Hammer stud broke on my 442

ABPOS

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Last range session I had a round not ignite.
Primer strike looked shallow.
Examined firing pin and measured (a gentleman on here told me specs in the smithing forum)
Looked too shallow with the gauges I had.
Decided to open her up and see if there was gunk restricting movement.
Found Hammer stud broken.
I used proper procedure to remove plate. No prying, tapped frame.

Anyone else have this happen? I'm wondering if they decide to replace the whole gun if I can ask for an upcharge and get a steel model.... We'll see what they say. Hopefully shipping back tonight. If I can get to fedex while they're still open.

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Also, I still don't understand what the truth is about off center primer strikes. This gun has been decently accurate for me and I know the primer strikes have never been right dead center. This one is more off than what I'm used to but I'm guessing if the hammer stud was busted, that might have something to do with it.

What's weird is this gun shot several rounds after that one and ran just fine at the range. LOL.

I'm sort of irritated and not sure if I'll trust one again.... But then again, I know stuff happens.
 
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Yup. Happened to me a few years ago with my 642-1. I first noticed an issue while dry firing it. Releasing the trigger caused the cylinder to partially reverse rotate. I opened it up and found the hammer stud broken. The gun had ~1500 rounds through it, ~500 of them +P, and possibly 10x as many dry fires.

I sent it off to S&W after they sent me a shipping label. They replaced the gun free of charge under warranty, free shipping to my FFL, and they reimbursed me for the NICS fees.

I don't know about the upgrade, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. I would assume they'd ask you to pay the difference.

I don't know about the off-center primer strikes. It looks like you have the frame-mounted firing pin, so I'm not sure how a broken hammer stud can cause that. I could see it happening with a hammer-mounted firing pin like on the no-dash models, but not with a -1/-2. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
 
ABPOS,

In my long years of carrying, shooting, and depending on revolvers, I have experienced two different occasions of a broken hammer stud. In both cases, the revolvers continued to function for a time. One case involved a revolver I bought here on the forum, received it after shipment to my FFL, and thoroughly examined it without dissassembly. It had a really good trigger, tried and agreed with by my FFL who is experienced. Both of us dry fired the revolver several times. As is my usual practice, I took it home, opened it up in preparation for a full internal cleaning, and found that the hammer stud was broken. I actually reassembled it, with a bit of fiddling to get the hammer stud recaptured captured in the corresponding cavity in the sideplate that anchors that stud on both ends when operating the action under full spring pressure. It still had a good trigger, but I detected the sluggishness that I first thought was caused by it being dirty and gummy inside. I did not fire it, but I am certain that the broken hammer stud resulted in and caused the hammer fall to be compromised. The fall was slowed and possibly not allowing the full weight of the hammer spring to be employed on the firing pin.

The second instance involved an alloy framed revolver that was also used when it came to me. I have no idea how either of these revolvers was handled prior to coming into my hands. I have become very aware that one should never cycle the action on a revolver under full spring tension with the sideplate removed. That places stress on the stud exactly in the location they usually break off. But I have heard of fairly new one owner guns who have experience broken hammer studs. Not many but a few.

My steel framed revolver was sent to S&S, had the hammer stud replaced and the floating hand mechanism replaced with the standard type, and this required that revolver to need to be refinished to make it all good. I paid for that repair since the revolver was not a new one. The alloy framed revolver was replaced, as I suspect yours will be. I have had zero issues since with either one. The alloy frame has been fired a fairly large number of rounds. I have a Model 442 that will be 26 years old this coming November. Between my wife and I, it has been fired more than 8000 rounds with no issues.

Things happen ... they just do. These instances involve a very small percentage of all the guns that are made and sold. But when it happens to you, it is a cause for concern. I understand that, but if you like that 442, I would have no hesitation recommending that you accept a replacement, especially if you can get one without the infernal lock. Not that having the lock will likely ever cause a problem ... it's just my personal preference. I say you can trust a new 442 as much as any other model that you might choose. Get it, go shoot the snot out of it, and if it works, trust it!
 
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I'm putting a letter in there asking if they were going to replace the whole gun, if they'd be open to giving me a steel model for an upcharge. Like a 649. I also said I'd prefer having a 638 first choice. But I'd be happy with a 442 also.

We'll see what they say. I didn't get to fedex tonight and not sure I will tomorrow. I have to take care of some things with my Grandma tomorrow. She's 97.

But I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the words of wisdom KThom. I have had kind of lousy luck with my carry guns. But yeah, I do like it a lot. It shot well for me. And was accurate for me.
 
Fedex delivered this morning......

Wonder how long it will take them to get at it. I mean in days, not hours. I have heard of pretty fast turn around times though.
 
Fedex delivered this morning......

Wonder how long it will take them to get at it. I mean in days, not hours. I have heard of pretty fast turn around times though.

FWIW, I think it took about 2 months between my sending my gun to S&W and receiving its replacement. It may have been a week or two less, but not more than 2 months.
 
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I also had a 442-1 with a broken stud.

For Posts 7 & 8, my records show my 442-1 replacement took from 1/18/16 when I got the FEDEX label and sent off the gun, until 3/5/16, when the replacement gun was received and re-DRoSed at my FFL.

Subsequent to re-DRoSing the new gun, I later re-contacted S&W to get reimbursed for the fees my FFL charged for receiving a firearm for me and re-DRoSing the new gun.
 
