Revolver grease?

I like a little boron nitride grease on the yoke pin and on the hammer & trigger pins. It's very light and slippery, and I've never had issues with cold weather using it. I've played around with that bike chain stuff too, but its melting point is somewhere around butter...if I use grease I want it to stay put, not run away on a hot day.

Most automotive greases are far thicker and tackier at room temperature. I have used moly grease on pump shotguns in select spots, but never on handguns of any type.
 
I spray with Ballistol, brush it out thoroughly, hose w Ballistol again, blow out with air and close the plate, good to go for years
 
I grease my revolvers with the same stuff I use for my Fetzer valves and ball bearings. :D Kidding aside, traditionally I used Rem oil or similar, but lately I've been using Finish Line ceramic chain lube. Stuff works great! Reduces trigger pull a tad and doesn't attract dirt, not that it was much of a problem before. ;)
 
In general, I go along with the "No grease, and very little oil" school. However, I have found that a very sparing application (wiped on with a greasy finger and pretty much wiped off with same) of RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube is both safe and effective. It is useful primarily in high-pressure applications, like sear-notch interface and a few others. In my NY-1 Model 60 I certainly used it on the hammer pin, and I used it once to eliminate a hitch in the DA pull of a 25-2 which existed when the gun was lubed with Ed's Red and disappeared with the re-installation of RIG +P and not much else.

Despite the +P rating, it is safe for pre-57 revolvers. For 1911 pistols, however, I strongly recommend that you repeat all safety checks before allowing any ammo near the pistol. It is almost, but not quite, a trigger job in a jar for 1911 actions.
 
NO grease for me in revolvers. I have cleaned a bunch of them out that had been greased. Messy and unnecessary.
CorrosionX has more lubricity than Mobil 1 synthetic. I apply it to parts with a shaving brush with the bristles cut to about 1 inch. If you can see "wet" oil you put too much. ;)

CorrosionX
– Corrosion Technologies
 
While I have not tried it...I have talked to and seen where many have given big thumbs up to this bicycle chain wax being used in guns.
chain-wax.jpg
 
I recently purchased a 1978 27-2 31/2 inch with presentation box and paper work. I paid top dollar for it because it was essentially as-new. It has a very fine turn line, and WAS stiff as a board. The assembly lubrication had dried up and the gun was difficult to open and the cylinder did not turn freely. It had not been handled for decades. I don’t believe that this would have happened with synthetic oil that doesn’t oxidize and leave behind the paraffin (wax) from mineral oil. A tiny drop of Skinny Mobil 1 in the right places and it’s ready for service ——- should I choose to shoot it.

Tom H.
 
Probably the very best thing you can say about grease is it stays where you put it. It's that very quality that attracted me to Wilson Combat's Ultima-Lube II Universal. Here's what it has to say about itself on the bottle.

-All Purpose Lube For All Firearms
-Stays Put Under Extreme Conditions
-150 to 30 Degrees Optimum Temperature Range----(I reckon that leaves out North Dakota, where I lived for five years--------and where I learned if you spit on the sidewalk at 44 degrees BELOW zero, it'll bounce when it hits!!!!)
-Contains Slickest Substance Known to Man

That said, it's an oil---a rather thin one at that---and it's GOOD STUFF!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
What we’re looking for is stable protection and lubricity. The key word is stable. There are no wheel bearings in revolvers.
 
I use LSA55 military weapons oil and no grease. I figure the Army tested it well enough to be a quality lube.

The only grease I use is Ponsness- Warren STOS on the hinge pins of shotguns
 
I use LSA55 military weapons oil and no grease. I figure the Army tested it well enough to be a quality lube.

The only grease I use is Ponsness- Warren STOS on the hinge pins of shotguns


I'm not familiar with that one. The LSA I see referenced in the TM and such is a relatively heavy oil for light machineguns and heavier automatic weapons.

LSA stands for "Lubricant, Semifluid, Automatic weapons." and it is mentioned in the FM-3-23-35 for the M9 and M11 but only not to mix it with CLP.

The spec can be downloaded as a pdf here
MIL-L-46000 C LUBRICANT SEMI-FLUID


Here's one manufacturer of oil that meet the current milspec.
Mil-spec Lubes | Weapon Lubricant | MIL-L-46000C | SENT-46000

There were lighter gun oils used before CLP, for various small arms. Toward the end of WW2 Special Oil, Preserving and Lubricating became used for both normal temperatures and cold weather. Grease was applied to specific points in the Garand, and for better protection from rain on the carbine - but for the carbine only in that situation.

edit: The curent version of that is
"MIL-PRF-32033, PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATION: LUBRICATING OIL, GENERAL PURPOSE, PRESERVATIVE (WATER-DISPLACING, LOW TEMPERATURE) (24 JUL 2000) [SUPERSEDING VV-L-800C]., This specification covers one type and grade of water-displacing, preservative lubricating oil,..... The oil is identified by Military Symbol PL-S and NATO Code Number O-190."


Bottom line. I do think your logic is sound that the military spent some effort in selecting or specing oil that provides lubrication and preservative functions. Just pointing out that one is more for severe high pressure and heat uses.
 
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I just started using Lubriplate. I’ll get back to you in a few years with an opinion.
 
I just started using Lubriplate. I’ll get back to you in a few years with an opinion.

I've not used Lubriplate as a gun lube though I'm are it will do a good job. Lubriplate has been used for years in automobiles...particularly in window regulators.
 
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