Revolver grease?

What we’re looking for is stable protection and lubricity. The key word is stable. There are no wheel bearings in revolvers.
Fair enough, but there are surfaces that oil will flow from due to gravity. I use a very light coating of grease on the hammer and trigger stud and on the sides and bottom of the rebound slide. Too much grease tends to collect dirt and turn to crud, but a light film will provide lubrication long after oil has run off or in some cases, dried up.

Other than those three places, everything else gets a light coating of oil.
 
I do not use grease on handguns. It tends to pick up more debris, dust, unburned powder residue and pocket bunnies than oil. I am not saying grease isn't a good lubricant (short term) but oil will not attract as much of the unwanted junk in a HG. Once grease gets contaminated with debris it can actually become abrasive.
 
LSA is between a grease and an oil, hence the 'semi-fluid' description. It has a thickner combined with the oil, which is what makes something a grease. From the spec, the primary thickner is Lithium stearate. from what I've gathered it has slightly higher viscosity (at least at low termperatures) than the old PL-S and probably CLP. In sliding friction tests it has about the same as PL-S or slightly lower friction.


I would expect its main drawbacks would be the same as any grease - best not used in dusty or sand environments - and may get gummy and dried out over many years.


from Aug 2015 PS Monthly
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A short story about the origins of synthetic lubricants. As a young base engine design engineer I became friends with the Mobil Oil account engineer while running a bearing wear study. Clark K. provided product for testing, along with other companies.

Clark shared with me that the US military had commissioned Mobil Oil to develop a high temperature wheel bearing grease to solve the problem of the then new jet aircraft (F-86) prematurely failing the landing gear bearings upon landing at much higher speeds. The result was a long chain product that tolerated the high temperature. It was affectionately called “chicken blood” and had a mil spec.

It was this technology from the 1950’s that led to the creation of synthetic motor oil. And so, it seems a bit ironic that the lubricating oil we have grown to appreciate so much is the offspring of grease.
 
@OldEngineer
You got me curious to look again at the descriptions of PLS and LSA. At least as of the 1980s (revision C) the LSA specification requires its composition to be 89% base stock of bis(2-ethylhexyl)ester. From my little knowledge of oils that sounded like a synthetic oil. A websearch confirmed that. For example

"The bis(2-ethylhexyl)ester of sebacic acid is a widely used synthetic lubricant having various applications in the aerospace, automobile and manufacturing industries."


I don't know if this was the oil base of the original LSA spec, but it sounds like it could have been.
 
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I can certainly see the military wanting to advance the technology for synthetic lubricants. Whatever they use has to work in any environment on the planet and oftentimes the traditional lubes simply won't cut it.
 
Do you use a specific grease/lube on the hammer & trigger springs? I took the side plate off because it felt a little gummy and cleaned up white grease. What do you recommend using? I know there should be some lubricant there, but don't have anything other than some grease for fishing reels.

I use Mil Spec CLP or Ballistol as my revolver lube…don’t overdo it.
 
In my world, the only purpose for RIG grease is protection from corrosion in the case of long term storage.

For ordinary use, a high quality gun oil used very sparingly is all that is necessary.

On the very rare occasion that the sideplate is removed, one drop each on the trigger stud and on the hammer stud. Then, one drop on the fingertip is spread around on the internal parts and on the inside of the frame. Any excess is wiped off. That is it on the inside.

On the outside, one drop on the fingertip is spread around on the outside surfaces, and any excess is wiped off.

Never over-lubricate a gun. Oil attracts dust and grime, creating a mud or grime that is no good on the internals.
 
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