About a year ago I got my repaired gun back from them in four weeks. I imagine a replacement could take longer, but there is hope things are slow in the repair and warranty department.
 
same thing on my 642, payed the difference and got a 640, common on those guns for that stud to break. For some reason I could not get a 686 though, if memory serves me right that was during the shortage.
 
Not something you want to hear regarding a firearm carried for defensive purposes.

Good info in this thread. Thanks for sharing it.
 
same thing on my 642, payed the difference and got a 640, common on those guns for that stud to break. For some reason I could not get a 686 though, if memory serves me right that was during the shortage.

They let you pay a difference and get a different gun???? Hmmmmmmm......

It's funny how they change their approach for different people. Was it someone in this thread say they wouldn't let them do that?

I was thinking about running out and getting another one right away and then I'll just have two. One as a BUG. But I'd rather have a steel frame.... But they cost more. I don't have really any extra money but I do have guns I can trade.

I'm not sure what to do now. It might be better off to wait until I hear from them.

Right now I'm planning on carrying my HiPower. Which I don't really want to do. I'm carrying it AIWB but I'm not chambering a round. Not really my favorite way of carrying but I don't trust it AIWB and I don't really want to go back to 4 oclock.

I have a Colt DS I could carry which would be the best option. But I swear every time I determine I'm going to start carrying it, it's like it has bad luck. Bad stuff happens to the point that it seems not coincidental. I know. Sounds a little wonky. I think it's my subconscious wanting to keep that one pristine because it's in really good condition and the price on those just seem to keep going up. These Colt guys are... well they really like their guns.
 
They let you pay a difference and get a different gun???? Hmmmmmmm......

It's funny how they change their approach for different people. Was it someone in this thread say they wouldn't let them do that?

I was thinking about running out and getting another one right away and then I'll just have two. One as a BUG. But I'd rather have a steel frame.... But they cost more. I don't have really any extra money but I do have guns I can trade.

I'm not sure what to do now. It might be better off to wait until I hear from them.

Right now I'm planning on carrying my HiPower. Which I don't really want to do. I'm carrying it AIWB but I'm not chambering a round. Not really my favorite way of carrying but I don't trust it AIWB and I don't really want to go back to 4 oclock.

I have a Colt DS I could carry which would be the best option. But I swear every time I determine I'm going to start carrying it, it's like it has bad luck. Bad stuff happens to the point that it seems not coincidental. I know. Sounds a little wonky. I think it's my subconscious wanting to keep that one pristine because it's in really good condition and the price on those just seem to keep going up. These Colt guys are... well they really like their guns.

Things can be cursed, not jacking with you here but being real. I'd sell that to one of the Colt "Fanbois" and get a lovely Smith, maybe a 3" barreled M24-3 in .44Special.

As for waiting for S&W's customer service on a replacement, yeah, it's going to be some time. I'd go get a steel one if you really want one, sell the Colt, have the 442 as a back up when you get it back from Smith, & still have $$$ left over for the Colt sale to buy whatever you wanted. YMMV...
 
I'm glad I'm not alone in my observation. I don't know if it's cursed, you might be right, but it sure feels like it sometimes. LOL. It's bizarre. The thing is, my daughter likes that gun. So.... I might save it for her. And see if she has any bad luck with it. Or, I'll sell it later. They just keep going up. I do prefer the trigger on a smith.

And yeah, I think I should get another one. Even if I got another airweight, I can throw the 442 in a back pack for a BUG or pocket BUG, when I get it back. Or whatever I get back from the factory. I'm going to try to get them to give me a 638 or 642 cuz I wanna try the lighter frame because the sights are aluminum and may pick up better at night. Then I won't have to paint it like I did my 442. I'd be happy with a 442 though. Especially if they give me another no lock. Mine didn't have a lock.
 
Yes sir, they let me upgrade, I called and asked as soon as I found out they would replace it, I think the 640 cost me an extra $180.00 and I bought my 642 used and they never questioned anything. If you use the search you'll find other threads about this problem, I would never buy another 442/642, just never liked that gun, I believe all the dry firing trying to smooth/lighten that stiff trigger is what causes those pins to break, IMO if you can upgrade to the 640.
 
Yeah, I dry fire mine regularly. Ugh. I had this big idea to go out and trade for a 637 my lgs has, just to have something quick. But now I want to wait to see if they'll let me upgrade. I would rather have a 649. Or 60. Or a 640. Or heck, even a 36.
 
got an email from smith today saying they received it and are processing it. I know they received it on Friday according to Fedex.

Will keep you all updated.
 
Every time I see someone post about a broken hammer stud it reinforces my belief/trust in the PD/MP line of revolvers, they use titanium pivot pins and I've yet to hear of one breaking...not bashing the more standard lines of revolvers but when on the other hand people spout off on the extra cost of a 340PD for their only perceived 2oz weight loss it really doesn't take into account the other gains from using titanium in the right places. If you really liked your j frame and want to trust it more, maybe consider a upgrade. Personally I would not feel comfortable carrying any other than my 340PD after years of hearing about these broken pivot pins, not just on the air weights but the stainless 640 models also seeming to have this issue. I don't know if folks just are dry firing the living day lights out of them(which I've never done) but man I'd have some serious reservations shooting one a lot for practice and then not knowing when it might fail. So paranoid I am that I actually have a second 340 range slave..it is only for range use to save on wear on the daily carried one.
 
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