where to get loading data

akoda

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I am setting up to start reloading. I have the hornady reloading manual, it is my single source right now for data. where do i get data on some of the one off bullet companies. i recently bought some 124 RN 9mm from bayou, do I look for data on a similarly sized and shaped bullet and go from there?

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I am setting up to start reloading. I have the hornady reloading manual, it is my single source right now for data. where do i get data on some of the one off bullet companies. i recently bought some 124 RN 9mm from bayou, do I look for data on a similarly sized and shaped bullet and go from there?

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That's what most will do including me. Start low and work up to your liking.
 
Jacketed bullets are best referenced by bullet maker .
Hornady makes jacketed and soft swaged lead so use their data for their bullets .
The same applies for: Speer, Sierra and Nosler

Now we get to Bayou Bullets and a bunch of other companies that supply cast lead , powder coated lead and plated lead ...

Your best bet here is Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 and/or #4 .
Use the data for a cast bullet for cast lead , powder coated lead and plated bullets . Do Not use the data for jacketed bullets for the softer ones .
Can't find exact data for a cast ,coated or plated bullet ...use the data for a same weight and profile I.E. 115 grain Truncated Cone from the Lyman Manuals or use data published by the powder companies.

Western Powders /Accurate Arms manual has data for a lot of the smaller bullet makers and some using Berry's and Rainier bullets .

Data for cast , which would be used for coated and plated , is best served by the Lyman and Lee cast bullet manuals .

Western Powders Manual covers some of each type bullet

Sometimes you have no choice but to use data not exactly worked up for your bullet... in that case match bullet construction :
Full metal jacket , soft point , JHP
soft swaged lead , cast lead (which includes coated lead and plated)
Weight
Profile- RN, WC, SWC , TC
Find a bullet that matches as closely as possible to the bullet you wish to load ....then Rule #1- start low and work a load up slowly.

That's the basic's , use common sense and load safely.
Gary
 
About 48 years ago I started reloading. Gathered quite a collection of reloading data published by bullet manufacturers and powder makers. Along the way I have purchased quite a few manuals (Speer, Hornady, Sierra, Lyman, and others). What I remember most clearly are the repeated advisements to exercise caution and common sense, starting at the bottom end of the charts and working up slowly and carefully.

All of that was pre-internet. Now you can Google a thousand sources easily. The same advisements apply regarding caution and common sense.

Be careful and enjoy!
 
For lead bullets......

....the Lyman manual is your best choice. They make a very complete manual with lead and jacketed. I saw no reason to buy the 'lead only' version though it does have some stuff on casting bullet.

Also, the front of the Lyman has a great, big 'how to' section in the front. I've also got Speer Manuals.

The powder manufacturers have a lot of load data on line now if you go to their website. Hodgdon covers several brands and I also use the Alliant site a lot.

Get a good scale. Lee hand loader scoops work, but you want to know what you are REALLY putting in the case if you are the slightest bit serious about it.
 
Bullets matter, so does powder. Lyman has a lot of lead data because they build molds. Speer, Hornady and Sierra have a lot of jacketed data because that's what they mostly sell. Powder companies sell to all reloaders so they try to cover the bases. That load data is online.

I load both lead and jacketed bullets. I mostly use the Alliant website and the Hornady manual. I have Speer and Lyman manuals also that I use as a cross reference and a check. I only use Alliant for powder. Makes things a lot simpler.

Enjoy your new tools.
 
I recently purchased and loaded the same bullets. I used the Hodgon's website for lead data, and cross referenced with Lyman's 50th edition manual. Bayou recommends a COAL of 1.08".
 
The Hornady book is a great source. I use one myself. As well as a Speer Book, and I have the three latest additions of, Lee Modern Reloading. (The latest addition looks almost identical, it's really just a reprinting with some updated powders.). Hornady makes a great bullet, with some aspects that I like better than Speer. Not knocking Speer. My S&W 64 loves Speer target HP's and my S&W69 prefers Hornady XTP. I haven't shot the speer lead. I've been too happy with Hornady Frontier lead. Whatever bullet, I'm loading, it their data I'm using.
 
