results because “in the heat of the moment” when firing we tend to do things a little differently.

When you return to the range take your time shooting and make sure you are fully releasing the trigger and you’re getting that last click.

I just find it curious that you can get it to cycle after locking up by releasing the trigger so I figured it’s worrh a try. Same thing happened to a friend of mine **cough cough me cough** :)
 
Stupid question but one I feel compelled to ask. Are you absolutely sure you are letting the trigger fully reset after each shot? If it’s not this will lock up the gun. A weak or cut rebound spring can cause the same issue. I know actual shooting and dry fire practice can produce different results because “in the heat of the moment” when firing we tend to do things a little differently.

When you return to the range take your time shooting and make sure you are fully releasing the trigger and you’re getting that last click.

I just find it curious that you can get it to cycle after locking up by releasing the trigger so I figured it’s worrh a try. Same thing happened to a friend of mine **cough cough me cough** :)

That is not a stupid question at all. The first few times it malfunctioned, I wondered the same thing. From that point on, I have been in "diagnose mode" when shooting this particular gun, so I make it a deliberate point to fully pull the trigger and let it fully reset with each shot, just to see if it'll malfunction. Not to mention, I have over a dozen S&W revolvers and have been shooting for about 30 years, and I have never had a problem with short-stroking triggers in the past.
 
Figured it was worth a try. I have 4 gp100’s and the latest one, a 22 I short stroked it a bunch at first. From what I understand they have a lighter trigger return spring and if I have a little pressure on the trigger it won’t fully return. Some clean up helped a lot though. And yeah I felt like an idiot!
 
Ok, if you last cleaning doesn't fix the problem and you're relatively close to Sacramento, try taking it to the Sacramento Armory on Greenback Lane in Citrus Heights. Jim Vanhorn is the very competent smith there and he should be able to find a fix. Also, you won't have to mortgage your house to pay the bill. You might want to email or call ahead, [email protected] or (916)745-3317.
 
Ok, if you last cleaning doesn't fix the problem and you're relatively close to Sacramento, try taking it to the Sacramento Armory on Greenback Lane in Citrus Heights. Jim Vanhorn is the very competent smith there and he should be able to find a fix. Also, you won't have to mortgage your house to pay the bill. You might want to email or call ahead, [email protected] or (916)745-3317.

OldChief - Thanks! That's good to know and I will definitely keep it in mind if I can't figure this out myself -- I do get over to Sacramento periodically. Nothing inside appears to be "broken" and this revolver did initially work for me flawlessly with first couple of boxes, so I'm hoping the disassemble, clean, lube did something good.
 
Take it completely apart and look at it and figure it out. That’s what makes this hobby fun! They are really not that complicated. Get the kunhausen book and spend some money on a few tools rather than sending it off. That’s what I started doing many years ago
 
If you were switching from 38 spl to 357 a carbon build up in the cyllinder from the .38’s can cause the 357’s to be backed off slightly & intermitently. Easy to check & clean if appropriate.
 
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