Model 10-7 4” HB & Round Butt?

Ron In MD

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Did S&W make the Model 10-7 with a 4” HB and Round Butt?
Or does this sound like something someone “created/customized” ?

I have searched the Internet and have come to the conclusion that, the
M10-7 only came with the Pencil Barrel and a Square Butt.
The AVN serial number puts the manufacturer date at 1987.

I have been known to be wrong in some of my assessments.

Thanks.
 
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A model 10-7 with a RB grip frame, very possible. With the 4" bull barrel of the model 10-6 or -8, unlikely. If you see one. note how the contour of the forward upper frame and the barrel rear don't line up; functionally it works but it looks funny.
 
A model 10-7 with a RB grip frame, very possible. With the 4" bull barrel of the model 10-6 or -8, unlikely. If you see one. note how the contour of the forward upper frame and the barrel rear don't line up; functionally it works but it looks funny.

Ah, I thought that the fit didn’t look right (see attached picture).
My first thought was that it had been re-barreled.

Thanks.
 

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Yes, with this barrel/frame combination the top rib of the bull barrel sticks out above the tapered frame. Looks even funnier in person. :)

And with this, it raises the front sight, what, 1/16” ?
Which means that the front sight may have to be filed some to change point of aim.
 
Hi all!

My 64-5 has a round butt. It was made in the 80's as well.
I believe that S&W had been making the Model 10's & the Stainless equivalents with round butt's at that time.
Hope this helps.


Hawk

Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk
 
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The original 4” model 64 had the tapered barrel like the model 10-7; the model 64-5 has the bull barrel like the one in the photo above, except of course in stainless.
 
Suspiciously looks like one of the J&G gunsmiths specials that some one fitted with a heavy barrel.

In which case it would have a CAI import Mark.
Does anyone know where the import Mark/information is located on the revolver?

Is there any diminished value if this is the case?

Thanks.
 
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The import markings are just in front of the trigger guard. On the one I bought and refinished I was able to completely polish out those marks before re-bluing.
The serial # on the one I bought started with AVS----. Just so some one doesn't get legal on me, I didn't polish out or change the original serial number.
I put a 4" heavy barrel on mine and it has the same frame/barrel size difference.
It was a fun project and I hope this helps.
 
excerpt:

I put a 4" heavy barrel on mine and it has the same frame/barrel size difference.

Do you mean that yours has, " the same frame/barrel size" as the picture that I posted, OR does yours match up with no seeable difference?

Thanks.
 
Barrel and frame difference is the same as yours. If I wasn't so tech challenged, I would send you a pic. But the are definitely the same with the barrel being a little higher that the frame.
 
Barrel and frame difference is the same as yours. If I wasn't so tech challenged, I would send you a pic. But the are definitely the same with the barrel being a little higher that the frame.

Does that difference affect the point of aim, did you have to file the front sight?

Thanks.
 
Not really, I have a model 64 with the 4" heavy barrel. I haven't shot them side by side. So it's hard to really give you to much of an opinion.
The model 10-7 must have the barrel fitted correctly (a gunsmiths job if your not familiar and have tools to do the job yourself) with the right barrel cylinder gap and head space gap and forcing cone cutting tool and gauge to make sure it's within spec, the barrel must not be canted. These things will definitely effect accuracy if not done correctly. Not to mention action wrench and barrel wrench. I used my lathe to get the barrel setback done correctly. Also a range rod to check the barrel cylinder alignment. This doesn't mention any work that might have to do on the action parts or re-bluing. So you can see how the price of a $179.00 gun can go up and up without having the tools, barrel and experience to do the job.
I never thought of the J&G gun as being any more than just an all around truck gun in which I have about $250.00 and a lot of time in. No matter how good of polish job you do you are not going to get out all of the pits and I see some of the same on your crane.
It still was a fun project!
If I sold it which I don't plan to, I would tell the buyer it's history and not try to pass it off as some rare model 10!
 
It’s not my gun, it is one that I have/had an interest in.
I did notice the metal imperfections, and thought that it is a “gunsmith” special. It has been reblued and has had a trigger job according to the seller.
My concern is with the 4” barrel installation, and whether it was done correctly. The possibility of the barrel be canted is a concern.
Although from the sellers website they do extensive work on many types of firearms.

I do agree that it appears to be an J&G imported frame that had been worked on.

Thanks.
 
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Does that difference affect the point of aim, did you have to file the front sight?

Thanks.

Ron, the height of the sight on the tapered and the heavy barrels is pretty much the same. Don't forget, you aren't measuring from the top of the barrel but from the center of the bore instead. So if you replaced a tapered barrel with a heavy, your POI should be the same.
 
I’m one of those....Love round butt K’s, can’t adjust to square butts. A model 10 or 64 with a round butt and 4” tapered barrel would be the bees knees for me.
 
I’m one of those....Love round butt K’s, can’t adjust to square butts. A model 10 or 64 with a round butt and 4” tapered barrel would be the bees knees for me.
I don't remember where I've seen those (I'm lucky to remember the directions to my bathroom :confused: ) but I know they're out there. A good substitute? How about one of those J&G frames (which began life as 2" RBs) and pick up a tapered barrel online. I have such a combo, with a 5" tapered, in the "queue" to be put together by my gunsmith this year. If there's any interest, I'll soft-fit it and post some photos.
 
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