I recently purchased and loaded the same bullets. I used the Hodgon's website for lead data, and cross referenced with Lyman's 50th edition manual. Bayou recommends a COAL of 1.08".
You are assuming the OP is reloading for 9mm Luger (9X19) but he stated he "recently bought some 124 RN 9mm from Bayou",
that bullet can be used to load 357 SIG, 38 acp , 38 Super and a few others ... In reloading it is not wise to assume anything .
Verify everything before giving out loading data and verify all data gleaned from the internet with a printed source before using it .

You can't be too careful or too safe in this hobby .
Gary
 
I will be reloading for my 9mm. thanks all for your replies.

one thing I keep seeing, even in this thread, is to shoot what you gun likes, I am not sure how yo tell that [emoji4] I guess it comes down to grouping? feel?

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I will be reloading for my 9mm. thanks all for your replies.

one thing I keep seeing, even in this thread, is to shoot what you gun likes, I am not sure how yo tell that [emoji4] I guess it comes down to grouping? feel?

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Yes, and perhaps a bit more.

You can adjust your loads for low recoil, max or minimum required power, to bring POI to POA, maximum precision, etc. For rifle there are more considerations like minimum ES and SD . . . Extreme Spread (of muzzle velocities) and Standard Deviation (consistency/ likelihood of similar MVs round to round).

For pistol, sometimes just matching the recoil, case ejection distance, and grouping potential to some factory rounds pleases some. Others will test from a rest (often at longer distances), much like rifle, to get max precision.

IOW, you set the goal then adjust/test loads to suit.
 
Used book sites often give good prices on older manuals/handbooks. I always try to verify loads with a second source.
 
Lyman is my preferred choice in cast data. Begin with their suggested starting weight charge. Before actually reloading make sure that you read all instructions in your reloading manual.

As Bayou recommends...”We recommend using standard cast bullet loading data.”
 
I will be reloading for my 9mm. thanks all for your replies.

one thing I keep seeing, even in this thread, is to shoot what you gun likes, I am not sure how yo tell that [emoji4] I guess it comes down to grouping? feel?

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Revolvers are fairly simple , if the round will chamber it will usually fire .
Semi auto's are trickier , the round must fit into a magazine, feed smoothly from magazine , up the feed ramp and into the chamber, the power of the fired round must be enough to operate the action...eject the case , reload a fresh round , cock the gun , fully return to battery and reset the trigger...but the load can't be too hot or you damage the gun ...
You have to find the load your gun will do all this with and be accurate with ... sometimes a bit of load development is required to get everything ...just right.
The 9mm Luger and cast/coated bullets can be a stinker to get everything all worked out , newer pistols have little or no throat and this makes matters worse .
Just keep trying loads until you find the one .
Gary
 
I have 4 hard copy loading manuals, a few electronic manuals, and lots of electronic data from bullet manufacturers. I will compare the powder manufacture load data to 3 or 4 sources to get a general idea of a start to max load. The different components and barrel lengths tend to make it more confusing.

On your Bayou 124gr 9mm I am using CFEpistol for my Colt Government model. I am using S&B pistol primers, 4.7gr of CFE and I am getting 1144 FPS. I have pushed the 124gr up to 1210 fps with 5.0gr of CFE but the 4.7gr gave me better groups. The CFE with the Bayou coated bullets make for a very clean running gun.

Work up your own load as this load works well with my 1911 and my 92AF INOX does not like it. The INOX likes a 135gr bullet using 2400 powder to push it to 1090fps and it runs a bit dirty.
 
I've gotta chime in here....

akoda: Drifting the thread a little: Reading through the thread, all the books noted are good references. I like the Lyman books, they're a little more general, and list some cast data.

One thing I didn't see is to start a book(s) of your own. For a rifle, a book to each gun. Maybe a bigger one for all your pistol loading. Object is to keep track of all your loading activity. Most book stores and office supply stores have blank 'journal' hardbound books for not too much. Or even a black/blue bound notebook will work.

Isolate your brass into manageable lots(20,50, etc), especially for rifles, assigned to keep separate and how many times reloaded. Also any specific gun information, target info, gun repairs, scope mountings, etc. I find it really helps when you go back several months/years looking for what you did on a particular load. Also helps if you sell the gun or pass it on to someone. I also use the word processor to make ammo box labels, both big labels, and loading labels, noting all pertinent load info. Just figure out what you want to record and go from there.

-West
 
I agree with WestDivide. Keep a reloading journal. You will reference it often. It ends up being your personal reloading manual.
 

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