Need help determining if there is an issue with my new shield plus or if its just me. I can sometimes pull the trigger without touching the safety blade in the middle of the trigger and the gun will still fire. this happens mostly if i hold the gun pointed up. its as if there is not enough spring pressure in that little safety blade to have it pop back out enough and not enough of that tab on the safety blade is catching the frame. if anyone else has time, can you check your plus for me? hope i explained that right.
Shield Plus trigger safety
- Thread starter edlloyd
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Fulton722
Member
The orientation of your pistol (holding it vertically or horizontally) should not have any effect on whether the trigger safety performs as designed. Sounds like you need to send it back to S&W. Call them and explain your problem to get a pre-paid shipping label (FREE).
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here is a short clip of what is happening to mine.
Dropbox - 2021-05-29 16.19.16.mp4 - Simplify your life
Dropbox - 2021-05-29 16.19.16.mp4 - Simplify your life
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Just took a look at my Shield Plus, and didn't have that issue.
Does the lower trigger (safety blade) have good resistance and springiness when you press on it and let go? If not, maybe the plastic tip that gives it resistance is broken.
If the resistance is OK, does the plastic tip on the back of the lower trigger stick out far enough to make contact with the frame? If you used your finger nails to move the upper trigger without touching the lower trigger (safety blade), does that plastic tip make good contact? If not, maybe that little tip got damaged and shortened. Or maybe the trigger assembly isn't seated very well inside the frame. I'll post some pictures.
This is the trigger for the Shield 2.0, should be similar except in the Plus the lower trigger (2) sits inside the middle of the upper trigger (1), instead of hanging below. There is a tiny pin (3) that holds them together. The red rectangle is the little piece of plastic that rotates forward and resists the lower trigger from rotating backwards, with the pin acting as a as a fulcrum. The blue rectangle is the little plastic tip that catches the frame if the lower trigger doesn't rotate.
OK i just saw your vid
Does the lower trigger (safety blade) have good resistance and springiness when you press on it and let go? If not, maybe the plastic tip that gives it resistance is broken.
If the resistance is OK, does the plastic tip on the back of the lower trigger stick out far enough to make contact with the frame? If you used your finger nails to move the upper trigger without touching the lower trigger (safety blade), does that plastic tip make good contact? If not, maybe that little tip got damaged and shortened. Or maybe the trigger assembly isn't seated very well inside the frame. I'll post some pictures.
This is the trigger for the Shield 2.0, should be similar except in the Plus the lower trigger (2) sits inside the middle of the upper trigger (1), instead of hanging below. There is a tiny pin (3) that holds them together. The red rectangle is the little piece of plastic that rotates forward and resists the lower trigger from rotating backwards, with the pin acting as a as a fulcrum. The blue rectangle is the little plastic tip that catches the frame if the lower trigger doesn't rotate.
OK i just saw your vid
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there is no upper and lower trigger. the plus has a blade like the glocks now. the tab seems fine. i think the problem is the spring inside the trigger. if i push the blade in, it doesn't spring back. i can feel some tension but very very very little
Yes, but the trigger assembly of the Plus should still work very similarly as the 2.0. I haven't disassembled the Plus trigger yet, but I think the the changes are mainly moving the lower into the upper, swinging from inside the middle instead of from below. The 1 small pin, and the location of the 2 plastic tips on the lower should be similar. The bigger pin should be connecting the upper with the trigger bar.
I'm not sure if they replaced the plastic tip with a metal spring for resistance though. I'm actually curious and am going to take a look now.
If you use 1 finger nail to pull back the outer trigger, and 1 finger nail to pull forward the inner trigger at the same time, does the plastic tip at the rear of the inner trigger have good contact with the frame? I added a picture of mine, circled in blue.
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![IMG_20210529_174733383[1].jpg](https://cdn.smith-wessonforum.com/attachments/424/424778-af17e63bc89b80e303336b537d07e6e7.jpg?hash=19qg9M_6Fj)
it makes great contact like in your photo if i pull the safety blade forward. the problem is, if i push it in like when firing, it doesn't (spring) back out. it does ever so slightly but not far enough for that tab to make contact with the frame again. hope that makes sense.
I'm guessing the thing that keeps the middle blade propped forward is damaged. Not sure if it's a metal spring or the typical plastic tab in the Shield Plus.
But like Fulton722 said, S&W customer service should email you a free FedEx shipping label for repairs. Might take 3-4 weeks turnaround time, though.
(USA) 1-800-331-0852
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-5:00PM Eastern Time
I found a picture of a disassembled Glock trigger. The middle paddle does use a piece of plastic for resistance, circled in red. Blue is the part that catches the frame.
But like Fulton722 said, S&W customer service should email you a free FedEx shipping label for repairs. Might take 3-4 weeks turnaround time, though.
(USA) 1-800-331-0852
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-5:00PM Eastern Time
I found a picture of a disassembled Glock trigger. The middle paddle does use a piece of plastic for resistance, circled in red. Blue is the part that catches the frame.
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I have discovered one thing. i let it sit for a while last night after getting frustrated. went back to it and the blade was working fine. after dry firing a few times and working the trigger it would start to fail again. let it sit over night and this morning just checked and its working fine again. it seems that that piece that keeps the tension is weak/damaged/out of spec or something. i would not carry this gun of course in this condition, but my model does have a manual safety which works 100% so debating whether to send it in or not. what do you all think?
If you don't want get into any troubles, especially if you want to carry it, send it back to S&W.
It may happen (God forbids, never) that you have to defend yourself, your gun will be under investigation. Whatever is wrong with it - it is on you...
SchemaEnigma
Member
The manual safety is to prevent unintentional trigger pulls.
The trigger safety is to prevent accidental discharge if you drop the weapon.
Different purpose.
Send it in.
Also, be sure to tell them plainly that it works fine after being unused for awhile, but then fails after repeated use. You don't want the technician to try it a couple of times and declare "no fault found."
You guys are not going to believe what I found to be the problem.
Letting the plus and any other gun for that matter with a trigger blade safety sit in one of these type stands was putting constant pressure on that blade. I had the plus there for at least a week like that. would be like holding in the trigger for a week straight. Thats why letting it sit for a while fixed it. i havent had it back on those stands since and it hasn't failed once.
only me.....LOL
Letting the plus and any other gun for that matter with a trigger blade safety sit in one of these type stands was putting constant pressure on that blade. I had the plus there for at least a week like that. would be like holding in the trigger for a week straight. Thats why letting it sit for a while fixed it. i havent had it back on those stands since and it hasn't failed once.
only me.....LOL
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If the problem went away after discontinuing use of that stand, I guess all is good. But if you find that the loss of springiness in the blade reappears, might want to get it addressed. Like Schema said, it helps with drop safety.
Did you say the same thing happened to some of your other guns?
cowboydave
Member
Good to know, thanks
Paul in Nevada
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I would still expect a spring that's designed to operate over 10's of thousands of trigger pulls to hold tension after being compressed for a week.
SchemaEnigma
Member
Yeah, me, too.
Seems like the design / materials selection was inadequate to purpose.
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