Chino74
Member
I cut back the barrel on my old REM model 11 shotgun to 18.5+., now I need to reblue the end of the barrel. Any recommendations on what to buy? I'm not worried about a perfect match just some blueing that will hold. Thanks in advance.
Recommended blueing product for barrel end
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OP
Chino74
Member
I'll check those out, thanks!
ACORN
Member
Oxpho. I think I've seen it Amazon too.
For something found locally, the Birchwood - Casey Super Blue creme is easy to use and will provide color. Oxpho Blue if you want to order something.
Make sure you thoroughly clean and degrease the area to be cold blued. It helps to use a hair drier or heat gun to warm the metal, but do not get it really hot. The use of heat is simply to drive away moisture trapped on the surface of the metal. You can also use a propane torch, sweeping the flame across the area until you no longer see the moisture evaporating from the surface. Remember, you don't want the metal real hot, you just want to rid it of moisture.
Make sure you thoroughly clean and degrease the area to be cold blued. It helps to use a hair drier or heat gun to warm the metal, but do not get it really hot. The use of heat is simply to drive away moisture trapped on the surface of the metal. You can also use a propane torch, sweeping the flame across the area until you no longer see the moisture evaporating from the surface. Remember, you don't want the metal real hot, you just want to rid it of moisture.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
The Brownell's Oxpho Blue, way outlasts Birchwood-Casey's Super Blue.
I use to Parkerized the 45's I built (after sandblasting white) and then cold blue the Parkerizing while it was still warm. Made a BLACK finish that has lasted 25 years on my personal 1911. I only use Oxpho Blue!
Ivan
I use to Parkerized the 45's I built (after sandblasting white) and then cold blue the Parkerizing while it was still warm. Made a BLACK finish that has lasted 25 years on my personal 1911. I only use Oxpho Blue!
Ivan
tenntex32
Member
I eventually went this route with my minor reblue touch-up needs as the stuff I tried from the local stores just did not have the staying power no matter what method I used for application.
I've had my small bottle of Oxpho Blue for a number of years now as it only get used very infrequently, but it has stayed put much better than any other cold blue I have ever used. But then again I only use it for minor touch ups and such.
I wonder if another product has now replaced it as the cold blue go-to durability wise?
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DWalt
Member
I have always used acetone or MEK to degrease metal prior to using cold blue. I generally use the Oxypho, but I can't say it is all that much better than Birchwood Casey. Long ago I used a cold blue called .44-40 which was very good. I think it is still on the market.
mckenney99
Member
I will go along with the others that have recommended Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. However I have also found that the results you get with each product will depend on the steel that is being treated. I have had good luck with Oxpho-Blue and with BROWNELLS - FORMULA 44/40® INSTANT GUN BLUE.
I also have found that surface prep is critical. I degrease the area with a good solvent, then heat the area with a propane torch or heat gun then degrease again. The heat tends to bring any remaining oil/moisture to the surface for better removal. The area is heated again but not hot and then apply your selected bluing according to the directions.
A co-worker bought the ugliest/rustiest Ithaca M37 with cut off barrel I have ever seen. Apparently it had been stored in a car trunk under the spare tire for several years. I took the shotgun down as far as I could and glass beaded the entire outer surface in my blast cabinet. I got all the rust off but he now had a naked M37. Guy went to work heating and degeasing it in several steps and then started working on it with Brownell's Oxpho-Blue paste. He took most of the day heating and applying and then re-heating and reapplying several coates. When it was done, possibly due to the type of steel in that M37, the entire outer surface was a nice matte black and the finish seem to hold up well.
I also have found that surface prep is critical. I degrease the area with a good solvent, then heat the area with a propane torch or heat gun then degrease again. The heat tends to bring any remaining oil/moisture to the surface for better removal. The area is heated again but not hot and then apply your selected bluing according to the directions.
A co-worker bought the ugliest/rustiest Ithaca M37 with cut off barrel I have ever seen. Apparently it had been stored in a car trunk under the spare tire for several years. I took the shotgun down as far as I could and glass beaded the entire outer surface in my blast cabinet. I got all the rust off but he now had a naked M37. Guy went to work heating and degeasing it in several steps and then started working on it with Brownell's Oxpho-Blue paste. He took most of the day heating and applying and then re-heating and reapplying several coates. When it was done, possibly due to the type of steel in that M37, the entire outer surface was a nice matte black and the finish seem to hold up well.
OLDSTER
Member
Brownells OXPHO-Blue.
Is it just the front edge of the muzzle that is now 'in the white'?
If so just polish that and leave it as is. No need to blue that crowned edge.
They were usually left in the white when bbl's were rust blued. They look nice that way anytime.
If there are scratches and new polish marks further back from the muzzle, any of the above techniques and products will work fairly well.
Sometimes you get a near perfect match,,then the next job will leave you wondering what you did wrong to make it come out green.
Colt blues work usually work best on a lightly beadblasted surface as there is no polish shine to it and plenty of extra surface to absorb the color and no light bounce back.
I usually just quick rust blue any small stuff like this on the stove top
If so just polish that and leave it as is. No need to blue that crowned edge.
They were usually left in the white when bbl's were rust blued. They look nice that way anytime.
If there are scratches and new polish marks further back from the muzzle, any of the above techniques and products will work fairly well.
Sometimes you get a near perfect match,,then the next job will leave you wondering what you did wrong to make it come out green.
Colt blues work usually work best on a lightly beadblasted surface as there is no polish shine to it and plenty of extra surface to absorb the color and no light bounce back.
I usually just quick rust blue any small stuff like this on the stove top
On single shotgun barrel I would heat with propane torch. Keep torch moving in circular pattern, when heats up spray with WD. It ain't blue but it discolors it and is more durable than cold blue. There ain't much to blue on cut off shotgun barrel anywho.
OP
Chino74
Member
Thanks all. Ya it's just the barrel end plus a small area with some white inside the barrel end area. Not much bluing needed. I might try to blue it or maybe try the WD technique to put some color on the end. I live in an arid desert environment so rust is not really a factor in this, it's more cosmetic.
The recommendations you received are all good. I have used most of them at one time or another. My preference now is Van's Blue. It works quite well.
Honestly, the differences won't be much. Why not find a local gun shop or collector that has some on the shelf and get it done without spending $$ on a product you will likely not use again. Further that person likely has the experience to do you a bang-up job on the first try.
Honestly, the differences won't be much. Why not find a local gun shop or collector that has some on the shelf and get it done without spending $$ on a product you will likely not use again. Further that person likely has the experience to do you a bang-up job on the first try.
DWalt
Member
Not quite on topic, but I have found that different steels take cold blue differently. The worst time I ever had was a not-too-old H&R single shot 20 gauge, I tried three different brands of cold blue on the receiver, and none of them took very well, even after polishing and de-greasing. Best I could get was sort of a disappointing darkish gray color.
kbm6893
Member
Yep. I wouldn't waste my time with anything else. I have the liquid version and it touched up an old model 10 so well that you had to really look for it to see the touch up. I know they have a gel version but never used that. Just make sure you thoroughly clean and degrease the area to be touched up first with alcohol or mineral spirits. YouTube has some great videos on it.
Does Oxpho Blue work on alloy metals or just steel? I'd like to touch up a couple Berettas' frames. That stuff in the blue plastic bottle only works on steel...it's Birchwood-Casey.
Bluing solutions, both cold and hot, only work on carbon steel, they will not blue stainless steel or aluminum.
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