My Model 18 needs attention

[max503]

Hello. Over the years I've disassembled/assembled my S&W's. I don't have a lot of them.
Took my 1950's era Model 18 out yesterday and it had light primer strikes in DA mode. Average one/cylinder full. SA was fine.
Do K Frame main springs ever need replaced, or do you just adjust tension at that screw in front/bottom of the grip? If it might need replacement I figured I'd get one and have it ready before proceeding.

Do any of you grind your own hollow ground screw drivers? I have a tool I made for setting the recoil slide spring.

I would bet the farm this gun has never been disassembled. I'll probably use Hoppe's oil or CLP on the internals.

Anything else I need to be aware of? Here she is:

 

[Alk8944]

The best rebound spring tool it simply a #0 Phillips screwdriver. Simply put the pointed end in the center of the spring, align one flute with the rebound slide stud when compressing the spring and push down and hold when removing the screwdriver. I'll bet this works better than the tool you made, or any of the special tools available commercially.

 

[SW CQB 45]

I would bet the farm this gun has never been disassembled. I'll probably use Hoppe's oil or CLP on the internals.

Anything else I need to be aware of?

In years past, I have had revolvers that I had not messed with in years where the lube will solidify and would function very sluggish. a simple cleaning was the fix.

 

[stansdds]

Do K Frame main springs ever need replaced, or do you just adjust tension at that screw in front/bottom of the grip? If it might need replacement I figured I'd get one and have it ready before proceeding.


I would bet the farm this gun has never been disassembled. I'll probably use Hoppe's oil or CLP on the internals.

:

The strain screw is not for adjusting the trigger pull weight. The strain screw is only to be loosened in order to remove tension from the main spring so that the spring can be removed from the revolver. The strain screw must be fully tightened in order for the spring to provide enough energy for the hammer to ignite primers.

As for cleaning and lubricating the lock work, yes, a thorough cleaning can eliminate issues caused by old, dirty, gummy lubricant. Once clean, lubricate very lightly with a light oil. Synthetic motor oil works as will high quality oils designed for firearms. I'm not a huge fan of CLP. Many will argue that it is perfect for cleaning and lubricating, but I see it as a jack of all trades, which means it is a master of none.

 

[SW CQB 45]

As for cleaning and lubricating the lock work, yes, a thorough cleaning can eliminate issues caused by old, dirty, gummy lubricant. Once clean, lubricate very lightly with a light oil. Synthetic motor oil works as will high quality oils designed for firearms. I'm not a huge fan of CLP. Many will argue that it is perfect for cleaning and lubricating, but I see it as a jack of all trades, which means it is a master of none.

In the 80s and 90s, my dad and I would use the **** out of Rig grease to lube internals of our revolvers.

I think in a years' time or so, it had to be cleaned out as it would get gummy. Maybe we used too much.

 

[max503]

The best rebound spring tool it simply a #0 Phillips screwdriver. Simply put the pointed end in the center of the spring, align one flute with the rebound slide stud when compressing the spring and push down and hold when removing the screwdriver. I'll bet this works better than the tool you made, or any of the special tools available commercially.

Thanks I'll try that.

 

[Nightowl]

Some Pachmeyer grips attachment bold would impinge on the mainspring, too! But,it sounds like the mainspring strain screw has backed out.

 

[max503]

Some Pachmeyer grips attachment bold would impinge on the mainspring, too! But,it sounds like the mainspring strain screw has backed out.

The wood grips are on it.
We'll see how it does with a good cleaning.

 

[Engine49guy]

Only thing to add is that be warned storing a revolver with rubber grips can trap moisture under them causing rust.

 

[Gunsquirrel]

Hello. Over the years I've disassembled/assembled my S&W's. I don't have a lot of them.
Took my 1950's era Model 18 out yesterday and it had light primer strikes in DA mode. Average one/cylinder full. SA was fine.
Do K Frame main springs ever need replaced, or do you just adjust tension at that screw in front/bottom of the grip? If it might need replacement I figured I'd get one and have it ready before proceeding.

Do any of you grind your own hollow ground screw drivers? I have a tool I made for setting the recoil slide spring.

I would bet the farm this gun has never been disassembled. I'll probably use Hoppe's oil or CLP on the internals.

Anything else I need to be aware of? Here she is:

Now this gun had never been cleaned before..but it is now!!

 

[.38SuperMan]

Now this gun had never been cleaned before..but it is now!!

I picked up two Smiths yesterday at a LGS. The first is a model 34-1 2” that was the dirtiest gun externally that I’ve ever seen. Do folks never clean their guns? Anyway internally it was in ok shape but I tore it down, scrubbed it thoroughly with solvent and sparingly oiled it.

My second acquisition is a pre model 30 snub nose on an I frame dating to around 1951-52. Internally years of oil, dirt and moisture made a real mess. I tore it down, cleaned up some surface rust and scraped and scrubbed the parts to remove the jelly like dirt and grease. I’m actually amazed after looking inside that the action even worked. After the thorough cleaning I did a little lube with Hoppy’s oil and CLP. The action is as smooth as glass now.

The worst I ever saw was an unfired Colt Cobra from 1953. The action was so gummed up it wouldn’t even function. Basically I fluffed it over and over with brake cleaner then opened it up and went to work. Now it’s one of the best actions I own.

I understand most gun oils are mineral oil and suspect Hoppy’s to be also. I even think there’s a good chance CLP is as well. Oils are great solvents for dirt and old lube. Over the 50 plus years I’ve been cleaning guns I’ve use primarily Hoppy’s 9, a tooth brush, cloth patches, bronze brush and an oil like Hoppy’s or CLP with no issues at all.

 

[bobsguns]

Hello.

Do any of you grind your own hollow ground screw drivers? I have a tool I made for setting the recoil slide spring.

Got this from Midway. Every size I'll ever need, IMO. All hollow ground.

 

[Bald1]

MAX, that model 18 is beyond repair. But I’ll buy it off you for scrap.

 

[max503]

The strain screw is not for adjusting the trigger pull weight. The strain screw is only to be loosened in order to remove tension from the main spring so that the spring can be removed from the revolver. The strain screw must be fully tightened in order for the spring to provide enough energy for the hammer to ignite primers.

As for cleaning and lubricating the lock work, yes, a thorough cleaning can eliminate issues caused by old, dirty, gummy lubricant. Once clean, lubricate very lightly with a light oil. Synthetic motor oil works as will high quality oils designed for firearms. I'm not a huge fan of CLP. Many will argue that it is perfect for cleaning and lubricating, but I see it as a jack of all trades, which means it is a master of none.

I removed the sideplate and discovered two things; The action is not overly gummed up, but it can use a cleaning so it will get one.
The strain screw is fully seated. That leaves me to believe it is weak from age so I have ordered another from Wolff Springs. The gun was made in 1958, I believe.

 

[Dvus]

max503, are the rounds hard to seat fully into the chambers? Many of these Smiths had tight chambers, and ANY dirt, bullet lube or fouling can make it hard to get the cartridge rim fully seated against the cylinder, causing the issue you describe. The firing pin strikes the case rim and instead of firing the cartridge, it just drives it deeper in the chamber, and then the next strike will fire it. A deep cleaning of the cylinder may correct this, but touching up the chambers with a finish reamer will do wonders for your gun. Especially if you also have sticky extraction.

 

[3/4Flap]

Now this gun had never been cleaned before..but it is now!!

You forgot to tell us it was a Khe Sanh battlefield pickup.