Grease for the hammer block

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I've been working on my guns for around 35 years, and always kept my S&W's lubed with oil/break free. I have read several articles that profess, "If it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it". Having some extra time on my hands lately, I disassembled a few S&W's and did that, put grease on the rebound spring slide, and the hammer block channel in the side plate. I was amazed how much smoother the action felt.
 
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Caution, opinion follows:

Based on thirty-five years of armorer experience, I wouldn't do this on guns that are used for carry, or ones that may be subjected to extreme cold. The viscosity of some greases makes them very thick when cold, and this can interfere with the proper function of the internals. (AKA: the gun doesn't fire)

For guns used exclusively at the range, this "extra" (heavier viscosity) lubricant or grease may not be an issue. However, for carry guns, it's better to err on the side of too little lubricant, than too much. Also, for carry or duty, be sure to use light oils, preferably synthetics. And, if you serve in a very cold environment, no oil or lubricants at all.

Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant spray and Super Lube Dri-Film Lubricant spray are good alternatives to traditional mineral oil based oils and greases when internal lubricant is needed for firearms in service in cold or extreme cold conditions.
 
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The old "If it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it" doesn't always hold true.

One example is that M1 and M14/M1A shooters found out that if they grease the trigger pins they don't break like oiled pins often do.

I've used Synco Super Lube Teflon oil and grease on customer and my own revolvers and autos for many years.
The oil is a thick oil/thin grease consistency, and the grease is a thick grease, both clear-white in color.
Both stay right where you put them, don't run off, wick off, sling off, dry out, or evaporate.

I've opened up customer guns as much as 10 years after servicing and found the Super Lube still in place and still working.

These are good from -65 to +450 and I've never heard any complaints about freezing up.
True, it doesn't get that cold around here, but if you're going to the Arctic or northern most USA in a hard winter you'd probably want a specific cold weather lubricant.
For every pistol used in very cold conditions there are probably a dozen used in very hot conditions.
If you're in Texas or New Orleans in the summer you need a lube that won't thin out and run off.
I've seen brown or tan holsters that carried guns lubed with light oils that have the bottom stained dark by the oil that ran out and was absorbed by the leather.

I used Super Lube grease on S&W rebound slides and other key contact points with excellent results.
The action is smoother and therefore seems lighter.

So, if you're going to be carrying a pistol in bitter cold conditions you probably should look into a cold weather lube, but if you're the average gun carrier in areas with milder or hot conditions grease can really work well.
At least grease stays put and doesn't disappear. People open up a pistol lubed with a liquid lube and are surprised to find there's no lubricant left, it all dried out or ran off.
 
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I finally got lazy. Last few I was inside of I kinda cheated.
I pulled the side plate, sprayed inside with carb cleaner to
blow the crud out. After it dried I sprayed it with Hornady
One Shot. Works real well in cold weather.
 
Show me a revolver manual that says use grease?
Yea old grease it mantra is BS
Grease hold dirt and debris


A few drops of oil (any kind) is all that is needed.


Kinda like the AR15 guys (she likes to run wet) BS.:rolleyes: Maybe in full auto shooting thousands of round but not for everyday shooting. There are three bearing surfaces on the bolt. Then they want to "grease er up":confused:
 
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Show me a revolver manual that says use grease?
Yea old grease it mantra is BS
Grease hold dirt and debris


A few drops of oil (any kind) is all that is needed.


Kinda like the AR15 guys (she likes to run wet) BS.:rolleyes: Maybe in full auto shooting thousands of round but not for everyday shooting. There are three bearing surfaces on the bolt. Then they want to "grease er up":confused:
I use bacon grease on all of my guns..
Has multiple affects. Like Blue Emu: "And you won't stink"!
 
Only place I oil my smith revolvers is the yoke barrel with one or two drops of Rem oil. Spread evenly then wipe off the excess.

Less oil less dirt more reliable function.
 
I've been working on my guns for around 35 years, and always kept my S&W's lubed with oil/break free. I have read several articles that profess, "If it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it". Having some extra time on my hands lately, I disassembled a few S&W's and did that, put grease on the rebound spring slide, and the hammer block channel in the side plate. I was amazed how much smoother the action felt.

Just my .02 centavos............

Grease should NEVER be used inside a revolvers lock-works! It will thicken in the cold weather and over time. It will attract dust, unburnt powder, debris, etc. and actually become an abrasive. While it may exhibit short term benefits, in the long term I believe it to be a bad idea.

IMO Grease really should not be used on handguns but in the hot weather when shooting a lot it might benefit lubrication and wear on Semi Auto's that will be shot, taken apart, fully cleaned and then re-lubricated. This way the grease is not on there for any period of time and is only minimally compromised.

Revolvers which are normally not fully disassembled every time they are shot are a whole different ball of wax. Again this is only my opinion and YMMV as always.
 
The real question is why is the OP taking his guns apart for no real reason??:D


iu
 
I've been working on my guns for around 35 years, and always kept my S&W's lubed with oil/break free. I have read several articles that profess, "If it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it". Having some extra time on my hands lately, I disassembled a few S&W's and did that, put grease on the rebound spring slide, and the hammer block channel in the side plate. I was amazed how much smoother the action felt.

You are going to have a Mell of a Hess when you go back inside.
May as well bite the bullet and clean it now before the crude accumulates. Don't ask how I know.....
 

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