Had to salvage a rusted 28-2

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I have to share this with the members.
I was talking to a friend of mine and he asked if I would be interested in an old revolver that was his, recently passed, dads.
He said that it was rusty, as it was under his bed for years. I said to bring it in and I would look at it. So he brings a 28-2 6" with no grips, and serial number of S 235xxx. (1964) The side plate is badly rusted above the trigger and you cant see the screw. The left side looked new. Some pitting on the frame and right side of barrel. I was a bit hesitant but I asked how much. After he said $200 I grabbed it because the timing on It was perfect.
I ordered a used side plate w/screws with the correct size logo. After soaking it for months and then dremeling the rust around the screw so I could see the slot, took a hammer and hit the back of the screwdriver and it turned!
Now with the side plate off much to my surprise the inside was perfect. The recoil plate had NO marks on it. Had it even been fired? Don't think so. The barrel was very clean and sharp.
After fitting the side plate, with the new screws, I gave it a bath with a satin black paint. Added the grips from a member here, and just got a used Safariland #28 holster for it. So, now, for a total of just over $300 I now have a great shooter. How great? Cloverleafs at 25 yards with cast 158 SWC's.

It may not look perfect, but, I HAD to salvage it. Don't you agree?
 

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I often wonder about switching side plates. How can they be one size fits many? Also, I can never get a secure fit with holsters that are so top heavy. They insist on turning upside down while wearing them. What's the secret?
 
The great thing about conventional paint is that is so easily removed if you tire of it or want another finish.

You did a good job bringing that 28 back into service.
 
Looks like it was pretty badly rusted. The odds of finding a replacement side plate for a revolver that drops in and has a perfect fit are pretty low. S&W would build each revolver with its side plate, the edges of the plate would be swaged to match the frame cut out and then the side of the revolver was finish machined, the end result being a very precise joint between the plate and the frame and the two would be flush.
 
Bulletslap, you are correct about the paint. I thought about having the 28 bead blasted and parked as i have seen a M10 done that way. Could/would hide some of the pits. I liked it. I may still do that.

Bead blasting and parkerizing will work nicely. Have done that to a couple of pistols, most notably a Colt M1903 Pocket. Looked great, bought it for $125 and then Bead blasted and parked, sold it for $450. Looked very good.
 
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My neighbor across the street, a retired pharmacist, once showed me his Colt Python. Probably the rustiest gun I've ever seen. He's a fisherman and left it laying in the bottom of a tackle box. I wanted to cry when I saw it. Nice save on the 28, swrevo! I have a 6" S series 28-2 myself. They are the best! :)
 
With a very pitted firearm, bead blasting and parkerizing (phospating) is a good way to give it a finish that is durable and will help to hide the pits. Keep the phosphate finish well oiled and it will prove to be a very corrosion resistant finish. Manganese phosphating produces a dark grey to almost black finish.
 
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