Model 48-3 Questions

[Porterb123]

I'm looking over this revolver that my brother inherited from our Dad. He's had it for years and hardly shoots it saying it locks up almost every shot. I just got the internals cleaned and lubricated. It was dry as a bone and crusty inside. This got the action moving smoothly with no hangups double or single action.
The ejector rod has not backed out and is tight. I see no burs in the extractor
star.
What I have noticed is there seems to be very little room for the cylinder to rotate freely. From the recoil shield to the back of the cylinder is a snug .018"
The barrel/cylinder gap is .002" That is the tightest gap I have ever seen on any revolver. Am I missing anything?
Any thoughts welcomed

 

[series guy]

.22 ammunition is pretty dirty stuff. The face of the cylinder gets fouled with lead and powder also under the ejector collects powder fouling. Cleaning these areas helps but the best fix for extended range sessions is to increase the barrel cylinder gap. It's a very simple procedure with the correct tools and does not require barrel removal.

 

[Porterb123]

Thanks much for the reply! I do most of my own smithing and grind a few knives. I can see an accurate jig at parallel to barrel face and a smooth file.
My new 648 has a barrel /cylinder gap of .008. Would that be a good starting place for the 48?
Thanks again

 

[ken158]

I believe .006 would be a good place to be... Just remember to keep it clean under the ratchet.

 

[Porterb123]

Thank you both!!

 

[series guy]

.008 wouldn't bother me at all.

 

[Camster]

My 48 would bind rather quickly due to powder residue building up under the star.

 

[stu1ritter]

How much fore/aft play is there with the cylinder in the closed position? I don't remember the spec for Headspace (between cylinder and recoil shield) but as I remember it is less than .018". Some of your cylinder to barrel clearance could be found there.

Stu

 

[Porterb123]

I did not measure end shake, if that is the correct term, but will check. But the fore and aft movement is almost non existent. I would guess .003 or so.

 

[stu1ritter]

S&W Armorers manual, page 55, Rear Gage, Headspace, (end shake) for rimfire revolvers is .008-.010. Unless I'm overlooking something, you are a tad wide and that should bring your barrel/cylinder clearance into spec.

Stu

 

[armorer951]

You might want to disassemble and thoroughly clean and flush out everything inside the cylinder assembly before you attempt to take measurements on the rear gauge/headspace, and front B/C gap. If there is any dirt or crud in there....or even lubricants, the measurements will be off.

 

[NavySCPO]

You might want to disassemble and thoroughly clean and flush out everything inside the cylinder assembly before you attempt to take measurements on the rear gauge/headspace, and front B/C gap. If there is any dirt or crud in there....or even lubricants, the measurements will be off.

OP, listen to this gentleman very carefully and do what he says. He walked me through the cleaning and re-assembly of my recently acquired 18-3. I wanted to fix or replace when all it needed was a good cleaning from all that nasty 22 ammo...it works perfectly now.

 

[stu1ritter]

Little further research in my Armorers manual shows 22 Magnum at .004-.008 Headspace, even smaller than Long Rifle rimfire.

Stu

 

[Bullet Bob]

Personally, I'd shoot it before doing anything else and see how it performs. You never know.